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February 2, 2010

Using the Harvest: SIH-truss

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When someone says “citrus fruit”, the first thing that comes to my mind is the orange. I’ll bet it’s one of the most popular citrus too. But what do you do with oranges and the like if you don’t necessarily like to eat them? (The acid doesn't agree with me.) They love the cooler winter months in warmer climates, and are flourishing at farmer’s markets and in people's yards now. I read up on them to discover their treasures and what they have to offer.

But first, let me share that as I drive around the Sacramento area, I notice the huge number of citrus trees in people's yards. The trees are packed with fruit and still a large number end up rotting on the ground. You try to eat lots and give fruit away but there is still so much fruit. Enter Harvest Sacramento, a volunteer, collaborative effort who will pick and donate your overstock fruit to local food assistance agencies. What better way to use all your extra fruit!

In the Sacramento area we have sweet and loose-skinned sih-truss. While, bitter (or sour) is the third basic variety, I don't think they grow in this area but let me know if you've seen a tree!

Sweet are the most common for both juicing and eating and include the Valencia (best for juicing), Navel (easiest to peel, great to eat), and the lesser know Blood and Cara Cara. When I need orange juice I reach for the Valencia. They are great eating oranges too but due to being a hassle to peel, not as commonly grabbed for this purpose.

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Navels have a blossom end where a tiny embryonic fruit lies imbedded. To some, this resembles a belly-button, thus it’s name. The great thing about Navel oranges is they are seedless. I usually grab this variety to make candied orange peels.

Thinner skinned with reddish streaks throughout it’s flesh, the Blood tends to be a smaller orange. Some say it’s flavor includes a hint of raspberry but you’ll have to eat one and decide for yourself. They’re nice for presentation, as they’ll catch your eye. If a sorbet or dessert calls for oranges, I’m told you won’t be disappointed if you seek one out. They’re becoming more popular to grow in California but have been grown in other parts of the world, including Spain and Italy, for hundreds of years. Their season lasts from late November through early spring.

Loose-skinned oranges include the entire Mandarin family. They earned their name from how easily their skins peel off, often times in one fell swoop. Children of the Mandarin’s include the Tangerine, Clementine, Dancy, Minneola and Satsuma, to name a few. They are less acidic (yeah!), sweeter, and have a flowery aroma.

Bitter oranges are not eaten raw but come to life when cooked into marmalades and sauces. They grew up in Sicily then made their way to other places. Typically in the northern hemisphere, they’re only available in January. The Sevilles is a common variety.

Interesting Facts: The pH level of an orange ranges from 2.5 to 3, depending on the variety, making it as strong in acid as vinegar.

The names Mandarin and Tangerine are often used interchangeably. Although a tangerine is a mandarin orange, not all mandarin oranges are tangerines.

Tangelos are larger than tangerines and are a cross between a tangerine, grapefruit and orange.

The Moro Blood Orange contains large amounts of carotene and anthocyanins, that great antioxidant!

Essential oils from orange peels are used to make a variety of liquors including Cointreau.

And this is the first thing I did with part of the grocery bag full of navel oranges my friend left on my doorstep: Dark Chocolate Orange Biscotti

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December 29, 2009

Using the Harvest: Meyer Lemons

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Limone, Limón, Citrón? Not sure how I got hooked on them but remember my dad telling me I couldn’t eat more than one a day when I was a kid because the acid would eat the enamel off my teeth. My dad loved gardening, hunting, fishing and growing things, thus we always had a big garden and fruit trees, including a Meyer Lemon in our backyard. Oh how I enjoyed hanging with him and putzing around the garden. I was responsible for watering when he went on trips (he was a pilot). I consider myself lucky to have had a dad who treasured growing his own produce.

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Last year I tried marmalade, which didn’t quite set but was a great addition to vinaigrette and dessert sauce. This year I made cake. A Meyer Lemon Cake with Chardonnay Sauce to be exact.

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A recipe caught my eye in a Bonny Doon Vineyard’s newsletter a while back. Most intriguing was the use of olive oil. While I’ve heard of olive oil type cakes, I’d never made one and wanted to know how olive oil would actually taste in a cake.

It wasn’t too sweet and fairly light on it’s own, with subtle flavors of olive oil, but the aroma made me think savory. Conveniently the top had sunk a tad, so I added a thin layer of freshly made quince paste, a.k.a. Membrillo, I’d made the day before. The wine sauce brought it all together. At first I poured a little on top and watched it soak into the cake’s sides. Hum… more to soak, more taste. I settled on a slice in a puddle.

Since I’d polished the Viognier months before and a minimally oaked Chardonnay was open, chardonnay it was.

I always make candied lemon peels (I’ve graduated from eating raw lemons to candied peels which satiate the sweet tooth I inherited from my dad), and have used Meyers but peels from the more common Eureka or Lisbon are thicker, thus may be better to use. I added some to garnish the cake.

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Before the Sugar

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After the Sugar

Here’s the recipe with changes from that newsletter.

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August 4, 2009

Tis’ the Season for Heirloom Tomatoes

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So what the heck is an heirloom anyway?

Heirloom, as in “family heirloom”, is something passed down from generation to generation. As a term, heirloom can be used for any kind of fruit or vegetable that is an old variety, is not genetically modified and isn't a hybrid. There are heirloom melon, beans, cucumbers, etc.

Heirloom tomatoes go way back and are in peak season right now! You can visit your favorite local farmer’s market for a taste of these gems or grab them at many stores.

They’re soft by nature, as they were bred before the invention of the internal combustion engine. Hence, they were never bred firm and thick-skinned for long shipping distances, rough handling and storage.

Tomatoes you find in most supermarkets today, perfect, red and round, are the result of taking these not always so eye appealing, misshapen, cracked, sutured tomatoes (heirlooms) and breeding them to be perfect, pretty and available all year round. Problem is tomato flavor usually takes a back seat as a result of all the breeding.

Many heirloom T's are funny looking. They were born that way. Seriously, they look like they do because they were bred for flavor, nothing else.

I’ve been asked “Which is the sweetest?” I find none are particularly sweet, but they are all very flavorful. They were bred long before the public fell in love with sweetness in everything, including tomatoes.

The great thing is they're all good for many applications because they are all very flavorful. Whether it be sauce, caprese salad, a slice on a burger or just choppin' em up to slather on a baguette, these tomatoes won’t let you down. And if your tummy doesn’t get along well with acidic things, a yellow or white colored tomato may work for you. These colors are less acidic than red or black.

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Lets delve into some of the many varieties…

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May 28, 2009

Spring Onion Tart with Figs and Goat Cheese

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I really like figs and goat cheese (stinker and aged even better), and arugula. I'd gotten a bunch of spring onions at the farmer's market and wanted to do something a little different. This tart, with an almond crust sounded fun so with alterations, it became a light dinner.

I used my last jar of home-made fig jam. Instead of butter, I used Earth Balance to lighten the cholesterol hit. Plus, I don't always like the taste of butter. It has it's place and it's a wonderful addition to things, but I really wanted to taste the almond and other ingredients here. Also, I admit I'm trying to cook heart healthy these days. But for you butter lovers, use the butter because you'll like the tart better!

I served this with a Sangiovese from Auriga Winery in El Dorado County/Camino. A nice pairing!

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May 23, 2009

Using the Harvest: Baby Bok Choy

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No, they are not aliens from outer space!

Subdued and mellow, it plays well with other ingredients. It has a slight celery taste but is much more exciting. When cooked, it absorbs flavors from pan partners. These characteristics make it simple to cook and result in palate pleasing dishes. I would be remiss if I didn’t share it is great raw, sliced thin and tossed in a salad!

My first exposure to Bok Choy was in Chinese food years ago, but there are so many possibilities with this vegetable. You can find it now in abundance at farmer's markets. This is what I did recently…

Coconut Braised Baby Bok Choy

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April 3, 2009

Using the Harvest: Asparagus

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Tis the season for asparagus. It’s available in abundance now. In past years I’ve tried renditions of asparagus soup too numerous to count, so here is something different. I’ve incorporated familiar items into a fun presentation that tastes good. Although it might sound time consuming, it really isn’t. You can make the polenta the day or night before.

I made the above stack, collaborating with Dennis Kercher, at a recent Hidden Kitchen dinner.

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December 12, 2008

Using the Harvest: Cod Couscous and Onion T'faya with Persimmons

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Persimmons... I truly love them (see Amagaki post earlier in November). The stacks are dwindling at stores. I noticed Amagakis are no more at Whole Foods Market in Sacramento. So I picked up the workhorse, a Fuyu, and decided to incorporate it into a recipe I'd been wanting to try.

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Let's go to Morocco, where you hear about dishes such as Tagine, B’stilla (Bisteeya), Harira, Kefta and where couscous is a staple. But I’d not heard of T’faya, which is the dish I made.

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