Limone, Limón, Citrón? Not sure how I got hooked on them but remember my dad telling me I couldn’t eat more than one a day when I was a kid because the acid would eat the enamel off my teeth. My dad loved gardening, hunting, fishing and growing things, thus we always had a big garden and fruit trees, including a Meyer Lemon in our backyard. Oh how I enjoyed hanging with him and putzing around the garden. I was responsible for watering when he went on trips (he was a pilot). I consider myself lucky to have had a dad who treasured growing his own produce.

Last year I tried marmalade, which didn’t quite set but was a great addition to vinaigrette and dessert sauce. This year I made cake. A Meyer Lemon Cake with Chardonnay Sauce to be exact.

A recipe caught my eye in a Bonny Doon Vineyard’s newsletter a while back. Most intriguing was the use of olive oil. While I’ve heard of olive oil type cakes, I’d never made one and wanted to know how olive oil would actually taste in a cake.

It wasn’t too sweet and fairly light on it’s own, with subtle flavors of olive oil, but the aroma made me think savory. Conveniently the top had sunk a tad, so I added a thin layer of freshly made quince paste, a.k.a. Membrillo, I’d made the day before. The wine sauce brought it all together. At first I poured a little on top and watched it soak into the cake’s sides. Hum… more to soak, more taste. I settled on a slice in a puddle.

Since I’d polished the Viognier months before and a minimally oaked Chardonnay was open, chardonnay it was.

I always make candied lemon peels (I’ve graduated from eating raw lemons to candied peels which satiate the sweet tooth I inherited from my dad), and have used Meyers but peels from the more common Eureka or Lisbon are thicker, thus may be better to use. I added some to garnish the cake.

Before the Sugar

After the Sugar

Here’s the recipe with changes from that newsletter.

Continue reading "Using the Harvest: Meyer Lemons" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 11:55 AM | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBacks (0)

A couple of weeks ago, I posted about the Sundays with Marlena project that three bloggers are undertaking here in Sacramento. (They're actually also posting on Wednesdays, as it turns out, or else they'd be testing recipes until 2011.) Melody asked if I'd be interested in trying the recipe for latkes--the traditional potato pancakes served for Hanukkah. Well, I've made latkes before (I think), but it's been a while. I discovered a few tricks, although I'm sure there are many more to this seemingly easy recipe. Fine-tuning it is what makes the potatoes taste crisp and melty and not just starchy. Once you get the method though, these are quick to turn out and delicious with apple sauce and sour cream or, as I found out, nonfat honey-flavored Greek-style yogurt!

Latkes
adapted from Jewish Cookingby Marlena Spieler
Makes about 12

1 large (about 1 pound) Idaho (russet) potato
1/2 white onion
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons matzo meal (available in the kosher section of most groceries)
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon sugar
Salt
Vegetable oil
Sour cream, yogurt, and/or applesauce for serving

Wash, peel, and grate the potato into a bowl of cold water. This will keep the potato from oxidizing and turning pink, then black (very unappetizing).

Grate or finely chop the onion (I used a Cuisinart with the metal blade). Combine it in a medium bowl with the egg, matzo meal, flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt to taste (I used about 1/2 teaspoon). You can also add Tabasco or other hot sauce to taste.

Drain the potatoes and squeeze as much water out of them as possible. Quickly mix them with the other ingredients to form the latke batter.

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, warm enough oil to thinly coat the bottom of the pan. When it shimmers, add 3-tablespoon portions of batter to the pan and flatten them slightly so that they are fairly evenly thick. Let the latkes sizzle and, when they begin to turn brown at the edges, flip them over. They will cook for about 2 minutes on each side. When the second side is brown, remove the latkes to a plate lined with a paper towel. Reheat the pan with more oil and cook more latkes in the same way.

These are best served fresh and hot, but can be reheated fairly successfully in a warm pan for a minute on each side.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 7:44 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

I was never interested in hard alcohol and don’t have a taste for it. My brother worked at a wine shop growing up and introduced my to the world of wine. That was it, no need for the hard stuff. But for the Sidecar, I make room.

Several years ago, our friends Jennifer and Bradley had us over. Bradley was making drinks and asked if I'd like a Sidecar. Sure! I didn't really pay attention to the name but remembered it was good.

Fast forward to one July in Vancouver, BC at The Raincity Grill on the West End. My husband drinks gin martinis and I wanted to join him before we partook in BC’s own Okanagan Valley wine. The bartender suggested a Sidecar. It went like this:

2 ounces Cognac
1 ounce Cointreau
¾ ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ ounce simple syrup
A sugared rim
Shaken with ice
Stained into a martini glass

Refreshing, uplifting, tasty. So tasty, I took note.

I usually make this cocktail at home as not many bartenders know about Sidecars. When I ask whether a bartender knows how to make one, the response I get 99% of the time is “Isn’t that made with….ah…”, or “No but I can look it up and make you one.” There are several variations of this wonderful cocktail but there are two keys to a great Sidecar and I’ve never found a cocktail book that knows!

1) addition of the simple syrup, and
2) it should really have a sugared rim to offset it’s slightly sour tanginess. (I like to run a freshly cut piece of lemon around the rim, then dip the glass in superfine sugar.)

I’ve tried them with out either and the drink is just not the same. You can use an Armagnac or Brandy, and you can use Triple sec, that’s OK. But the two keys, ya gotta have em!

So if this sounds appealing, try one. If you’re already a Sidecar fan, we’d love to hear about your preferred version!

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 4:17 PM | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBacks (0)

We could argue about who makes the best Caesar salad in Sacramento. The Waterboy does a stellar job, then there is Zinfandel Grill (lemony), Jack's Urban Eats (price point) and more. But my friend Mel, let me tell you, his is truly memorable.

I recently had Mel and his friend Laura over for dinner. Being a fellow foodie, he wanted to contribute. He decided on a Caesar salad while I'd come up with a protien to top it off.

Mel showed up with all his own stuff including his one and only wooden bowl for Caesar. The anchovies went in first followed by squeezes of lemon juice. Mel's thought is the acid breaks down the anchovy a bit and makes it easier to mash them. We all like anchovies so he put in 5 or 6.

Next, just a tad of coarse sea salt and a heaping teaspoon of French's mustard. He used a garlic press for the 3 garlic cloves and added several shakes of Worcestershire sauce. At this point he stirred and tasted. A little more lemon juice and a shake more of Worcestershire.

Next he coddled an egg and added the yolk. I asked why coddle? He'd been told way back coddling kills any bacteria in the egg so he just does it that way. He stirred in the egg then added olive oil. Another taste, then on went the freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano. It looked like this:

He stepped aside to the bread and made his croutons. Mel always makes his own croutons!

His next step is to cut up or tear the Romain lettuce. He puts it directly on the dressing and tosses it all together. More parmesan, top with croutons and we were good to go.

I'd choosen to grill buffalo tenderloin for the protien. Unfortunately, I only have this semi-bloody picture because at that point, we were finishing our second bottle of wine and I forgot to take a picture of the final Caesar with buffalo. It was ummm good on top of the salad!

After experiencing Mel's Caesar, I can say with certainty that he makes the best I've ever had!

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 1:28 PM | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBacks (0)

I really like figs and goat cheese (stinker and aged even better), and arugula. I'd gotten a bunch of spring onions at the farmer's market and wanted to do something a little different. This tart, with an almond crust sounded fun so with alterations, it became a light dinner.

I used my last jar of home-made fig jam. Instead of butter, I used Earth Balance to lighten the cholesterol hit. Plus, I don't always like the taste of butter. It has it's place and it's a wonderful addition to things, but I really wanted to taste the almond and other ingredients here. Also, I admit I'm trying to cook heart healthy these days. But for you butter lovers, use the butter because you'll like the tart better!

I served this with a Sangiovese from Auriga Winery in El Dorado County/Camino. A nice pairing!

Continue reading "Spring Onion Tart with Figs and Goat Cheese" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 10:08 AM | Permalink | Comments (5) | TrackBacks (0)

Local authors Dina Guillen and Michelle Lowrey--authors of The Plank Grilling Cookbook--have just written a new book with perfect timing. Cooking Club: Great Ideas and Delicious Recipes for Fabulous Get-Togethers
was released just in time for the outdoor eating season. The Folsom residents write about their years of fun as members of a dining club--a rotating party of women who eat together every month or so.

As a member of such a club myself, it's really fun to try new dishes and see how your friends throw a dinner party. Since the dinner party concept seems to have fallen off the radar for many people, this is a great way to get back into it. Not only do you get to enjoy eating with friends, but you get to practice cooking for more than yourself and your family. No PB&Js or mac & cheese at these parties (unless they have something special added). It's also relatively affordable. You can feed a party on very little if you know how to budget.

Lowrey and Guillen cover not only budgeting, but how to set up a club, recruit members, and determine menus. They give twelve theme-party examples with recipes, like One Night in Bangkok and Hawaiian Luau. They also interview other cooking clubs from around the country about how they got started and what rules they follow.

I've included one of their intriguing recipes below (watch out, fellow Epicureans--you might be tasting this at my next dinner!). As a bonus for our readers, Sasquatch has sent me a book to give away to a lucky cook. Just comment below with your favorite dinner party theme and I'll use a random name generator to pick a winner. You have until May 29 to enter (once only per person, please). I'll do the drawing on June 1. Winner: Gail!

In the meantime, go see Dina and Michelle at Taylor's Market tomorrow at 11 a.m., where they'll be signing copies of their book. You can also catch them at Borders in Folsom on June 6 from 2-4 p.m., and at Barnes &Noble in the Birdcage Center on July 18 at 1 p.m.

Continue reading "Dinner Party Divas" »

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 1:04 PM | Permalink | Comments (10) | TrackBacks (0)

It was stormy here Friday and I love big storms. There were swells of dark grey clouds whirling through the sky with intermittent down pours and wind. Sinking into a comfy chair with a cup of warm something and a sweet felt appropriate. Not having a sweet in the house, I sifted through ideas and decided on making an Italian inspired cookie.

They turned out good: moist and interesting with a sophisticated kind of taste that didn’t want to tell you all. By the time I was done, I didn’t have time to sink into that chair and came back to them five days later. I wasn’t sure if I liked them at first but on that fifth day, the taste was amazing. They are great with a glass of port! My version are gluten-free but you can use all-purpose flour and they’ll be just as good.

Continue reading "The Sophisticated Cookie" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 10:41 AM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

Taralli biscuits, a staple on every table with the antipasto, Pugliese in nature, infused with wine, use only good olive oil please, grind your pepper fresh, and most important, have time and be patient.

I don’t remember when or where I first tasted these but remember thinking wow, um, good. Flipping through years of ripped out magazine pages this past rainy weekend I stumbled upon an article about Taralli biscuits and decided there is no better time than the present. I learned patience (the dough didn’t want to roll willingly). The end result was worth it as my hubby gave them a thumbs up and polished three quarters of the bag off! They are great on their own but especially good dipped in tapanade or a more decadent option, straight into the pesto!

Continue reading "Origin Pugliese" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 9:04 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

A decapod? Here are a few questions to tease your brain…

What decapod:
1) Was the first on the North Pacific Coast to be fished commercially?
2) Resides in the ocean from the Alaskan Aleutian Islands to about Monterrey, California?
3) Is a culinary jewel of a town in Washington state on the Olympic Peninsula?
4) Is unlawful to keep if it is a female?

OK, once you think you’ve guessed it, another question. What percentage of this decapod’s body is edible meat?

The season for this shell fish opens around mid-November and lasts until about May. It’s said the best eating is December through February so you’d better get busy cooking and eating!

With a bottle of wine I’d been wanting to try, and this particular creature on my brain, I came up with a dish, which paired delightfully.

Here’s how it went...

Continue reading "Curry and the Decapod" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 3:19 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Beluga is a whale, a social, playful and vocal creature. Beluga is also a flat fish, a sturgeon (from which we get Beluga caviar, that has nothing to do with the Beluga Whale). And Beluga is also a lentil. There are lots of names for lentils and other small beans, split or not, that resemble lentils. The Cooks Thesaurus is a great place to learn about lentils!

A less common lentil is the black Beluga. Small with a delicate earthy flavor, they glissen (see my picture) when cooked, reminding some of caviar. We know lentils are high in fiber but black Belugas contain the most protein of all lentil varieties.

This month, I participated in "HotM" or Heart of the Matter's "slimmer recipes" topic, meaning tasty dishes that you eat when you want to loose some of that excess weight you may have accumulated over holiday celebrations. If you are not familiar with HotM, make sure to check it out. And remember food that is good doesn't have to be boring or bland.

Continue reading "Belugas Aplenty" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 8:49 AM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

I wrote previously about this neat project, where a different person gets a cooking tajine for each month this year (thanks Garrett!). We just have to cook with it and write about our experiences. So last time, I made a basic Chicken Tajine for the Oven. This time around, I wanted to adapt a lamb tajine recipe that I had developed for my cookbook, Hands-Off Cooking: Low-Supervision, High-Flavor Meals for Busy People. I wrote it for stovetop cooking and, since I can't use this particular tajine pot on the stove, I needed to change the recipe for oven-only cooking.

Because my cookbook recipes are intended for little to no supervision, the only issue was how to brown the meat and not use a separate pan. What I worked out was that I preheated the tajine bottom in the oven for 10 minutes with the oil. Then I spread the cubed lamb in a single layer on the tajine and left it to brown for about 7 minutes. After that, I simply poured the remaining ingredients on top and covered it with the lid. Forty-five minutes later, we were eating fragrant, delicious lamb over couscous.

My recipe is below, rewritten for the oven. The tajine will soon be on its way to the next participant, Jackie of Cherry Soup. Stay tuned to her blog in February for her tajining results!

Continue reading "The Traveling Tajine Project: Take Two" »

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 5:13 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

I've got my new Christmas camera figured out! As promised, pictures of the Chestnut Biscotti.

I want to share a scruptious Italian Biscotti recipe with you today. (I love biscotti, all kinds and experiment with them weekly.) Dennis Kercher over at The Hidden Kitchen imparted with half of his bag of chestnut flour purchased in Italy on a recent trip. I'd been searching for this flour after stumbling upon a biscotti I wanted to try some time ago. Here it is, with a few changes, and wishes for a wonderful holiday to everyone!

Continue reading "Happy Holidays and Chestnut Biscotti" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 12:09 PM | Permalink | Comments (8) | TrackBacks (0)

Persimmons... I truly love them (see Amagaki post earlier in November). The stacks are dwindling at stores. I noticed Amagakis are no more at Whole Foods Market in Sacramento. So I picked up the workhorse, a Fuyu, and decided to incorporate it into a recipe I'd been wanting to try.

Let's go to Morocco, where you hear about dishes such as Tagine, B’stilla (Bisteeya), Harira, Kefta and where couscous is a staple. But I’d not heard of T’faya, which is the dish I made.

Continue reading "Using the Harvest: Cod Couscous and Onion T'faya with Persimmons" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 8:50 PM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

As some of you know from a previous post, I had quite a San Marzano tomato harvest this year.

With some, I made and froze marinara. To process the marinara, I cut in half and de-seeded the tomatoes. I kept all seeds, inner membranes and tomato water in a bowl then strained this into another bowl, pushing down to extract as much tomato water as possible.

I’ve used tomato water to make soup but wanted to do something fun with my prized, organic, home grown, rich, heirloom tomato water this time! So how about a riff on caprese salad?

I reduced the tomato water to make it richer still...

Continue reading "Using the Harvest: Tomato Cubes Gelee" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 10:24 AM | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBacks (0)

Sardines… They were never anywhere near the top, let alone middle of my list of food items to enjoy. Just the word sardine would ring negatively in my ears. I had them in the pickled herring category, which is on the verge of un-edible. Slimy, oily, fishy and not happening!

A friend recently shared she had sardines on a salad for lunch. My curiosity was peaked and I wanted details. This person is trying to eat healthier, thus they’ve got to have something going for them, and I was unaware of just what that something was. Then I was enlightened.

BELA-Olhão Sardines from Portugal are her brand of choice in the ‘skinless boneless packed in olive oil” category. These large, meaty and lightly smoked little gems (yes, I now think of them as such) are uber tender and tasty. Oily…well they are packed in healthy oil, but not slimy or fishy.

The details:

- Natural source of Co-Enzyme Q-10 and Omega-3
- Good source of calcium and vitamin D
- Tested very low in mercury
- 100% dolphin safe
- Wild caught, sustainably fished off a non-industrial coast
- Packed fresh within 8 hours of catch

I haven’t tried the other varieties made by BELA-Olhão but you can check them out on their website.

There are several canned sardine producers out there. Whole Foods carries BELA-Olhão. Local markets Taylor’s, Corti Bros and Nugget carry other brands I’ll have to try.

Sardine fritters are a great party appetizer (or for anytime). I shallow pan-fried mine versus deep frying and they turned out tasty. I’ve included the recipe below for you to check them out.

What will I do next? Mix them in scrambled eggs, add them to pasta dishes, put them on crostini and top with parmesan cheese, mix them into a bean salad… The possibilities are endless. They are now in the mainstream of my pantry!

Continue reading "Sardines Go Mainstream" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 5:30 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

The Sunday Sacramento farmer’s market is a fabulous one. Now that the pin and all stitches are out of my foot, and I’ve got the OK to move about, I’ll be frequenting it once again. (See October 10 posting re: “2 Cooks…” for history on this topic.) Last Saturday, however, we headed to the Davis farmer’s market. While I did recognize many vendors from Sacramento, it was fun checking out those new to me.

One new table had Endive. It’s in season all the time due to the growing method. I visited a booth on endive at the recent Slow Food Nation in San Francisco and met Richard Collins, a Sacramento native (California Vegetable Specialties). Interesting stuff. Do you like it? Do you know about it? Here’s the scoop…

Endive is the second growth of the bud at the top of a chicory root. They start in the field where chicory family members are grown (curly endive, escarole, frisee, radicchio), then are moved in doors and grow in complete darkness. Field growth takes about 150 days. The second growth inside takes 20 to 28 days. This practice is labor intensive, thus endive is a tad more expensive but worth it!

And now for the fun part… what to do with endive. Like some vegetables, it is not necessarily a straightforward item to use. I’ve seen people look at it and say, “What is this?” or “What do I do with this?” Been there, done that! Bottom line is you just eat it! Eat it raw as an item to snack on like a carrot, celery or jicama stick. Use it to showcase cheese by pulling off a leaf and putting cheese in the leaf ‘bowl’. This is a great party appetizer. Braise it with a little olive oil and garlic as you would bok choy or cabbage. Cut it up and put it in salads. And one of my favorite things to do with it is wrap it in bacon and roast it. I learned this method while doing my practicum at The Waterboy in Sacramento. This easy but incredibly lip-licking recipe is below for your cooking enjoyment!

This leads me to my impromptu Sunday dinner. I do this thing where I pull things out of the fridge and start cooking. The list last Sunday included endive, turkey bacon, asiago cheese, romaine lettuce, a small cod fillet, a small saba fish, garlic, olive/canola oil blend, carrot juice, sake, home made Caesar dressing, kosher salt and a pepper grinder. I made Italian grissini breadsticks earlier so those were contenders. The result?

Asiago Caesar salad topped with saba and cod that was pan seared, deglazed with sake then a carrot juice finishing braise. This was surrounded by bacon wrapped -roasted endive.

The husband hadn’t experienced endive this way and gave the whole thing two thumbs up. He though the saba was cod (teeheehe! My little secret otherwise he probably wouldn’t have eaten it.)

Continue reading "Impromptu Sunday Dinner" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 7:37 AM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

I pulled the last four beets from my garden the other day; one golden, three red and a few very small. I didn’t grow that many this year so I wanted to do something different with these last few. The usual course would be roasting and slicing to eat by themselves or in salads. I’ve also juiced them, made into sauce, beet ravioli, beet soup, pureed beets, spicy beet chips and put them in stir-frys.

I remembered seeing a beet dish a while back that I’d wanted to recreate. It was presented as beet tartare, where the beets were roasted or boiled, small diced, mixed with a few items and plated with accoutrements. I had spinach and a small piece of sashimi grade salmon from Oto’s in the fridge. Something with an Asian twist was calling to me.

I roasted and small diced the beets. Wanting to use ponzu sauce as the flavoring agent, I needed something to bind them as I decided to pack them into a ramekin and invert them onto a plate. A little organic cottage cheese pressed through a fine mesh strainer and mixed with the ponzu worked great. It was light with a nice citrusy zing that paired well with the beets. I had a few very small beets left that I cut in half, scooped a hole in the center and added leftover cottage cheese/ponzu mixture.

Continue reading "Using the Harvest: My Last Beets" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 2:07 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Looking for a healthy budget meal? You've probably got several of them on your front steps right now--if you're decorating for Halloween, that is. Every year, I see beautiful edible pumpkins dumped in the leaf piles after Halloween. I might even have picked up one or two in the past and brought them home. Of course, you don't want the ones that are already cut. But if you have one with a face painted on (or just by itself), then by all means make it into dinner.

We grew some 5 to 10 pounders this year in our backyard, without much attention. Here's what we've made from just one of the medium pumpkins: 3 quarts black bean and pumpkin soup, 4 servings pumpkin risotto with blue cheese and toasted pumpkin seeds, and 6 servings Nepalese pumpkin curry, plus there's still a bit left uncooked. A friend was planning on making pumpkin pie with a half that we gave her and our next-door neighbor brewed up homemade chicken stock to turn into pumpkin soup.

You can find these big beauties at markets now for pennies on the pound. The only challenge is removing the skin. I do it by cutting the pumpkin in quarters, and then use the sharp edge of a serving spoon to scoop out the seeds. Then I cut a quarter into 1-inch wedges and use a sharp chef's knife to slice off the tough skin. Put the wedge on a cutting board and cut downwards, like slicing cheese. Then you can easily cut the pumpkin flesh into chunks as small or large as you'd like. For pie, I'd recommend first roasting the unskinned quarters and then pureeing them to get rid of the fibers. This will also remove any excess moisture that could make your pie runny.

For the risotto, I made a basic recipe and added some fresh sage and a pinch of cinnamon. Then I rinsed and pan-toasted the seeds and tossed them with a little olive oil, salt, and sugar. When I spooned the hot risotto into bowls, I crumbled a creamy blue cheese on top (I think it was Saint Agur) and sprinkled the seeds over that. The cheese really added a salty tang and the seeds were crunchy and slightly sweet.

Next I want to make pumpkin ice cream and maybe some pumpkin-walnut muffins. We've got one big guy left in the garden, then I'll be scouring the markets for more. Click the "keep reading" link for the soup recipe, from my cookbook, Hands-Off Cooking: Low-Supervision, High-Flavor Meals for Busy People:

Continue reading "On a Budget? Eat Your Jack-o-Lantern" »

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 12:55 PM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

Munich, Germany, just over six million people, 16 days from late September through the first Sunday in October, lots of beer consumed (6.9 million liters in 2007) and lots of hearty food. Sounds crazy doesn’t it? I’ve never been to the Munich festival but one in Chicago and our own local Sacramento Turn Verein celebration (it was October 4th and 5th).

My favorite part? The soft, chewy Bavarian pretzels a.k.a “Bretzel”. If you’ve never tasted one, they are a treat and Ettore's Bakery makes them during the month of October. You can also find them at Morant's, Freeport Bakery, and the Sacramento German Deli.

Until a few weeks ago, I’d never made Bretzels. After reviewing a few recipes, I came up with one to try. The first batch was good, but a tad bit heavier than hoped for so I made another. Batch two hit the mark! We ate them hot from the oven but they were also good day two.

Traditionally, lye (sodium hydroxide) is used instead of baking soda for the short boiling. I notice those made with lye have a slightly deeper, crisper brown crust then those boiled with baking soda. I’m in the process of locating a source of food grade lye to try this method.

Continue reading "Bake a Piece of Oktoberfest" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 3:26 PM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

My first encounter with figs was when I was five or six. My grandparents had a huge fig tree in their yard. I remember visiting one summer and my dad going crazy over all the figs on the tree. He plucked one, showed me and explained how tasty and good they are for you. I recall that first bite being… well, kind of gushy. But I also recall not disliking it. And that was that. My mom never bought fresh figs.

Fast forward lots of years and figs reappeared in my life. I don’t know why it took so long. Nor do I remember seeing figs in places I’ve lived, until I moved back to California.

The season is rapidly coming to an end this year. But it’s on my calendar and as it approaches every year, I think about them with anticipation…all the things I’ll make and all the figs I’ll eat! And the same two questions pop up each year; who do I know that has a fig tree and will they let me harvest figs again this year? (I go through the same thing with Meyer Lemons, just wait!)

Jam is a good place to start. Have to get it made so I can enjoy figs after they leave us for the season. My next favorite way to indulge is in salads. In fact, a particular ‘appetizing’ salad has gotten top marks in my book two years in a row now. Then there are sauces, sweet and savory tarts, on thin crust pizza (oh, yeah! Add a little prosciutto…yum!) And the list goes on. But they are also just amazing fresh on their own. Whether Mission (a.k.a Black Mission), Brown Turkey or Kadota (the three most common varieties in California), they are all wonderful.

For fig new-bees, I hope you’ll partake before the season ends this year. For those who think they’re too scary, I hope this changed your mind. Perhaps one try will have you adding fig season to your calendar too. Here is a great late summer salad with which to indulge!

Continue reading "Last Chance For Figs!" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 3:33 PM | Permalink | Comments (5) | TrackBacks (0)

For some reason, I’ve been thinking about vegetable pâtés and terrines lately. (I think it might have been the beautiful Ratatouille Terrine Dennis Kercher made at his last Hidden Kitchen dinner, where I’ve been having lots of fun helping out.)

Being stranded at home with my healing foot, my only resource for vegetables is our small garden. It’s loaded with red and chiogga beets. I love greens and pondered what to do with those lovely beet greens. It was time to harvest them, so harvest I did (I can walk a little now). I previously harvested the red onions and have lots of them. Beet greens and onions…hmmm.

Cottage cheese in the fridge (have you tried Nancy’s Organic brand? It is really yummy.) , and eggs. That should work (it had to as the fridge is looking pretty empty these days!) The veggie pâté was starting to take shape.

I tend to do a lot of cooking with whatever is in the pantry. My husband is now asking me to write things down so I can make them again. He’ll say, “Remember that chicken dish you made with X, Y and Z? Why don’t you make that again, I loved it?” The problem is I do it so often I can’t remember all past dishes I’ve made.

So with foot propped up on the counter (elevation = no swelling) and knife in hand, I went to work. It turned out great (not visually as pretty as Dennis’s terrine, but as tasty)! This is a great way to use up those beet or other greens!

Continue reading "Using the Harvest: Pâté" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 1:46 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

Question of the day: To purchase or grow your own? Many say Italian tomatoes are considered some of the best in the world. In Campania near Naples, around the Mount Vesuvius area in the Agro Sarnese-Nocerino (a valley), the soil is volcanic and fertile. A very old tomato variety is produced there in limited quantities called the San Marzano.

Because of its specialty and limited production area, the European Union gave it a DOP or denomination of protected origin (Denominazione d’Origine Protetta). This means a product has specific characteristics because it was grown in a particular geographic region using specific methods. Every can of authentic Italian San Marzanos will show D.O.P. on the label … do you have any in your pantry? Check to see if they are authentic!

This variety of plum tomato has less seeds and water than round tomatoes, has firm thick flesh and is perfectly suited for canning, drying, and making sauces and paste. They are harvested only when ripe and processed the same day resulting in a canned tomato that retains its color and intense flavor.

So what got me interested in San Marzanos anyway? In culinary school, my Italian chef Tony Minichello raved about them. We tasted and cooked with them and they were good … deep, rich tomato flavor. When I was deciding which tomatoes to grow this past summer, San Marzano came to mind.

I discovered they are indeterminant and have a longer season than other paste tomato varieties, suiting them to warmer climates. (This screams Sacramento!) Typical of heirloom plants, San Marzano is an open-pollinater, breeding true from generation to generation (it's not a hybrid) and making seed saving practical for any home gardener. Seed saving? Being newer to fine gardening details, I was unaware of harvesting the fruit and savings its seeds to plant next year. Wow, this is really cool when you think about it--have your ever? Or have you been like me and purchased seeds or young plants each spring because you didn’t know?

So I grew San Marzanos and it was amazing how this one plant grew! It started bearing mid summer then came on fast. So fast and so many that two of the bamboo poles I used to hold it up broke and the whole plant came tumbling down. With my husband’s help, we untangled it (it fell into the Green Grape tomato plant) and got it back up, unscathed. And it kept growing. I tell you I harvested at least 150 tomatoes from this one plant. We were going to take it out last weekend and prepare for the fall garden but, I found out they are extremely prolific (learned that already) and produce until the first hard frost. So those remaining greenies will turn red and I’ll be able to enjoy them after all.

I do intend to head to Corti’s or Taylor’s Market and pick up an authentic can and compare them to mine, side-by-side. We’ll see whose are better in terms of taste. Mine are pretty darn good: fresh, homegrown as organic as possible, and picked perfectly ripe. The intense tomato flavor, when eaten raw with a pinch of sea salt or when I toss them in olive oil and slow roast, is amazing. I hope this helps me answer the question of the day. How about you?

I encourage you to check them out for yourself. You can buy the real imported product or, better yet, grow your own at home next summer. Tip: It's not too late to buy some fresh San Marzanos and save the seeds for next year. If you can’t wait (or curiosity has got you and you don’t want to wait), you can find them canned at the following Sacramento area establishments:

Taylor’s Market, 2900 Freeport Blvd.: Stranese and Italbrand
Corti Brothers, 5810 Folsum Blvd.: Stranese, Italbrand and Dececco
Italian Importing Co., 1825 J. Street: Stranese
David Berkely, Pavilion’s: Italbrand
Fosco’s Fine Italian Market, Roseville: Stranese

Here is a simple but amazingly flavorful recipe to try with your San Marzanos (or any fresh, yummy tomatoes):

Continue reading "You Say Tomato, I Say Pomodoro" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 6:32 PM | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBacks (0)

What time is it? It's cookie time! (Although, frankly, every day is cookie time in my opinion.) But for those of you who don't bake until the holidays, then get out your pans and spatulas and whip up a couple of these babies.

Both of these cookies were traded recently at a cookie exchange I attended. I took the Chocolate Pepper Snaps, a recipe made for decades in my husband's family that is based on a Ghirardelli recipe booklet from 1969. We've added a dash of cayenne over the years and a sprinkle of sugar on top for eye appeal. The original recipe called for the Ghirardelli Ground Chocolate, which was coarser than cocoa and included sugar. However, I just use high-quality unsweetened cocoa in my cookies so that they aren't overly sweet.

One of my favorites that I brought home from the exchange was a chocolate-dipped coconut macaroon from Kim Bedwell. I'm a big fan of coconut (as is Kim), and these were tasty and moist. I suggested adding a bit of coconut milk or--dare I say it--coconut cream in place of some of the sweetened condensed milk. Or, I have powdered coconut milk that I found in Sri Lanka. Maybe one of the Asian markets here carries something like that? If you're going to go coconutty, you might as well go all the way!

Continue reading "Chocolate Pepper Snaps and Coconut Macaroons" »

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 11:14 AM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

What is with this heat? How can you bear to eat anything but ice cream when it's this hot? (Not that I discourage that desire, of course.) But if you want to eat something that isn't sweet, have I got a tip for you--Charleston Chicken-Pecan Salad. It's from my cookbook and I've made at least four batches in the last two weeks, with the ingredients for another double batch just waiting in the kitchen. I'm telling you, it's easy and flavorful and perfect to make ahead. Take it to your next potluck or just whip up a batch and have dinner and lunch settled for the weekend.

And here's the headnote from the book:
My cousin Dan got married in Charleston, South Carolina, and they served a delicious chicken-pecan salad with apples at the reception. It inspired me to make this recipe, which uses canned chicken, much like tuna salad. I usually like a chunkier chicken salad, with lots of roasted or grilled chicken. But the canned chicken and smoother consistency are more like the original in Charleston and make it easy to spread on bread for sandwiches; try Irish Soda Bread. This also makes a good hors d’oeuvre spread on crackers or bread rounds.

Hands Off: 15 minutes
Serves 6 as a sandwich spread

Three 5-ounce cans chicken breast meat without salt, drained, or about 10 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1/2 Granny Smith green apple
1/2 cup (2 ounces) finely chopped pecans
1/2 cup Miracle Whip or similar salad dressing (zestier than mayonnaise)
2 scallions, thinly sliced, including 4 inches of green parts
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon dry mustard

1. If using chicken breasts, poach them in simmering water for 12 to 15 minutes, or until just opaque throughout. Drain and cool briefly, then finely chop the meat in a food processor.

2. Using the large holes of a box grater, shred the unpeeled apple down to the core.

3. In a large bowl, combine the apple, chicken, pecans, dressing, scallions, lemon juice, and mustard. Mix well to break up the chicken and distribute the ingredients. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

4. Let stand for 15 minutes to allow the flavors to come together, or cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days. Spread on slices of bread and serve as sandwiches.

Note: I made a great batch of this recently using Trader Joe's 12 1/2-ounce cans of chicken. I used two cans and the following other ingredient amounts: 1 apple, 3 ounces pistachios (toasted), 2/3 cup mayo, 3 scallions, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, about 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard. Delicious!

Also Note: There's been a date change on the cooking series that I'm teaching. The Indian cooking class will now be on Saturday, August 25. If you pay ahead for this or either of the other classes, you'll get a signed copy of the Hands-Off cookbook! Plus food to taste. Mmmmmm.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 3:05 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Two weeks ago, Garrett, of Vanilla Garlic fame, posted a challenge to come up with a new cupcake. He and many other people these days are cuckoo for cupcakes. As someone who had cupcakes at my wedding instead of a big cake, I completely understand. They're perfect single servings, you can really be clever with flavor combinations, and you can try lots of different toppings with just one batch of cakes. Plus, they remind most of us of childhood birthday parties and bake sales. Just look at all the bakeries that sell them now (Phillipp's is a good example here).

So with my recent Hawaiian getaway, I got inspired to make a cupcake with tropical flavors. For some reason, I got fixated on passionfruit. It's certainly not local to this area, but you can buy purees and nectars of passionfruit sometimes. I found the nectar at Safeway (in the "natural foods" aisle), where they have the Ceres brand of juices in many other tropical flavors. I simply substituted passionfruit juice for the milk in my favorite 1-2-3-4 cake recipe from Susan Purdy's classic cookbook A Piece of Cake. (Unbelievably, you can buy this incredible book through amazon for as little as $2.73. I think it's out of print, so don't miss out. I use the book all the time.)

I used coconut milk (unsweetened) and a bit of coconut milk powder, which I had left from my last tropical trip to Sri Lanka, in the icing. But even the canned milk gave it plenty of flavor with the addition of toasted coconut on top. If I make this again, I'd try to source passionfruit puree for a stronger flavor, or else brush the warm cupcakes with a syrup made of reduced passionfruit juice. But even with just a hint of that floral flavor, these are yummy!

Passionfruit-Coconut Cupcakes
Makes 24

Cupcakes
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 cups sugar
4 large eggs, separated
1 cup passionfruit nectar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Icing
1 cup sweetened shredded coconut
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 pound powdered sugar
1/4 to 1/3 cup unsweetened coconut milk
2 to 3 tablespoons coconut milk powder (optional)
1/2 teaspoon salt

Line two 12-cup muffin tins with paper liners. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Pour the juice and vanilla into a measuring cup.

In a mixer, beat the butter until soft and smooth. Add the sugar and beat until light and smooth. Add the egg yolks, 1 at a time, beating after each addition. Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl several times.

With the mixer on low speed, alternately add the flour mixture and juice, beginning and ending with the flour.

In another bowl, with a clean whip, beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry. Stir about 1/3 of them into the batter to lighten it, then fold in the remaining whites. Divide the batter evenly between the cupcake liners (they will be almost full). Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the tops are golden and springy and a toothpick inserted in the center of one comes out clean.

Cool in the pans for 10 minutes, then remove the cupcakes to a wire rack to finish cooling.

Meanwhile, make the icing: Spread the coconut in a cake or pie pan and put into the oven to toast until lightly browned, about 10 minutes.

Beat the butter in a mixer until smooth, then gradually begin adding the sugar. After about half of the sugar is added, pour in 1/4 cup coconut milk, beat until smooth, then scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the remaining sugar, the coconut powder (if using), the salt (which you want to balance the sweetness of the coconut), and any additional milk needed to get the texture you like. Ice the cupcakes and sprinkle each one with a bit of toasted coconut.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 9:32 AM | Permalink | Comments (5) | TrackBacks (0)

This is a bit untraditional in that the fish is briefly seared. You could leave it raw if you prefer, but you need the highest-quality fish available.

Serves 4

1 pound marlin fillets, cut into 1/4- to 3/4-inch cubes [note: you could try ahi or skipjack tuna as substitutes]
4 teaspoons soy sauce
1 cup chopped onion
4 teaspoons chopped green onions
1 cup chopped ogo seaweed (optional)
4 teaspoons sesame oil
4 tablespoons vegetable oil, for searing

Garnishes:
Bean sprouts
Chopped cabbage
Salad greens
Ogo seaweed

Place fish cubes in a mixing bowl with the soy sauce, onions, seaweed, and sesame oil. Mix well.

In a wok, heat the vegetable oil on high heat. Sear the fish mixture while tossing. Don't cook for more than a minute or two, as you want the center raw.

Serve with the garnishes.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 10:01 AM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

'Tis the season to eat gingerbread--and build it into picturesque buildings dripping with sugar icicles and candy roof tiles.

Today and tomorrow, you can see Gingerbread Holidays in Old Sac, a display of handmade gingerbread houses at the Old Sacramento Schoolhouse Museum (Front and L Sts.). The display is open for viewing from 1 to 4 both days. (Free; 916-558-3912)

Or, you might want to bake up some gingerbread that you can eat. The recipe that my family has made for more than 30 years comes from Betty Crocker's Picture Cookbook (1956 edition). With the retro title of "Gingerbread Boys: Make Holidays Gayer Than Ever" (no wonder there were no gingerbread girls!), this makes a chewy-soft gingerbread cookie rather than a crisp one. We've been known to decorate ours as ballerinas, dolphins, and clowns. So gather up a bunch of cookie cutters, powdered sugar for icing (plus food coloring), and some small clean paintbrushes reserved only for food. Kids especially like this project. You just have to keep them from eating all the dough before it gets baked. My tip? Double the batch so there's enough to give, keep, and eat. Happy holidays!

Continue reading "Gingerbread for Admiring and Eating" »

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 9:51 AM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

I joined the Sacramento Epicurians group recently, just in time for their 3rd anniversary Morrocan dinner. The Epicurians is a loose group of people (over 250 belong), who meet once a month to eat at a local restaurant and socialize. This past Friday, 61 people gathered for a meal at Marrakech restaurant, just off of Arden Way.

We were all seated in the back room, which is decorated to look like a large North African tent, complete with flocked wallpaper and decorative hangings. The small, round tables skirted the room, with seating on upholstered stools, poofy beanbag-like seats, and a banquette along the wall. People on the beanbags had the best angle in relation to the table. The rest of us were rather hunched over.

The group leader had arranged a multi-course meal that was eaten almost entirely with your hands, in the traditional way. Waiters in colorful baggy trousers and pointed-toe shoes came around with warm water, which they poured out of a brass pitcher while we held our hands over a tureen to catch the water. We had fluffy hand towels to use, although I felt a bit odd using mine as a napkin too. I kept trying not to get it dirty, which is difficult when you're eating with your fingers!

Continue reading "Rock the Casbah" »

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 2:45 PM | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBacks (0)

Hands Off: 30 minutes

A classic bistilla is made with layers of phyllo dough encasing a fragrantly spiced meat mixture—often pigeon. You might also find whole hard-boiled eggs inside, and the top is always dusted with confectioners’ sugar and cinnamon. Since phyllo can be hard to work with, I have substituted frozen puff pastry here. This meat pie makes a very dramatic presentation, perfect for a dinner party or holiday. It is a sweet/savory balancing act that pairs well with a semi-dry white wine like Riesling.

Serves 6

1/2 cup (2 ounces) whole almonds, toasted
3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar, divided
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, divided
3 large eggs
1 pound ground turkey
1 cup diced onion
2/3 cup raisins
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon ground ginger
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
Pinch of saffron threads
One 17.3-ounce package puff pastry, thawed in the refrigerator

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. In a food processor, combine the almonds, 2 tablespoons of the sugar, and 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon. Pulse a few times so that there are still chunks of almonds for crunchiness.

3. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until blended. Take out 1 tablespoon of the eggs and put it in a small dish; set aside. To the remaining eggs, add the turkey, onion, raisins, cilantro, garlic, lemon juice, ginger, salt, pepper, coriander, and saffron. Mix thoroughly to distribute the spices without squashing the meat.

4. Unfold 1 piece of pastry, place it on the prepared pan, and roll it lightly with a rolling pin to smooth the seams. Be careful not to compress the edges. Spread 1/4 cup of the almond mixture over the center of the pastry, then top with half of the turkey mixture. Form the turkey into a log about 3 1/2 inches wide, leaving at 1-inch border at either end of the pastry. Fold 1 long side of the pastry over the turkey. Moisten the other long side with the reserved egg, then fold the other half of the pastry over and press it to seal against the moistened edge. Moisten the ends and press them together as well. Use the parchment to roll the packet, seam-side down, toward one end of the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining ingredients, making another packet and rolling it to sit at least 2 inches from the other one.

5. Use the tip of a knife to poke 3 holes in the top of each pastry. Bake the bistilla for 30 minutes, until they are puffed and brown. Combine the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar and 1 teaspoon cinnamon and sift them over the top of the rolls. Present the whole rolls and then cut each one in thirds to serve.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 2:39 PM | Permalink

After seeing our post on PlacerGROWN Nancyjo who is the current director, graciously sent us a recipe that she adapted from Cooking Light. Thanks Nancy! This sounds like a perfect thanksgiving condiment to me.

Poached Quinces

You might want to double this recipe as you discover the fascinating flavor when served on polenta with blue cheese, or with roasted chicken or spread on really good whole-wheat toast for breakfast.

4 cups water
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
1 cinnamon stick
1 tablespoon whole cloves
1 julienne-cut lemon rind
4 cored peeled quinces, quartered (1 ¾ pounds)

Bring first 6 ingredients to a boil in a Dutch oven, and cook 2 minutes. Add quinces; reduce heat, and simmer 45 minutes or until tender, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat, and cool to room temperature. Remove quinces from liquid with a slotted spoon. Strain liquid through a sieve into a bowl; discard solids. Pour liquid over quinces. Refrigerate in an airtight container up to two weeks. Yields approximately 2 pints.

Nancyjo is the Agricultural Marketing Director for Placer County, owner of Food to Dine For and a member of numerous sustainable agricultural associations, along with being on the Boards of PlacerGROWN and the Slow Food Placer Gold Convivium. She can be reached at nancyjor9@placer.ca.gov

Posted by Jennifer Cliff at 8:23 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)

From Susan Purdy's cookbook As Easy As Pie. I add a little lemon juice to the crust with the ice water to ensure flakiness. Also make sure the fat you use for the crust is very cold.

Makes one 9-inch double-crust pie

Crust:
2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter, chilled
3 tablespoons shortening or lard, chilled
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice or unflavored vinegar
5 to 6 tablespoons ice water

Filling:
6 or 7 medium, fairly ripe pears (such as Anjou or Bartlett)
2 to 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup granulated sugar, plus extra for garnish
1/4 cup packed brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 1/2 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca or cornstarch
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, diced
1 to 2 teaspoons milk or cream

To make the Crust: In a large bowl, toss together the flour and salt. Have the ice water ready. Cut the butter and shortening into 1/2-inch cubes and use your fingers or a pastry blender to cut the fat into the flour. Continue blending until there are pieces the size of peas and corn. Drizzle in the lemon juice, tossing the ingredients together, then begin drizzling in the water. Toss thoroughly, but don't squash the mixture, until it begins to hold together. Set it aside for 5 minutes for the liquid to soak in, or form the dough into a disk on waxed paper, wrap well, and refrigerate for up to 1 day.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Roll out two-thrids of the dough between pieces of waxed paper until it is about 11 inches in diameter. Peel off the top sheet of paper, invert the dough over a 9-inch pie plate, and peel off the bottom sheet of paper. Ease the dough into the pan without stretching it, so that it fits into the corners. Use a paring knife to trim the edge to 3/4 inch beyond the pan edge. Refrigerate the crust. Roll out the remaining dough and scraps from the bottom crust, as above, until it is about 10 inches in diameter. Refrigerate the crust between the sheets of waxed paper.

To make the Filling: Peel, core, and slice the pears 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick and toss them in a large bowl with the lemon juice as you work. Add the 2 sugars, spices, and tapioca and toss well. Pour the filling into the refrigerated pie crust and scatter the diced butter on top. Peel off 1 sheet of paper from the top crust, invert it over the filling, and peel off the other sheet of paper. Fold the lip of the bottom crust together with the top crust to form a "wall" of crust at the edge. Crimp or pleat this edge as desired. Cut 3 or 4 slits in the top crust. You can refrigerate it at this point for several hours or bake right away. Before baking, brush the top crust lightly with milk or cream and scatter lightly with granulated sugar.

Bake the pie on the bottom rack of the oven for 12 minutes. Lower the temperature to 350 degrees, move the pie to the middle rack, and bake for 30 to 35 minutes longer, until the pastry is golden brown. You might also insert a knife into one of the slits to make sure the pears are tender. Mask the edges of the pastry with aluminum foil if they begin to get too dark before the filling is done. Remove the pie to a cooling rack and cool for at least 3 hours before slicing. When it is cool, wrap it well and store at room temperature.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 12:33 PM | Permalink | Comments (4)

This is a rotten time of year to have a cold, but I guess it's better than during the rainy season. In any case, I always crave Thai Tom Yum soup when I've got a head cold. I order it medium spicy (at least) and have them add chicken (Gai). Last night I got the delicious version ($7.95 for a quart) from Taste of Thai on Broadway, but many restaurants around here do it well. Note the nice thick slice of chile pepper and Vitamin-rich tomatoes in this version though!

If you aren't a fan of Tom Yum soup (or even if you are), try this recipe from my upcoming book:

Gingerrific Chicken Soup

Hands Off: 30 minutes

I developed this recipe to help soothe a cold, but it’s also good for easing the effects of allergies. Spicy ginger, combined with vitamin C–rich potatoes and lime, immune-boosting shiitake mushrooms, and vitamin A–packed carrots make this soup practically medicinal. Luckily, it’s also delicious and lower in salt than canned soup—so don’t limit it to days when you’re sick. The soup freezes well, so you might as well make a big batch. However, if you want to halve it, cook it for just 30 minutes.

Serves 6 to 8

2 quarts chicken broth
About 1 1/4 pounds boneless, skinless chicken tenders
1 pound new red potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
2 cups baby carrots, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
4 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced, or 1 ounce dried shiitakes, rinsed and chopped
Grated zest and juice of 1 lime
2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Pour the broth into a large pot. Slice the chicken into bite-sized pieces and add to the broth along with the potatoes, carrots, mushrooms, lime zest and juice, ginger, salt, and pepper.

2. Set the pot over medium-low heat with the lid slightly ajar and simmer for 40 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through and the potatoes are tender. Serve immediately or freeze and heat up as needed to soothe a cold.

Hands-Off Technique: To easily peel fresh ginger, use the edge of a spoon to scrape off just the papery skin.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 2:57 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

Hands off: 35 minutes

You can’t get much faster than this versatile crisp. Practically any fruit works well in this—fresh or frozen. I like to use pears, apricots, or mixed berries. If you do use berries, though, substitute white sugar for the brown in the filling.

Serves 4 to 6

5 cups fresh or frozen fruit (about 2 pounds), halved or sliced if large
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Crisp Topping
1/2 cup oatmeal
1/3 cup unsalted nuts
1/4 cup packed light brown sugar
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut into chunks
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. In a large bowl, toss together the fruit, sugar, flour, and cinnamon until the fruit is well coated. Pour it into a 9-inch pie plate or casserole.
3. In a food processor, combine the oatmeal, nuts, sugar, butter, flour, cinnamon, and salt. Pulse just until the butter is pea sized. Sprinkle the topping evenly over the fruit.
4. Bake until the crisp is bubbling and the topping is brown, about 35 minutes.

   Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 2:03 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Hands off: 30 minutes

I love to eat soufflés, and one of my favorite recipes is in the classic cookbook The Enchanted Broccoli Forest by Mollie Katzen. However, soufflés are not exactly Hands Off, so I developed this quiche version. You can certainly make your own crust, but the frozen deep-dish crusts in most grocery stores work very well for this. I’ve also made the recipe with soy milk before and it was just as good. Note that there is a waiting time at the end of cooking for the custard to firm up before you can cut it.

Serves 4 to 6

1 pear
3 large eggs
1 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/4 cup packed shredded fontina or Monterey Jack cheese
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
One 9-inch deep-dish pie crust, frozen

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
   
2. On a grater with large holes, grate the pear, skin and all, stopping short of the core on each side.
   
3. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, salt, and cinnamon. Stir in the pear and the Fontina cheese. Pour the mixture into the crust and top it with the Parmesan cheese.
   
4. Bake the quiche for 30 minutes, or until it is puffed and golden. The center will still be a little wobbly, which is okay. Remove the quiche to a cooling rack or trivet and let it sit for 30 minutes before you cut it. Serve it warm or refrigerate it and eat it cold for a refreshing lunch or breakfast treat!
   

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 1:53 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Hands off: 10 minutes

Pears and blue cheese are a natural flavor combination, complemented here by toasted walnuts and—the surprise ingredient—honey. This is not a dessert pizza, but a wonderful change of pace from the usual tomato sauce version. Use unbaked pizza dough available in many grocery stores or buy it from your favorite pizza place. You can also use a prebaked pizza shell to cut the prep time even further.
Serves 4

1 pound unbaked pizza dough or a large prebaked shell
1/2 cup shredded mozzarella
1 medium pear, very thinly sliced
1/3 cup thinly sliced sweet onion, like Walla Walla or Vidalia
1 teaspoon dried thyme or 2 teaspoons fresh
1/4 cup walnut pieces
1/3 cup crumbled blue cheese
Honey

1. Preheat the oven to 500°F. Insert a baking stone if you have one, or prepare a baking sheet lined with parchment.

2. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough into a 12- to 14-inch circle. Transfer it to the baking sheet or a pizza peel scattered with cornmeal. Top it evenly with the mozzarella, then the pear, onion, thyme, walnuts, and blue cheese.

3. Put the baking sheet in the oven or transfer the pizza to the baking stone and bake it for 10 minutes, until the edges and bottom are browned and the cheese is melted. Drizzle the surface lightly with honey, cut the pizza into slices, and serve immediately.
   

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 1:49 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

Demonstrated today at the State Fair

Honey Chutney
1 pear, cored and coarsely chopped
½ cup (about 10) chopped dried apricots
½ cup (about 8) chopped stemmed dried figs
1/3 cup alfalfa honey
¼ cup fresh orange juice
¼ cup white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger
2 cloves garlic, minced
¼ to ½ teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon salt

12 slices (8 ounces) bacon
8 slices whole wheat bread
6 ounces sliced sharp Cheddar

For the chutney: Combine all the ingredients in a heavy, nonreactive pot over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 20 minutes, until the mixture resembles preserves. Stir every few minutes to prevent sticking. Add a little water if the mixture gets too dry. Makes 1 ½ cups.

For the sandwiches: Cook the bacon until very crisp and drain on paper towels. Toast the bread. For each sandwich, layer 1 ½ ounces cheese, 3 slices of bacon broken in half, and 2 tablespoons chutney on a slice of toast and top with another toast slice. Cut in half and serve warm.

Makes 4 sandwiches

Note: Use any leftover chutney on more sandwiches or on grilled or roasted meat.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 6:19 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

This could be an appetizer or a dessert. It is subtly sweet and great for making ahead of time.

1 box (17.3 ounces) frozen puff pastry
1 pear, cored and quartered
1 lemon, zested and juiced
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sage honey, divided
8 ounces cream cheese
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 eggs
½ cup chopped hazelnuts
Baking spray

Remove puff pastry from the freezer 30 minutes before using. Preheat the oven to 400° F.

Slice pear quarters horizontally into thin slices. Combine the pears, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and 1 tablespoon honey in a small bowl. Reserve another 1 tablespoon honey in a small heatproof bowl.

Use a mixer to beat the cream cheese until smooth. Scrape down the sides and add the honey, flour, and lemon zest. Mix until smooth. Add the eggs, scrape down the sides again, and mix until very smooth.

Cut the pastry sheets into 9 squares. Spray a muffin tin with baking spray. Carefully fit 1 square into each muffin cup. Fill each cup with 2 tablespoons cheese mixture. Fan 3 or 4 slices of pear over each and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon hazelnuts. Repeat with the remaining pastry squares and filling. Freeze for 10 to 15 minutes to firm the pastry, or wrap well and refrigerate until needed, up to 1 day.

Unwrap and bake the cold tarts until the pastry is lightly browned and the cheese is puffed, about 20 minutes. Microwave the reserved honey for 5 seconds on High and drizzle the tarts with warm honey.

Let the tarts sit 10 to 15 minutes before serving, or refrigerate and reheat them in a 350° F oven for 10 minutes.

Makes 18 tarts

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 12:40 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Recipe courtesy the California Pear Advisory Board

Vinaigrette
4 tablespoons sesame oil
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon fresh chopped ginger
1 teaspoon prepared mustard
Salt and pepper to taste

Salad
4 ounces mâche
2 California Bartlett Pears, quartered, cored and cut into thin slices
1 avocado, cut into 1-inch cubes
4 small purple bunching onions or scallions, cut in half lengthwise
and grilled

In a small bowl, blend all the vinaigrette ingredients together thoroughly.

In a large bowl, toss the mâche with half the dressing. In a smaller bowl, toss the pears, avocado, and onion with the remaining dressing. Arrange the Mâche on salad plates and top salad with the pear, avocado and onion mixture. Enjoy!

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 12:31 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Hands Off: 25 minutes

Calzones are essentially a larger version of empanadas, which are little meat pies made all over South America and the Caribbean. You’ll often find them made there with beef and onions, olives, or peppers. The Argentineans like to add fruit like pears and peaches, though, and I like the idea of a fruit and poultry combination. These are a nice change from the typical tomato sauce and cheese filling of most calzones. The Asian pear adds extra crunchiness, but a regular firm pear works well too.

Serves 2 to 4

12 ounces ground chicken or turkey
1 small firm pear, cored and diced
1/2 cup diced onion
1/2 cup diced bell pepper
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for garnish
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
All-purpose flour, for kneading
1 pound refrigerated or frozen, thawed pizza dough

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F with a pizza stone inside if you have one. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the chicken, pear, onion, bell pepper, cilantro, the 2 tablespoons oil, the juice, garlic, salt, and pepper. Mix well to distribute the ingredients, but don’t squash the meat.

3. On a well-floured work surface, cut the dough into 2 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a round about 8 inches in diameter. Place half of the meat mixture on one half of each round, leaving a 3/4-inch margin at the edge. Dab the edge with water, then fold over the round and press the edges together. Fold over the edges on top of themselves and press firmly again. Put the calzones on the prepared pan. Cut 2 slits in the top of each calzone. Transfer the pan to the oven, or slide the calzones onto the preheated pizza stone.

4. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the calzones are golden brown. Drizzle with more olive oil before serving.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 12:27 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

GRILLED PEACHES OR NECTARINES WITH ICE CREAM AND TOASTED ALMONDS
When stone fruit is in season, try it in this quick and unusual form. Choose slightly firm peaches or nectarines so that they don't get too soft when cooked. A perfect summer dessert!

4 large, ripe peaches, pitted and peeled
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pint vanilla ice cream
1/2 cup toasted almonds

Prepare a fire in a charcoal or wood grill or preheat a gas grill. Rub the grill with a little of the olive oil, and sprinkle the peaches with the remainder. Place the peaches cut side down on the grill, searing them until grid marks appear, about 3 to 4 minutes. Turn and sear the other side until the peach is heated through, another 2 to 3 minutes.

Remove to dessert plates and serve with the ice cream and the toasted almonds

Serves 4

Posted by Jennifer Cliff at 4:24 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

This is a great way to try a variety of colors and types of heirloom tomatoes. Choose the ripest ones available. To make this vegetarian, leave out the chicken or add another summer vegetable to the mix, like zucchini or eggplant.

3 pounds mixed heirloom tomatoes
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 teaspoons red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup chopped basil leaves, plus a few small whole leaves or sprigs for garnish
3 cups day-old bread cubes from baguette, pain au levain or other country-style bread
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 cup homemade bread crumbs
1 teaspoon thyme leaves, minced
3 boneless chicken breast halves, cut into 1-inch cubes
Canola or other light vegetable oil for frying

Cut the tomatoes into 1-inch cubes. In the bottom of a large salad bowl, add 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, the vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, and 1/2 teaspoon of the pepper. Mix with a fork, then add the tomatoes and chopped basil, turning several times. Set aside.

Heat the remaining olive oil in a frying pan over medium high heat. When it is hot, add the bread cubes, and fry them, turning them, until nearly gold, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and continue to fry the bread until golden, another minute or two. Remove the croutons and the garlic to paper towels to drain.

In a bowl, mix together the bread crumbs, the remaining salt, pepper, and thyme leaves. Pour this onto a plate or a sheet of waxed paper.
In a large frying pan, pour vegetable oil to cover by 1-inch. Heat the oil over medium high heat until it is hot.

While the oil is heating, roll the chicken in the seasoned bread crumbs.
When the oil is hot, fry the chicken until golden all sides, about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove to paper towels to drain. Repeat until all the chicken is cooked. Add the still-hot chicken to the salad along with the croutons and the garlic and turn gently. Garnish with the basil leaves or sprigs. Serve immediately.

Serves 4 to 6

Posted by Jennifer Cliff at 4:23 PM | Permalink

Baking salmon is a great option for avoiding the mess of grilling or pan frying. Try to find wild salmon from the Pacific Northwest for the best flavor and sustainability.

Preheat oven to 500F. Cut salmon fillets into pieces weighing about 6 oz each (about 2-3" across, depending on thickness). Drizzle olive oil into a heavy baking tray. Place salmon pieces skin side up on the tray to coat them in oil, then flip them over. Salt and pepper freely and place in the very hot oven.

Cook 4 to 6 minutes, depending on thickness, then check for doneness. Salmon is perfect when it is cooked ¾ through. If inside is still too undercooked, return to the oven for one minute at a time. Remember that it will continue to cook a little once removed from the oven, and you don't want to overcook truly fresh salmon!

Serve with a wedge of lemon.

Posted by Jennifer Cliff at 1:15 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)