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January 26, 2010

Wine Starting Wednesday & Beyond

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If our wonderful Sacramento area weather has you chomping at the bit, chomp no more! There are a handful of Wednesday wine events to immerse yourself into for pleasure and great education. Then look beyond to the weekend for more wine.

Unified Wine & Grape Symposium

January 26th through the 29th
Sacramento Convention Center
Highlight: Regional Wine Tasting, Wednesday, January 27th, 4:00 to 6:00 p.m.
Visit www.unifiedsymposium.org for more information.

Wednesday Wine at 58 Degrees & Holding Co.
Five tastes for $10, along with a list of available happy hour foods
5:00 – 8:00 p.m.
1217 18th Street, Sacramento

WOW - Wine on Wednesday at L Lounge
6:00 – 8:00 p.m.
Five tastes for $10
1801 L Street, Sacramento

Wednesday Night Wine Tasting – Pinot Noir
Back Wine Bar

$5 per person and 25% off all food
2507 Blue Ravine Road, Folsom, CA


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Barrel Tasting Weekend in El Dorado County featuring 21 wineries
January 30 – 31
11:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.
Highlight: Active participation in learning about wine.

According to Jolaine Collins, EL Dorado Winery Association public relations director, "This year many of our vintners are adding new approaches to help wine lovers of all levels discover the nuances of what makes a great wine. For instance, Lava Cap is showing three estate zinfandels, made from grapes grown in different microclimates. Tasters can discern the nuances by comparing each barrel sample."

Perry Creek has arranged a vertical tasting of their estate Zinfandel from 2005, their first crush, to 2008 which is still developing in the barrel.

In addition to barrel sampling a 2008 Syrah and 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon from Madrona, attendees can try their hand at blending the two for a Shiraz/Cabernet cuvee.

Several other wineries, are also offering participatory educational options so pick your favorite(s) and head up the hill!

Weekend pass: $25
Friends 4 pack: Buy 4 tickets for the price of 3
Sunday only: $20
Designated drivers: $5

Participating wineries: Auriga Cellars, Busby Cellars, Colibri Ridge, Crystal Basin, Fenton Herriott, Fitzpatrick, David Girard, Gold Hill, Granite Springs, Holly’s Hill, Illuminare, Jodar, Latcham, Lava Cap, Madroña, Miraflores, Mount Aukum, Narrow Gate, ParaVi, Perry Creek, Sierra Vista, and Single Leaf.

For tickets, event details, winery highlights and a map of the region, go to: www.ElDoradoWines.org

November 18, 2009

Navagating to Nekeas in the Navarra

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So just what is Nekeas anyway? A winery making excellent wines in the Navarra region of Spain.

Although I’m home now, not continuing to share more of my amazing adventures would be withholding great information. Who knows when one may decide to venture off to Northwest Spain!

To give a quick overview of the Navarra, it experiences climatic effects from both the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea, and has 15,000 hectares (roughly 38 acres) in five sub-regions: Valdizerbe, Baja Montana, Ribera Baja, Ribera Alta and Terra Estella. Temperatures (from 82∞ Fahrenheit in summer to 28 in winter), soil and rainfall differ markedly throughout these areas.

Navarra DO (Designation of Origin) regulations permit using 11 grape varieties: garnacha (grenache), tempranillo, mazuelo (carignan), graciano, cabernet sauvignon and merlot for reds and rosados (rosés), and viura (macabeo), chardonnay, muscat, grenache blanc and malvasia for whites. Red grapes cover 95% of the area.

I ventured to Bodegas Nekeas in the northern most region who’s grapes are also grown in the northern most area of Navarra. Nekeas is a cooperative formed by a few families who had vineyards and were separately making wine in the Valley. They export a large majority of their wine under both the Nekeas and Vega Sindoa labels. The US exporter with whom they worked thought the name “Nekeas” sounded too Greek-like and requested they change the name for the US market. “Vega Sindoa” is the name of the river that runs through the Nekeas Valley just below the winery.

We were there mid-September and harvest was just around the corner. Greeted by the marketing person and given an overview of the operation, she turned us over to winemaker Concha Vecino, as Concha had a free moment.

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Concha told us it’s her favorite time of the year as she spends mornings riding her bicycle through the vineyards taking grape samples to monitor ripeness. She invited us into her lab
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and shared her morning samples.

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We tasted a whole grape, then the skins alone without any pulp because grape skins contain many flavor components including tannins. You can have ripe grapes but unripe tannins!

This particular day, although the brix (grape sugar) from one vineyard was where she wanted it, the grape skins were not. The skins were definitely bitter.

For those interested, tannins are organic compounds that react with proteins and other chemicals. They are good because they impart flavors, round out red wines and give them a feeling of weight in your mouth. They’re found in grape skins and seeds, and are also present in other plant materials like wood and some fruits. Oak wine barrels can also be an additional source of tannins.

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We tasted, talked and laughed with Concha for over an hour. What an amazing experience! It’s not everyday you get to spend time with a winemaker in her / his lab tasting grape samples and learning first hand! Nekeas wines are quality, approachable, tasty and very reasonably priced. I’ll be seeking them out with a smile on my face and remembering my morning with Concha.

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El Chaparral is the name of their old vine Grenache vineyard.

October 26, 2009

Navarra Wine, Historic Town: Bodegas Irache and Estella

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Bodegas Irache is located in Ayegui, two kilometres from Estella. It was established in 1891 however it’s vineyards go back to the 12th century. The Monestary de Irache, also 12th century, is literally right next to the winery. The monestary was the first hospital for pilgrims on the Way to Compostela.

Irache built a new facility within the current structure which was inaugurated in 1991. This new aging hall, which holds 10,000 oak casks and is quite impressive, I must say!

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Conchi, the bodega's Export Manager greeted us. She speaks English wonderfully thus handles most tours. Lively, fun loving and passionate about the bodega’s wine and history, she is a wealth of information.

The first stop was the wine museum in the older part of the bodega. Here wine buffs will love seeing old tools and objects related to wine making, as well as a centenary cellar with the bodega’s best vintages. You'll also see the “Wine Fountain”, a little tap in the back outside wall of the building where those walking to Compostela can help themselves to a cup of wine (which is supplied au-gratis by the winery's gracious owner Jesús Santesteban, whom we got to meet) or water.

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The road to Compostela passes conveniently right next to the winery. To capture a fun tour moment, call someone you know and ask them to log onto “The Wine Fountain” on the bodega’s website. Next, have them click on the webcam and you can wave to them live from the fountain.

Impressive were the huge stainless tanks (23 in all) which hold 70,000 liters of liquid.

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Irache’s vineyards include the PRADO DE IRACHE estate. The grapes of this vineyard are used to make the Prado Irache wine, a single-estate, limited-production wine marketed in numbered bottles. Made with grapes painstakingly selected, the wine shows unmistakable ties with it’s terroir. The Prado Irache is only made from vintages achieving the desired quality.

In total, they make about 13 different wines under four labels, including the multiple medal winner GRAN IRACHE CRIANZA. This wine is a blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and aged in oak casks. Blackberries invite you to enjoy it’s aromas while dark ripe cherries marked with toast, friendly but firm tannins and a long finish tempt you to take another sip. Better yet, we bought a bottle and had it with dinner! Gran Irache Crianza is a perfect example of quality, value and taste.

On a side note, Irache has an organic project producing a red wine called FUENTE CERRADA.

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Next up, Estella, located in the Navarre wine region of northern Spain and south west of Pamplona, and also on the Pilgrimage Route to Santiago de Compostela. A medieval Roman town (Estella (Spanish) or Lizarra (Basque)) a stones throw away from Irache and what an inviting town it was! Small but active with life, artisan foods and a genuine weekly market in the Plaza De San Martin. Next up, Estella; a medieval Roman town (Estella (Spanish) or Lizarra (Basque)) a stones throw from Irache and what an inviting town it was! Small but active with life, artisan foods and a genuine weekly market in the Plaza De San Martin.

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October 19, 2009

Wine, Almonds and Hiking in Spain

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Hiking in Spain is absolutely beautiful. In addition to our food and wine adventures this trip, we’ve gone on several hikes. Starting in Barcelona, you’ve got Montserrat, a short train ride from the city. From this monastery dating back a few hundred years, (who’s counting centuries!) you have magnificent views of the surrounding area. Depending on your preference, you can take an easy stroll or a long, strenuous hike lasting hours, the latter, our choice.

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You can also wonder through the city to various sights, i.e., Sagarada Familia and parks (Park
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which we did daily. Montjuic is a excellent choice if you want to remain in the city but need a break from it’s hussel and bussel. Views of the city, beach and port are staggering from Montjuik.

Next, you’ve got the “GR” (Grand Randonee) hiking trails.

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Throughout Europe, they are marked with a red and white stripe. We also came upon a second local trail system in the Priorat wine region marked with a yellow and white stripe. Often times the two systems would cross or hook up common trails.

At the tourist office in Falset, the Priorat’s wine hub, you may be greeted by an energetic, late 20-something man who’s mission is to complete the documentation and mapping of the local trails. He’s personally hiked most of them, making sure they are adequately marked.

We wanted to combine wine tasting with hiking thus picked a recommended trail starting in La Vilella Alta.

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Along the way you pass an old Hermitage then drop down into La Vilella Baixa where Buil & Giné winery is located 100 meters off the trail.

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September 30, 2009

Traditional Wine in La Rioja

Established in 1877 and located in the town of Haro, Bodegas Lopez de Heredia is the third oldest bodega (winery) in Rioja, run by the family’s fourth generation, and make wine in a ‘tradional’ method. The visit was fascinating and oh so different from the typical California winery tour (not that I don’t like California wine). For fellow wine buffs, I know you’ll enjoy the following. For those who aren’t (yet), I hope it piques a new or further curiosity of wine!

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So what is traditional?

After harvest, crushing and de-stemming, the juice is put in large wood vats (over 100 years old and each holding around 20,000 liters / just over 5,000 gallons) where fermentation takes place. Natural yeast strains characteristic of Rioja built up on the vat’s insides over the years, thus no need to add yeast to start fermentation. Check this out:
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Once fermentation is completed, the wine is transferred to different old wood vats where malolactic fermentation (ML) takes place. This usually doesn’t happen until the spring when the temperatures get warmer (warm temps are required for ML to take place). Like the old vats for primary fermentation, these second set of vats have a build up of the desired malolactic bacteria, thus the use of cultured bacteria isn’t required.

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Long term aging in old oak barrels occurs next.

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As we walked through the musty smelling caves, it was explained the mold on the walls (and we’re talking massive mold) helps control undesirable bacteria that could contribute to spoilage of the wine. We popped a bottle of reserva that night and noted the cork’s end and wine’s aroma slightly smelled of that must!

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The aging barrels are used for up to 20 years. An interesting point is Heredia has their own on-site cooperage. Because they keep and use barrels so long, they found it necessary to have the capability to repair them in-house. With this comes the ability to build barrels as well.

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They use American oak, which is stacked in pallets to age a few years prior to use. When barrels are at the end of their life, they’re broken down and the staves are used as firewood to toast new barrels.

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September 22, 2009

A Sweet Bodega in Navarra

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We drove to the the southern end of the Navarra wine region to the town of Corella for our 11:30 a.m. tour of Bodegas Camilo Castilla, the oldest winery in this region. They specialize in sweet wine made from the “Muscat de petit grain” grape, a.k.a. small berry Muscat.

The bodega makes four wines with this grape: a young and aged that are fortified and a young and aged natural (non-fortified).

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As I enjoy dessert wines, the older natural style was my focus. Called “Caprichio de Goya”, it is aged a total of seven years.

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Three are spent in old barrels, some of which are up to 100 years old and range in size from 7,000 to 12,000 liters. While in the large barrels, they follow a Solera type system. Each year when it is time to bottle, ¼ of the amount of that years wine is left in the barrel. Then, the current year’s wine is added to top it off. One year is spent in demi-johns and the remaining three in standard barrels.

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The use of demi-johns is rare but this bodega has done it since the beginning. Light oxidizes the wine through the class, developing complexity and concentration. I found it interesting they remain outside on a flat-top roof year long, regardless of the temperature.

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Camilo Castilla is one of only 35 bodegas to produce communion wine (vino de misa). They also produce a dry rose from Granacha (Grenache) named “Pink” to satiate the local desire for a Navarrese Rosato. With upscale labeling and at just 4.20 euro per bottle, it is currently being test marketed in New York.

Another interesting item is they hand label the Caprichio de Goya because the non-standard 375 and 500ml bottle shapes are unstable in their automated bottling line.

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Taste? It entices you to have more with it’s honeysuckle aroma and orangy, caramel and coffee flavors. You don’t really need any dessert with it as it is a dessert all by itself, but we happily enjoyed it with Crema de Catalonia!

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May 8, 2009

Riesling at the Rail Bridge

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A casual symposium is coming our way on Monday, May 18th!

Located at Sacramento's own Rail Bridge Cellars, this workshop is brought to you by wine merchant Donal Smith of Corti Bros., and features three wonderfully talented winemakers; Scott Harvey of Scott Harvey Wines in Napa (Scott also spent several years making wine in Germany), Reggie Hammond of Ventana Vineyards in Monterey County and Brian Kays of Trefethen Family Vineyards in Napa. Each are veterans of numerous harvests of this intriguing varietal: Riesling.

Whether you're already a Riesling fan or just curious, the evening promises to be memorable. Color, Smell, Taste and even the Tactile element of this wine will be discussed, as well as stereotypes, and everything else you wanted to know in a workshop format with Q&A opportunities.

During the evening, you'll taste several samples focusing on California, Germany, Austrailia and Washington. (And you never know, Donal may throw in an Alsace Riesling to sample too!) Light hors dourves will accompany the wine courtesy of the Corti Bros. deli.

Here are the details:

What: Riesling at the Rail Bridge - A tasting/symposium of Riesling Wine
When: May 18TH, 2009, 7:30 PM
Where: Railbridge Cellars: 400 North 16th Street, Sacramento, CA
Reservations: Donal Smith, 916 203-4641, donalswines@yahoo.com
Tariff: $39 - cash or check only please (check made payable to Donal Smith)

Cut off date for reservations is May 14th so don't be shy, give Donal a call and come join us in the cellar!

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