So just what is Nekeas anyway? A winery making excellent wines in the Navarra region of Spain.

Although I’m home now, not continuing to share more of my amazing adventures would be withholding great information. Who knows when one may decide to venture off to Northwest Spain!

To give a quick overview of the Navarra, it experiences climatic effects from both the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea, and has 15,000 hectares (roughly 38 acres) in five sub-regions: Valdizerbe, Baja Montana, Ribera Baja, Ribera Alta and Terra Estella. Temperatures (from 82∞ Fahrenheit in summer to 28 in winter), soil and rainfall differ markedly throughout these areas.

Navarra DO (Designation of Origin) regulations permit using 11 grape varieties: garnacha (grenache), tempranillo, mazuelo (carignan), graciano, cabernet sauvignon and merlot for reds and rosados (rosés), and viura (macabeo), chardonnay, muscat, grenache blanc and malvasia for whites. Red grapes cover 95% of the area.

I ventured to Bodegas Nekeas in the northern most region who’s grapes are also grown in the northern most area of Navarra. Nekeas is a cooperative formed by a few families who had vineyards and were separately making wine in the Valley. They export a large majority of their wine under both the Nekeas and Vega Sindoa labels. The US exporter with whom they worked thought the name “Nekeas” sounded too Greek-like and requested they change the name for the US market. “Vega Sindoa” is the name of the river that runs through the Nekeas Valley just below the winery.

We were there mid-September and harvest was just around the corner. Greeted by the marketing person and given an overview of the operation, she turned us over to winemaker Concha Vecino, as Concha had a free moment.

Concha told us it’s her favorite time of the year as she spends mornings riding her bicycle through the vineyards taking grape samples to monitor ripeness. She invited us into her lab

and shared her morning samples.

We tasted a whole grape, then the skins alone without any pulp because grape skins contain many flavor components including tannins. You can have ripe grapes but unripe tannins!

This particular day, although the brix (grape sugar) from one vineyard was where she wanted it, the grape skins were not. The skins were definitely bitter.

For those interested, tannins are organic compounds that react with proteins and other chemicals. They are good because they impart flavors, round out red wines and give them a feeling of weight in your mouth. They’re found in grape skins and seeds, and are also present in other plant materials like wood and some fruits. Oak wine barrels can also be an additional source of tannins.

Nekeas Vineyards

We tasted, talked and laughed with Concha for over an hour. What an amazing experience! It’s not everyday you get to spend time with a winemaker in her / his lab tasting grape samples and learning first hand! Nekeas wines are quality, approachable, tasty and very reasonably priced. I’ll be seeking them out with a smile on my face and remembering my morning with Concha.

El Chaparral is the name of their old vine Grenache vineyard.

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Bodegas Irache is located in Ayegui, two kilometres from Estella. It was established in 1891 however it’s vineyards go back to the 12th century. The Monestary de Irache, also 12th century, is literally right next to the winery. The monestary was the first hospital for pilgrims on the Way to Compostela.

Irache built a new facility within the current structure which was inaugurated in 1991. This new aging hall, which holds 10,000 oak casks and is quite impressive, I must say!

Conchi, the bodega's Export Manager greeted us. She speaks English wonderfully thus handles most tours. Lively, fun loving and passionate about the bodega’s wine and history, she is a wealth of information.

The first stop was the wine museum in the older part of the bodega. Here wine buffs will love seeing old tools and objects related to wine making, as well as a centenary cellar with the bodega’s best vintages. You'll also see the “Wine Fountain”, a little tap in the back outside wall of the building where those walking to Compostela can help themselves to a cup of wine (which is supplied au-gratis by the winery's gracious owner Jesús Santesteban, whom we got to meet) or water.

The road to Compostela passes conveniently right next to the winery. To capture a fun tour moment, call someone you know and ask them to log onto “The Wine Fountain” on the bodega’s website. Next, have them click on the webcam and you can wave to them live from the fountain.

Impressive were the huge stainless tanks (23 in all) which hold 70,000 liters of liquid.

Irache’s vineyards include the PRADO DE IRACHE estate. The grapes of this vineyard are used to make the Prado Irache wine, a single-estate, limited-production wine marketed in numbered bottles. Made with grapes painstakingly selected, the wine shows unmistakable ties with it’s terroir. The Prado Irache is only made from vintages achieving the desired quality.

In total, they make about 13 different wines under four labels, including the multiple medal winner GRAN IRACHE CRIANZA. This wine is a blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and aged in oak casks. Blackberries invite you to enjoy it’s aromas while dark ripe cherries marked with toast, friendly but firm tannins and a long finish tempt you to take another sip. Better yet, we bought a bottle and had it with dinner! Gran Irache Crianza is a perfect example of quality, value and taste.

On a side note, Irache has an organic project producing a red wine called FUENTE CERRADA.

Next up, Estella, located in the Navarre wine region of northern Spain and south west of Pamplona, and also on the Pilgrimage Route to Santiago de Compostela. A medieval Roman town (Estella (Spanish) or Lizarra (Basque)) a stones throw away from Irache and what an inviting town it was! Small but active with life, artisan foods and a genuine weekly market in the Plaza De San Martin. Next up, Estella; a medieval Roman town (Estella (Spanish) or Lizarra (Basque)) a stones throw from Irache and what an inviting town it was! Small but active with life, artisan foods and a genuine weekly market in the Plaza De San Martin.

Continue reading "Navarra Wine, Historic Town: Bodegas Irache and Estella" »

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Hiking in Spain is absolutely beautiful. In addition to our food and wine adventures this trip, we’ve gone on several hikes. Starting in Barcelona, you’ve got Montserrat, a short train ride from the city. From this monastery dating back a few hundred years, (who’s counting centuries!) you have magnificent views of the surrounding area. Depending on your preference, you can take an easy stroll or a long, strenuous hike lasting hours, the latter, our choice.

You can also wonder through the city to various sights, i.e., Sagarada Familia and parks (Park
Guell) which we did daily. Montjuic is a excellent choice if you want to remain in the city but need a break from it’s hussel and bussel. Views of the city, beach and port are staggering from Montjuik.

Next, you’ve got the “GR” (Grand Randonee) hiking trails.

Throughout Europe, they are marked with a red and white stripe. We also came upon a second local trail system in the Priorat wine region marked with a yellow and white stripe. Often times the two systems would cross or hook up common trails.

At the tourist office in Falset, the Priorat’s wine hub, you may be greeted by an energetic, late 20-something man who’s mission is to complete the documentation and mapping of the local trails. He’s personally hiked most of them, making sure they are adequately marked.

We wanted to combine wine tasting with hiking thus picked a recommended trail starting in La Vilella Alta.

Along the way you pass an old Hermitage then drop down into La Vilella Baixa where Buil & Giné winery is located 100 meters off the trail.

Continue reading "Wine, Almonds and Hiking in Spain" »

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Traveling Europe in search of the best cheese for her then job, Katherine McLaughlin particularly liked Spain and it’s cheese. About ten years ago, she decided to open her own shop devoted to Spanish-only farmhouse cheeses. She stocks a number of goat, sheep and cow milk varieties, as well as local artisan olive oils, and wine to go with cheese tastings.

I stumbled upon “Formatgeria La Seu” in the “Time Out Barcelona” book I’d purchased for the trip. (Fantastic book for anyone going to Barcelona!) The day I navigated my way through narrow streets to her shop, she was stocking after being closed in August. Although I wasn’t able to enjoy her taster plate of three cheeses and a glass of wine, we had a wonderful time chatting. It was very interesting to hear all about the start, growth and challenges of being a shop owner in Spain. She also marked the best restaurants and tapas bars in my book! So if you like cheese and plan to be in Barcelona, visiting Formatgeria La Seu is a must.

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What did we do today? A great three hour hike to the Basque town of Getaria on the coast where seafood is aplenty. As you walk the streets of this small port town, you see restaurants cooking fish outside on grills.

We found a place for our typically later Spanish lunch. While waiting for our food sipping on Txokoli, we were entertained by a feral kitty waiting to be fed.

Out came the grilled Hake.

Then, the sardines

I can’t get enough of them this trip and apparently my hubby can’t either. A memorable lunch that hit the spot!

Ummm!

All gone!

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Established in 1877 and located in the town of Haro, Bodegas Lopez de Heredia is the third oldest bodega (winery) in Rioja, run by the family’s fourth generation, and make wine in a ‘tradional’ method. The visit was fascinating and oh so different from the typical California winery tour (not that I don’t like California wine). For fellow wine buffs, I know you’ll enjoy the following. For those who aren’t (yet), I hope it piques a new or further curiosity of wine!

So what is traditional?

After harvest, crushing and de-stemming, the juice is put in large wood vats (over 100 years old and each holding around 20,000 liters / just over 5,000 gallons) where fermentation takes place. Natural yeast strains characteristic of Rioja built up on the vat’s insides over the years, thus no need to add yeast to start fermentation. Check this out:

Once fermentation is completed, the wine is transferred to different old wood vats where malolactic fermentation (ML) takes place. This usually doesn’t happen until the spring when the temperatures get warmer (warm temps are required for ML to take place). Like the old vats for primary fermentation, these second set of vats have a build up of the desired malolactic bacteria, thus the use of cultured bacteria isn’t required.

Long term aging in old oak barrels occurs next.

As we walked through the musty smelling caves, it was explained the mold on the walls (and we’re talking massive mold) helps control undesirable bacteria that could contribute to spoilage of the wine. We popped a bottle of reserva that night and noted the cork’s end and wine’s aroma slightly smelled of that must!

The aging barrels are used for up to 20 years. An interesting point is Heredia has their own on-site cooperage. Because they keep and use barrels so long, they found it necessary to have the capability to repair them in-house. With this comes the ability to build barrels as well.

They use American oak, which is stacked in pallets to age a few years prior to use. When barrels are at the end of their life, they’re broken down and the staves are used as firewood to toast new barrels.

Continue reading "Traditional Wine in La Rioja" »

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Where was I today? Driving down the street in Haro (pronounced ah-row), a small hub town in the northern La Rioja wine region. It was about 4:00 p.m. I look to my left and say to my husband, “Stop! Pull over, quick!” I jump out and walk over to an open garage. In it are six ladies, ranging from 40 to probably 70 years of age. They had an impressive operation in action roasting what they told me were piquillo peppers.

I just walked right into the garage. They all looked at me curiously, wondering what the heck I was doing. In my broken Spanish, I explained it was very interesting to me and that I’d never seen anything like their contraption. I was immediately welcomed and got the tour.

These ladies grow the peppers then roast and jar them to sell each fall. They are washed then placed in a metal cylinder over a very hot fire which is continuously cranked to evenly roast the peppers tossed about inside.

Emptying the Contraption

Next, two women peel the charred skin and remove all seeds. They made sure to tell me not to use any water as it washes away the flavor. The final prep stage is to slice them.

Sliced Peppers Awaiting the Jar

Stumbling upon this operation definitely made my day!

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We drove to the the southern end of the Navarra wine region to the town of Corella for our 11:30 a.m. tour of Bodegas Camilo Castilla, the oldest winery in this region. They specialize in sweet wine made from the “Muscat de petit grain” grape, a.k.a. small berry Muscat.

The bodega makes four wines with this grape: a young and aged that are fortified and a young and aged natural (non-fortified).

As I enjoy dessert wines, the older natural style was my focus. Called “Caprichio de Goya”, it is aged a total of seven years.

Three are spent in old barrels, some of which are up to 100 years old and range in size from 7,000 to 12,000 liters. While in the large barrels, they follow a Solera type system. Each year when it is time to bottle, ¼ of the amount of that years wine is left in the barrel. Then, the current year’s wine is added to top it off. One year is spent in demi-johns and the remaining three in standard barrels.

The use of demi-johns is rare but this bodega has done it since the beginning. Light oxidizes the wine through the class, developing complexity and concentration. I found it interesting they remain outside on a flat-top roof year long, regardless of the temperature.

Camilo Castilla is one of only 35 bodegas to produce communion wine (vino de misa). They also produce a dry rose from Granacha (Grenache) named “Pink” to satiate the local desire for a Navarrese Rosato. With upscale labeling and at just 4.20 euro per bottle, it is currently being test marketed in New York.

Another interesting item is they hand label the Caprichio de Goya because the non-standard 375 and 500ml bottle shapes are unstable in their automated bottling line.

Taste? It entices you to have more with it’s honeysuckle aroma and orangy, caramel and coffee flavors. You don’t really need any dessert with it as it is a dessert all by itself, but we happily enjoyed it with Crema de Catalonia!

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Bustling with merchants and people from daybreak until mid evening, the market doesn’t stop. Plentiful vegetables, fruit and mini smoothies (only 1 euro) to grab and go.

A bakery oozing with smells of bread, pastries and other goodies. Fresh seafood, meats, sausages, and of course lots of Serrano jamón (dry-cured ham). I even found jamón ibérico de bellota, which is from free-range pigs who gobble acorns. And snails and pigeons, take a look:

You see fresh and dried peppers, spices and herbs, and many things of which you are not sure. It is truly a feast for your eyes!

We walked past a small tapas bar (El Quim) where a huge platter was piled with the most beautiful mushrooms I’d ever seen. Since it was only 9 a.m., I opted for a coffee con leche and drooled while the man next to me consumed a plate of these sautéed mushrooms and a Spanish tortilla of sorts, Spain’s version of an egg dish commonly including potatoes and vegetables.

Goat cheese is a favorite of ours thus we bought a small bit to slather on a baguette. It was from an artisan cheese producer specializing in Queso de Cabra, Cabra meaning goat.

Wine- I won’t go into details, this picture says a thousand words!

Foodie or not, if in Barcelona, definitely visit the Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria, or simply La Boqueria.

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My husband and I arrived at the rented Barcelona flat at 5:00 p.m. on a Wednesday. A quick shower unveiled the second wind’s face and off we went, into the streets crawling with people. Our quest? Locate a tapas bar from which we would kick off our one month food, wine and hiking adventure in northern Spain.

After much exploring, hunger pangs took over in front of Taller de Tapas, adjacent to the Placeta del Pi in the Barri Gotic (gothic quarter). We started with what I craved; Boquerones en Vinagre (silver backed anchovies cured in vinegar then drizzled with olive oil) and an order of tomato bread (slices of bread vigorously rubbed with garlic and a halved tomato then finished with a drizzle of olive oil). With a half bottle of rosado (dry rose), this was the perfect starter.

The waiter suggested we also try Boquerones Rebozados. For this, anchovies are butterflied, very lightly coated in batter, then fried. Wow!

Next, Espinacas con Pancetta Iberica y Garbanzos (sautéed spinach, Iberian pancetta and chickpeas) and Ensalada de Rúcula, Membrillo y Queso de Cabra de la Nuri (Arugula with Nuri’s goat cheese, quince paste and toasted almonds). Spanish cheese and Membrillo together are truly an extraordinary match….and another half bottle of rosado was required.

Then the Sardinas a la Plancha con Perejil (grilled sardines with parsley) arrived. Previously, we’d only had them from a can, so we were surprised that these were much bigger.

So the hubby asks how to eat them. Not being familiar, combined with the rosado and lack of sleep (we’d been up about 36 hours), I simply said “just cut them up and eat them,” so we did just that. SURPRISE! Crunch crunch, bones and all with the first one. What a mess. Looking sheepishly at an adjacent table we discovered ya gotta cut them in half and pull the main spine bone out of this larger fresh type. Duh. A perfect tourista moment, and an indication it was time for bed….and no need for the calcium supplement tonight!

(The pics are not the greatest as I forgot my camera and used my cell phone!)

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I'm just back from a gluttonous weekend in San Francisco. The weather was spectacular, the people were quirky, and the food was delicious. I have to say, though, that the highlights all involved pork products. While we have some very fine pork here in the Sacramento area, you'd be well within your gourmand rights to taste some piggy goodness out of town. Here are my recommendations:

I started the weekend with the speck plate at L'Osteria del Forno for Friday dinner. The restaurant is on Columbus Avenue in North Beach and, as you might suspect from the name, has an oven but no stove. Hence, you get warm and filling baked items like pizzas, pasta with bechamel, and roasted eggplant. The speck plate though, consists of thinly sliced ham ("speck" being German for bacon, but referring here to juniper-flavored cured ham from Northern Italy), arugula, white beans, and shaved Parmesan. The salty ham and peppery arugula enlivened the stewed beans and the cheese added an additional tang. I followed this with incredilby tender handmade ravioli filled with silky pumpkin puree.

The next morning brought more hammy goodness.

Continue reading "Porking Out in San Francisco" »

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Although it's only 45 minutes away, the only time I ever seem to go to Placerville is on my way through to Tahoe or Apple Hill. And I rarely stop, unless I'm starving, since the options from the highway don't look that inspiring. But I recently journeyed out to Somerset in the foothills to visit a goat farm and then took the backroads into Placerville afterwards. The walk down Main Street on a sunny Saturday was a culinary extravaganza!

I first hit the farmer's market, held in an empty parking lot at Main St. and Locust Ave. Across the street is another lot, where you can park for free for two hours. The market wasn't large, but it had a lot of prepared foods, including baked goods from Sweetie Pies down the street, and a selection of cheeses from the nearby Dedrick's Cheese store. I bought some fresh flowers, a loaf of asiago-garlic bread, and a tomato red ceramic mug, plus some green and purple beans for a salad. I've heard of Dedrick's before, so I asked where the store was located, which was conveniently just west on Main.

Since I haven't been further into downtown than just off the highway in quite a while, I didn't realize how many great stores there were in just a few blocks. The Gold Rush-era buildings are chock full of delicious finds and "stuff stores," as my friend calls them. I'd like to take a look at some of the bookstores, but I was concentrating on food that day. (Unfortunately, I didn't do as good a job at taking photos, but I was on a mission, with a baby in tow!)

Starting at Dedrick's, here's what I found:

Continue reading "Day Trip to Placerville" »

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Apologies to Hawaiians for whom I may have mangled their language above (it should roughly translate to: Good Kauai Food)! But I just returned from a week on Kauai and am infected with tropical fever. I realize that this is far from Sacramento, but I really can't resist sharing some of my delicious discoveries. There is a payoff for you in the form of a recipe, so don't be too jealous!

The image above is of a 1964 cookbook that we bought in a vintage store. The title means "quick food." The cover is a good representation of the mixture of cultures in Hawaii--native Hawaiians (generally Polynesian ancestry), Japanese, Chinese, Portuguese, Filipino, and even some Germans and Norwegians. It's quite a melting pot and lots of tasty food has resulted, although much of what we saw listed as "native" cuisines are definitely more Polynesian mixed with Japanese and Chinese (the three main cultural influences).

But some of the most fantastic food on Hawaii is the fruit. We went to a farmer's market (available every day on Kauai) and bought perfectly ripe pineapples (albeit $5 each), macadamia nuts in the shell, a coconut with a straw for drinking the flavorful "milk," juicy tangerines, seedless grapefruit (Hawaii used to be a big citrus exporter), two kinds of small bananas, and star fruit. The red fuzzy things in the photo above are rambutans. When you peel off the skin, they have a translucent fruit similar to a litchi. There were also mangos, papayas, and the floral lilikoi (passionfruit).

Continue reading "Travel Eats: Ono Kauai Kau Kau" »

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 10:10 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)