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December 6, 2007

Chocolate Pepper Snaps and Coconut Macaroons

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What time is it? It's cookie time! (Although, frankly, every day is cookie time in my opinion.) But for those of you who don't bake until the holidays, then get out your pans and spatulas and whip up a couple of these babies.

Both of these cookies were traded recently at a cookie exchange I attended. I took the Chocolate Pepper Snaps, a recipe made for decades in my husband's family that is based on a Ghirardelli recipe booklet from 1969. We've added a dash of cayenne over the years and a sprinkle of sugar on top for eye appeal. The original recipe called for the Ghirardelli Ground Chocolate, which was coarser than cocoa and included sugar. However, I just use high-quality unsweetened cocoa in my cookies so that they aren't overly sweet.

One of my favorites that I brought home from the exchange was a chocolate-dipped coconut macaroon from Kim Bedwell. I'm a big fan of coconut (as is Kim), and these were tasty and moist. I suggested adding a bit of coconut milk or--dare I say it--coconut cream in place of some of the sweetened condensed milk. Or, I have powdered coconut milk that I found in Sri Lanka. Maybe one of the Asian markets here carries something like that? If you're going to go coconutty, you might as well go all the way!

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July 6, 2007

Eating in a Heat Wave

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What is with this heat? How can you bear to eat anything but ice cream when it's this hot? (Not that I discourage that desire, of course.) But if you want to eat something that isn't sweet, have I got a tip for you--Charleston Chicken-Pecan Salad. It's from my cookbook and I've made at least four batches in the last two weeks, with the ingredients for another double batch just waiting in the kitchen. I'm telling you, it's easy and flavorful and perfect to make ahead. Take it to your next potluck or just whip up a batch and have dinner and lunch settled for the weekend.

And here's the headnote from the book:
My cousin Dan got married in Charleston, South Carolina, and they served a delicious chicken-pecan salad with apples at the reception. It inspired me to make this recipe, which uses canned chicken, much like tuna salad. I usually like a chunkier chicken salad, with lots of roasted or grilled chicken. But the canned chicken and smoother consistency are more like the original in Charleston and make it easy to spread on bread for sandwiches; try Irish Soda Bread. This also makes a good hors d’oeuvre spread on crackers or bread rounds.

Hands Off: 15 minutes
Serves 6 as a sandwich spread

Three 5-ounce cans chicken breast meat without salt, drained, or about 10 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1/2 Granny Smith green apple
1/2 cup (2 ounces) finely chopped pecans
1/2 cup Miracle Whip or similar salad dressing (zestier than mayonnaise)
2 scallions, thinly sliced, including 4 inches of green parts
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon dry mustard

1. If using chicken breasts, poach them in simmering water for 12 to 15 minutes, or until just opaque throughout. Drain and cool briefly, then finely chop the meat in a food processor.

2. Using the large holes of a box grater, shred the unpeeled apple down to the core.

3. In a large bowl, combine the apple, chicken, pecans, dressing, scallions, lemon juice, and mustard. Mix well to break up the chicken and distribute the ingredients. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

4. Let stand for 15 minutes to allow the flavors to come together, or cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days. Spread on slices of bread and serve as sandwiches.

Note: I made a great batch of this recently using Trader Joe's 12 1/2-ounce cans of chicken. I used two cans and the following other ingredient amounts: 1 apple, 3 ounces pistachios (toasted), 2/3 cup mayo, 3 scallions, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, about 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard. Delicious!

Also Note: There's been a date change on the cooking series that I'm teaching. The Indian cooking class will now be on Saturday, August 25. If you pay ahead for this or either of the other classes, you'll get a signed copy of the Hands-Off cookbook! Plus food to taste. Mmmmmm.

January 26, 2007

Passionfruit-Coconut Cupcakes

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Two weeks ago, Garrett, of Vanilla Garlic fame, posted a challenge to come up with a new cupcake. He and many other people these days are cuckoo for cupcakes. As someone who had cupcakes at my wedding instead of a big cake, I completely understand. They're perfect single servings, you can really be clever with flavor combinations, and you can try lots of different toppings with just one batch of cakes. Plus, they remind most of us of childhood birthday parties and bake sales. Just look at all the bakeries that sell them now (Phillipp's is a good example here).

So with my recent Hawaiian getaway, I got inspired to make a cupcake with tropical flavors. For some reason, I got fixated on passionfruit. It's certainly not local to this area, but you can buy purees and nectars of passionfruit sometimes. I found the nectar at Safeway (in the "natural foods" aisle), where they have the Ceres brand of juices in many other tropical flavors. I simply substituted passionfruit juice for the milk in my favorite 1-2-3-4 cake recipe from Susan Purdy's classic cookbook A Piece of Cake. (Unbelievably, you can buy this incredible book through amazon for as little as $2.73. I think it's out of print, so don't miss out. I use the book all the time.)

I used coconut milk (unsweetened) and a bit of coconut milk powder, which I had left from my last tropical trip to Sri Lanka, in the icing. But even the canned milk gave it plenty of flavor with the addition of toasted coconut on top. If I make this again, I'd try to source passionfruit puree for a stronger flavor, or else brush the warm cupcakes with a syrup made of reduced passionfruit juice. But even with just a hint of that floral flavor, these are yummy!

Passionfruit-Coconut Cupcakes
Makes 24

Cupcakes
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 cups sugar
4 large eggs, separated
1 cup passionfruit nectar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Icing
1 cup sweetened shredded coconut
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 pound powdered sugar
1/4 to 1/3 cup unsweetened coconut milk
2 to 3 tablespoons coconut milk powder (optional)
1/2 teaspoon salt

Line two 12-cup muffin tins with paper liners. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Pour the juice and vanilla into a measuring cup.

In a mixer, beat the butter until soft and smooth. Add the sugar and beat until light and smooth. Add the egg yolks, 1 at a time, beating after each addition. Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl several times.

With the mixer on low speed, alternately add the flour mixture and juice, beginning and ending with the flour.

In another bowl, with a clean whip, beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry. Stir about 1/3 of them into the batter to lighten it, then fold in the remaining whites. Divide the batter evenly between the cupcake liners (they will be almost full). Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the tops are golden and springy and a toothpick inserted in the center of one comes out clean.

Cool in the pans for 10 minutes, then remove the cupcakes to a wire rack to finish cooling.

Meanwhile, make the icing: Spread the coconut in a cake or pie pan and put into the oven to toast until lightly browned, about 10 minutes.

Beat the butter in a mixer until smooth, then gradually begin adding the sugar. After about half of the sugar is added, pour in 1/4 cup coconut milk, beat until smooth, then scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the remaining sugar, the coconut powder (if using), the salt (which you want to balance the sweetness of the coconut), and any additional milk needed to get the texture you like. Ice the cupcakes and sprinkle each one with a bit of toasted coconut.

January 23, 2007

Sam Choy's World-Famous Fried Marlin Poke

This is a bit untraditional in that the fish is briefly seared. You could leave it raw if you prefer, but you need the highest-quality fish available.

Serves 4

1 pound marlin fillets, cut into 1/4- to 3/4-inch cubes [note: you could try ahi or skipjack tuna as substitutes]
4 teaspoons soy sauce
1 cup chopped onion
4 teaspoons chopped green onions
1 cup chopped ogo seaweed (optional)
4 teaspoons sesame oil
4 tablespoons vegetable oil, for searing

Garnishes:
Bean sprouts
Chopped cabbage
Salad greens
Ogo seaweed

Place fish cubes in a mixing bowl with the soy sauce, onions, seaweed, and sesame oil. Mix well.

In a wok, heat the vegetable oil on high heat. Sear the fish mixture while tossing. Don't cook for more than a minute or two, as you want the center raw.

Serve with the garnishes.

December 22, 2006

Gingerbread for Admiring and Eating

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'Tis the season to eat gingerbread--and build it into picturesque buildings dripping with sugar icicles and candy roof tiles.

Today and tomorrow, you can see Gingerbread Holidays in Old Sac, a display of handmade gingerbread houses at the Old Sacramento Schoolhouse Museum (Front and L Sts.). The display is open for viewing from 1 to 4 both days. (Free; 916-558-3912)

Or, you might want to bake up some gingerbread that you can eat. The recipe that my family has made for more than 30 years comes from Betty Crocker's Picture Cookbook (1956 edition). With the retro title of "Gingerbread Boys: Make Holidays Gayer Than Ever" (no wonder there were no gingerbread girls!), this makes a chewy-soft gingerbread cookie rather than a crisp one. We've been known to decorate ours as ballerinas, dolphins, and clowns. So gather up a bunch of cookie cutters, powdered sugar for icing (plus food coloring), and some small clean paintbrushes reserved only for food. Kids especially like this project. You just have to keep them from eating all the dough before it gets baked. My tip? Double the batch so there's enough to give, keep, and eat. Happy holidays!

Continue reading "Gingerbread for Admiring and Eating" »

December 5, 2006

Rock the Casbah

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I joined the Sacramento Epicurians group recently, just in time for their 3rd anniversary Morrocan dinner. The Epicurians is a loose group of people (over 250 belong), who meet once a month to eat at a local restaurant and socialize. This past Friday, 61 people gathered for a meal at Marrakech restaurant, just off of Arden Way.

We were all seated in the back room, which is decorated to look like a large North African tent, complete with flocked wallpaper and decorative hangings. The small, round tables skirted the room, with seating on upholstered stools, poofy beanbag-like seats, and a banquette along the wall. People on the beanbags had the best angle in relation to the table. The rest of us were rather hunched over.

The group leader had arranged a multi-course meal that was eaten almost entirely with your hands, in the traditional way. Waiters in colorful baggy trousers and pointed-toe shoes came around with warm water, which they poured out of a brass pitcher while we held our hands over a tureen to catch the water. We had fluffy hand towels to use, although I felt a bit odd using mine as a napkin too. I kept trying not to get it dirty, which is difficult when you're eating with your fingers!

Continue reading "Rock the Casbah" »

Bistilla (Moroccan Meat Pie)

Hands Off: 30 minutes

A classic bistilla is made with layers of phyllo dough encasing a fragrantly spiced meat mixture—often pigeon. You might also find whole hard-boiled eggs inside, and the top is always dusted with confectioners’ sugar and cinnamon. Since phyllo can be hard to work with, I have substituted frozen puff pastry here. This meat pie makes a very dramatic presentation, perfect for a dinner party or holiday. It is a sweet/savory balancing act that pairs well with a semi-dry white wine like Riesling.

Serves 6

1/2 cup (2 ounces) whole almonds, toasted
3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar, divided
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, divided
3 large eggs
1 pound ground turkey
1 cup diced onion
2/3 cup raisins
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon ground ginger
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
Pinch of saffron threads
One 17.3-ounce package puff pastry, thawed in the refrigerator

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. In a food processor, combine the almonds, 2 tablespoons of the sugar, and 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon. Pulse a few times so that there are still chunks of almonds for crunchiness.

3. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until blended. Take out 1 tablespoon of the eggs and put it in a small dish; set aside. To the remaining eggs, add the turkey, onion, raisins, cilantro, garlic, lemon juice, ginger, salt, pepper, coriander, and saffron. Mix thoroughly to distribute the spices without squashing the meat.

4. Unfold 1 piece of pastry, place it on the prepared pan, and roll it lightly with a rolling pin to smooth the seams. Be careful not to compress the edges. Spread 1/4 cup of the almond mixture over the center of the pastry, then top with half of the turkey mixture. Form the turkey into a log about 3 1/2 inches wide, leaving at 1-inch border at either end of the pastry. Fold 1 long side of the pastry over the turkey. Moisten the other long side with the reserved egg, then fold the other half of the pastry over and press it to seal against the moistened edge. Moisten the ends and press them together as well. Use the parchment to roll the packet, seam-side down, toward one end of the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining ingredients, making another packet and rolling it to sit at least 2 inches from the other one.

5. Use the tip of a knife to poke 3 holes in the top of each pastry. Bake the bistilla for 30 minutes, until they are puffed and brown. Combine the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar and 1 teaspoon cinnamon and sift them over the top of the rolls. Present the whole rolls and then cut each one in thirds to serve.

November 10, 2006

PlacerGROWN Quince Recipe

After seeing our post on PlacerGROWN Nancyjo who is the current director, graciously sent us a recipe that she adapted from Cooking Light. Thanks Nancy! This sounds like a perfect thanksgiving condiment to me.

Poached Quinces

You might want to double this recipe as you discover the fascinating flavor when served on polenta with blue cheese, or with roasted chicken or spread on really good whole-wheat toast for breakfast.

4 cups water
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
1 cinnamon stick
1 tablespoon whole cloves
1 julienne-cut lemon rind
4 cored peeled quinces, quartered (1 ¾ pounds)

Bring first 6 ingredients to a boil in a Dutch oven, and cook 2 minutes. Add quinces; reduce heat, and simmer 45 minutes or until tender, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat, and cool to room temperature. Remove quinces from liquid with a slotted spoon. Strain liquid through a sieve into a bowl; discard solids. Pour liquid over quinces. Refrigerate in an airtight container up to two weeks. Yields approximately 2 pints.

Nancyjo is the Agricultural Marketing Director for Placer County, owner of Food to Dine For and a member of numerous sustainable agricultural associations, along with being on the Boards of PlacerGROWN and the Slow Food Placer Gold Convivium. She can be reached at nancyjor9@placer.ca.gov

November 6, 2006

Pear-Cardamom Pie

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From Susan Purdy's cookbook As Easy As Pie. I add a little lemon juice to the crust with the ice water to ensure flakiness. Also make sure the fat you use for the crust is very cold.

Makes one 9-inch double-crust pie

Crust:
2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter, chilled
3 tablespoons shortening or lard, chilled
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice or unflavored vinegar
5 to 6 tablespoons ice water

Filling:
6 or 7 medium, fairly ripe pears (such as Anjou or Bartlett)
2 to 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup granulated sugar, plus extra for garnish
1/4 cup packed brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 1/2 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca or cornstarch
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, diced
1 to 2 teaspoons milk or cream

To make the Crust: In a large bowl, toss together the flour and salt. Have the ice water ready. Cut the butter and shortening into 1/2-inch cubes and use your fingers or a pastry blender to cut the fat into the flour. Continue blending until there are pieces the size of peas and corn. Drizzle in the lemon juice, tossing the ingredients together, then begin drizzling in the water. Toss thoroughly, but don't squash the mixture, until it begins to hold together. Set it aside for 5 minutes for the liquid to soak in, or form the dough into a disk on waxed paper, wrap well, and refrigerate for up to 1 day.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Roll out two-thrids of the dough between pieces of waxed paper until it is about 11 inches in diameter. Peel off the top sheet of paper, invert the dough over a 9-inch pie plate, and peel off the bottom sheet of paper. Ease the dough into the pan without stretching it, so that it fits into the corners. Use a paring knife to trim the edge to 3/4 inch beyond the pan edge. Refrigerate the crust. Roll out the remaining dough and scraps from the bottom crust, as above, until it is about 10 inches in diameter. Refrigerate the crust between the sheets of waxed paper.

To make the Filling: Peel, core, and slice the pears 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick and toss them in a large bowl with the lemon juice as you work. Add the 2 sugars, spices, and tapioca and toss well. Pour the filling into the refrigerated pie crust and scatter the diced butter on top. Peel off 1 sheet of paper from the top crust, invert it over the filling, and peel off the other sheet of paper. Fold the lip of the bottom crust together with the top crust to form a "wall" of crust at the edge. Crimp or pleat this edge as desired. Cut 3 or 4 slits in the top crust. You can refrigerate it at this point for several hours or bake right away. Before baking, brush the top crust lightly with milk or cream and scatter lightly with granulated sugar.

Bake the pie on the bottom rack of the oven for 12 minutes. Lower the temperature to 350 degrees, move the pie to the middle rack, and bake for 30 to 35 minutes longer, until the pastry is golden brown. You might also insert a knife into one of the slits to make sure the pears are tender. Mask the edges of the pastry with aluminum foil if they begin to get too dark before the filling is done. Remove the pie to a cooling rack and cool for at least 3 hours before slicing. When it is cool, wrap it well and store at room temperature.

October 27, 2006

Best Cure for an Indian Summer Cold

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This is a rotten time of year to have a cold, but I guess it's better than during the rainy season. In any case, I always crave Thai Tom Yum soup when I've got a head cold. I order it medium spicy (at least) and have them add chicken (Gai). Last night I got the delicious version ($7.95 for a quart) from Taste of Thai on Broadway, but many restaurants around here do it well. Note the nice thick slice of chile pepper and Vitamin-rich tomatoes in this version though!

If you aren't a fan of Tom Yum soup (or even if you are), try this recipe from my upcoming book:

Gingerrific Chicken Soup

Hands Off: 30 minutes

I developed this recipe to help soothe a cold, but it’s also good for easing the effects of allergies. Spicy ginger, combined with vitamin C–rich potatoes and lime, immune-boosting shiitake mushrooms, and vitamin A–packed carrots make this soup practically medicinal. Luckily, it’s also delicious and lower in salt than canned soup—so don’t limit it to days when you’re sick. The soup freezes well, so you might as well make a big batch. However, if you want to halve it, cook it for just 30 minutes.

Serves 6 to 8

2 quarts chicken broth
About 1 1/4 pounds boneless, skinless chicken tenders
1 pound new red potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
2 cups baby carrots, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
4 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced, or 1 ounce dried shiitakes, rinsed and chopped
Grated zest and juice of 1 lime
2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Pour the broth into a large pot. Slice the chicken into bite-sized pieces and add to the broth along with the potatoes, carrots, mushrooms, lime zest and juice, ginger, salt, and pepper.

2. Set the pot over medium-low heat with the lid slightly ajar and simmer for 40 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through and the potatoes are tender. Serve immediately or freeze and heat up as needed to soothe a cold.

Hands-Off Technique: To easily peel fresh ginger, use the edge of a spoon to scrape off just the papery skin.

September 2, 2006

Fruit Crisp

Hands off: 35 minutes

You can’t get much faster than this versatile crisp. Practically any fruit works well in this—fresh or frozen. I like to use pears, apricots, or mixed berries. If you do use berries, though, substitute white sugar for the brown in the filling.

Serves 4 to 6

5 cups fresh or frozen fruit (about 2 pounds), halved or sliced if large
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Crisp Topping
1/2 cup oatmeal
1/3 cup unsalted nuts
1/4 cup packed light brown sugar
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut into chunks
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
  2. In a large bowl, toss together the fruit, sugar, flour, and cinnamon until the fruit is well coated. Pour it into a 9-inch pie plate or casserole.
  3. In a food processor, combine the oatmeal, nuts, sugar, butter, flour, cinnamon, and salt. Pulse just until the butter is pea sized. Sprinkle the topping evenly over the fruit.
  4. Bake until the crisp is bubbling and the topping is brown, about 35 minutes.

Cheesy Pear Quiche

Hands off: 30 minutes

I love to eat soufflés, and one of my favorite recipes is in the classic cookbook The Enchanted Broccoli Forest by Mollie Katzen. However, soufflés are not exactly Hands Off, so I developed this quiche version. You can certainly make your own crust, but the frozen deep-dish crusts in most grocery stores work very well for this. I’ve also made the recipe with soy milk before and it was just as good. Note that there is a waiting time at the end of cooking for the custard to firm up before you can cut it.

Serves 4 to 6

1 pear
3 large eggs
1 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/4 cup packed shredded fontina or Monterey Jack cheese
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
One 9-inch deep-dish pie crust, frozen



  1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
  2. On a grater with large holes, grate the pear, skin and all, stopping short of the core on each side.
  3. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, salt, and cinnamon. Stir in the pear and the Fontina cheese. Pour the mixture into the crust and top it with the Parmesan cheese.
  4. Bake the quiche for 30 minutes, or until it is puffed and golden. The center will still be a little wobbly, which is okay. Remove the quiche to a cooling rack or trivet and let it sit for 30 minutes before you cut it. Serve it warm or refrigerate it and eat it cold for a refreshing lunch or breakfast treat!

Pear–Blue Cheese Pizza

Hands off: 10 minutes

Pears and blue cheese are a natural flavor combination, complemented here by toasted walnuts and—the surprise ingredient—honey. This is not a dessert pizza, but a wonderful change of pace from the usual tomato sauce version. Use unbaked pizza dough available in many grocery stores or buy it from your favorite pizza place. You can also use a prebaked pizza shell to cut the prep time even further.
Serves 4

1 pound unbaked pizza dough or a large prebaked shell
1/2 cup shredded mozzarella
1 medium pear, very thinly sliced
1/3 cup thinly sliced sweet onion, like Walla Walla or Vidalia
1 teaspoon dried thyme or 2 teaspoons fresh
1/4 cup walnut pieces
1/3 cup crumbled blue cheese
Honey

  1. Preheat the oven to 500°F. Insert a baking stone if you have one, or prepare a baking sheet lined with parchment.

  2. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough into a 12- to 14-inch circle. Transfer it to the baking sheet or a pizza peel scattered with cornmeal. Top it evenly with the mozzarella, then the pear, onion, thyme, walnuts, and blue cheese.

  3. Put the baking sheet in the oven or transfer the pizza to the baking stone and bake it for 10 minutes, until the edges and bottom are browned and the cheese is melted. Drizzle the surface lightly with honey, cut the pizza into slices, and serve immediately.

August 23, 2006

Cheese and Bacon Sandwiches with Honey Chutney

Demonstrated today at the State Fair

Honey Chutney
1 pear, cored and coarsely chopped
½ cup (about 10) chopped dried apricots
½ cup (about 8) chopped stemmed dried figs
1/3 cup alfalfa honey
¼ cup fresh orange juice
¼ cup white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger
2 cloves garlic, minced
¼ to ½ teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon salt

12 slices (8 ounces) bacon
8 slices whole wheat bread
6 ounces sliced sharp Cheddar

For the chutney: Combine all the ingredients in a heavy, nonreactive pot over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 20 minutes, until the mixture resembles preserves. Stir every few minutes to prevent sticking. Add a little water if the mixture gets too dry. Makes 1 ½ cups.

For the sandwiches: Cook the bacon until very crisp and drain on paper towels. Toast the bread. For each sandwich, layer 1 ½ ounces cheese, 3 slices of bacon broken in half, and 2 tablespoons chutney on a slice of toast and top with another toast slice. Cut in half and serve warm.

Makes 4 sandwiches

Note: Use any leftover chutney on more sandwiches or on grilled or roasted meat.


August 17, 2006

Pear-Cheese Tarts with Honey and Hazelnuts

This could be an appetizer or a dessert. It is subtly sweet and great for making ahead of time.

1 box (17.3 ounces) frozen puff pastry
1 pear, cored and quartered
1 lemon, zested and juiced
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sage honey, divided
8 ounces cream cheese
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 eggs
½ cup chopped hazelnuts
Baking spray

Remove puff pastry from the freezer 30 minutes before using. Preheat the oven to 400° F.

Slice pear quarters horizontally into thin slices. Combine the pears, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and 1 tablespoon honey in a small bowl. Reserve another 1 tablespoon honey in a small heatproof bowl.

Use a mixer to beat the cream cheese until smooth. Scrape down the sides and add the honey, flour, and lemon zest. Mix until smooth. Add the eggs, scrape down the sides again, and mix until very smooth.

Cut the pastry sheets into 9 squares. Spray a muffin tin with baking spray. Carefully fit 1 square into each muffin cup. Fill each cup with 2 tablespoons cheese mixture. Fan 3 or 4 slices of pear over each and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon hazelnuts. Repeat with the remaining pastry squares and filling. Freeze for 10 to 15 minutes to firm the pastry, or wrap well and refrigerate until needed, up to 1 day.

Unwrap and bake the cold tarts until the pastry is lightly browned and the cheese is puffed, about 20 minutes. Microwave the reserved honey for 5 seconds on High and drizzle the tarts with warm honey.

Let the tarts sit 10 to 15 minutes before serving, or refrigerate and reheat them in a 350° F oven for 10 minutes.

Makes 18 tarts

Mâche, Pear, and Avocado Salad

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Recipe courtesy the California Pear Advisory Board

Vinaigrette
4 tablespoons sesame oil
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon fresh chopped ginger
1 teaspoon prepared mustard
Salt and pepper to taste

Salad
4 ounces mâche
2 California Bartlett Pears, quartered, cored and cut into thin slices
1 avocado, cut into 1-inch cubes
4 small purple bunching onions or scallions, cut in half lengthwise
and grilled

In a small bowl, blend all the vinaigrette ingredients together thoroughly.

In a large bowl, toss the mâche with half the dressing. In a smaller bowl, toss the pears, avocado, and onion with the remaining dressing. Arrange the Mâche on salad plates and top salad with the pear, avocado and onion mixture. Enjoy!

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Chicken-Pear Calzones

Hands Off: 25 minutes

Calzones are essentially a larger version of empanadas, which are little meat pies made all over South America and the Caribbean. You’ll often find them made there with beef and onions, olives, or peppers. The Argentineans like to add fruit like pears and peaches, though, and I like the idea of a fruit and poultry combination. These are a nice change from the typical tomato sauce and cheese filling of most calzones. The Asian pear adds extra crunchiness, but a regular firm pear works well too.

Serves 2 to 4

12 ounces ground chicken or turkey
1 small firm pear, cored and diced
1/2 cup diced onion
1/2 cup diced bell pepper
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for garnish
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
All-purpose flour, for kneading
1 pound refrigerated or frozen, thawed pizza dough

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F with a pizza stone inside if you have one. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the chicken, pear, onion, bell pepper, cilantro, the 2 tablespoons oil, the juice, garlic, salt, and pepper. Mix well to distribute the ingredients, but don’t squash the meat.

3. On a well-floured work surface, cut the dough into 2 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a round about 8 inches in diameter. Place half of the meat mixture on one half of each round, leaving a 3/4-inch margin at the edge. Dab the edge with water, then fold over the round and press the edges together. Fold over the edges on top of themselves and press firmly again. Put the calzones on the prepared pan. Cut 2 slits in the top of each calzone. Transfer the pan to the oven, or slide the calzones onto the preheated pizza stone.

4. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the calzones are golden brown. Drizzle with more olive oil before serving.

August 14, 2006

Summer Dessert Grilling

GRILLED PEACHES OR NECTARINES WITH ICE CREAM AND TOASTED ALMONDS
When stone fruit is in season, try it in this quick and unusual form. Choose slightly firm peaches or nectarines so that they don't get too soft when cooked. A perfect summer dessert!

4 large, ripe peaches, pitted and peeled
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pint vanilla ice cream
1/2 cup toasted almonds

Prepare a fire in a charcoal or wood grill or preheat a gas grill. Rub the grill with a little of the olive oil, and sprinkle the peaches with the remainder. Place the peaches cut side down on the grill, searing them until grid marks appear, about 3 to 4 minutes. Turn and sear the other side until the peach is heated through, another 2 to 3 minutes.

Remove to dessert plates and serve with the ice cream and the toasted almonds

Serves 4

Heirloom Tomato and Chicken Salad with Homemade Croutons

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This is a great way to try a variety of colors and types of heirloom tomatoes. Choose the ripest ones available. To make this vegetarian, leave out the chicken or add another summer vegetable to the mix, like zucchini or eggplant.

3 pounds mixed heirloom tomatoes
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 teaspoons red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup chopped basil leaves, plus a few small whole leaves or sprigs for garnish
3 cups day-old bread cubes from baguette, pain au levain or other country-style bread
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 cup homemade bread crumbs
1 teaspoon thyme leaves, minced
3 boneless chicken breast halves, cut into 1-inch cubes
Canola or other light vegetable oil for frying

Cut the tomatoes into 1-inch cubes. In the bottom of a large salad bowl, add 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, the vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, and 1/2 teaspoon of the pepper. Mix with a fork, then add the tomatoes and chopped basil, turning several times. Set aside.

Heat the remaining olive oil in a frying pan over medium high heat. When it is hot, add the bread cubes, and fry them, turning them, until nearly gold, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and continue to fry the bread until golden, another minute or two. Remove the croutons and the garlic to paper towels to drain.

In a bowl, mix together the bread crumbs, the remaining salt, pepper, and thyme leaves. Pour this onto a plate or a sheet of waxed paper.
In a large frying pan, pour vegetable oil to cover by 1-inch. Heat the oil over medium high heat until it is hot.

While the oil is heating, roll the chicken in the seasoned bread crumbs.
When the oil is hot, fry the chicken until golden all sides, about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove to paper towels to drain. Repeat until all the chicken is cooked. Add the still-hot chicken to the salad along with the croutons and the garlic and turn gently. Garnish with the basil leaves or sprigs. Serve immediately.

Serves 4 to 6

Oven-Baked Salmon

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Baking salmon is a great option for avoiding the mess of grilling or pan frying. Try to find wild salmon from the Pacific Northwest for the best flavor and sustainability.

Preheat oven to 500F. Cut salmon fillets into pieces weighing about 6 oz each (about 2-3" across, depending on thickness). Drizzle olive oil into a heavy baking tray. Place salmon pieces skin side up on the tray to coat them in oil, then flip them over. Salt and pepper freely and place in the very hot oven.

Cook 4 to 6 minutes, depending on thickness, then check for doneness. Salmon is perfect when it is cooked ¾ through. If inside is still too undercooked, return to the oven for one minute at a time. Remember that it will continue to cook a little once removed from the oven, and you don't want to overcook truly fresh salmon!

Serve with a wedge of lemon.

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