Sacatomato

Cooking with Diana Kennedy

Mon, 16 Jun 2008 12:08:50 -0800

Last Thursday, I got the opportunity to assist cookbook author Diana Kennedy with a presentation for her re-released cookbook The Art of Mexican Cooking It was originally published in 1989, but this new version is slightly redesigned to give more prominence to the area of Mexico from which each recipe comes. Diana demonstrated three recipes that we all got to taste: Tamales de Flor de Calabaza (Squash Flower Tamales), Nopales Salad (Cactus Paddles), and Barbacoa de Pollo (Barbecued Chicken) with Salsa Verde. This is hardly similar to the overcheesy version of "Mexican" food we often get in the States. It was all bursting with color and flavor--rather than just fat. I immediately made a shopping list to prepare the nopales and chicken again this past weekend. Diana has lived in Mexico for 50 years and has written and studied the cuisine extensively. So she's given to some pronouncements, such as, "Use pork lard, please; none of this fancy oil stuff." She was also heard to mutter, "Such a lot of waste" when talking about how people often discard cilantro stems and other perfectly usable (or compostable) parts of food. And she was full of tips and preferences, like her caution to ONLY use hot water when filling a tamale steamer and never to remove the seeds and ribs from fresh chiles. (Unless, of course, you want to make them more mild.) Her recipes are not for the starter cook. You do need some sense of cooking times and textures. But I had great success with my versions of two of her recipes. So I thought you might like to know where her assistants and I bought some of the Mexican ingredients and cooking equipment.

You Can't Get More Local Than Rail Bridge

Fri, 13 Jun 2008 13:52:10 -0800

As Northern Californians, we're pretty spoiled when it comes to wineries within 100 miles. I mean, that gets you to Napa and Sonoma--the wine meccas of the west coast. But since I moved to Sacramento, I've been a big fan of drinking more local wines, including those from Lodi and Clarksburg. Recently, though, I got to try an even more local wine, as in less than 2 miles from downtown. You can't get much more local than that, unless you're making your own. The wines I sipped right next to their barrels, without even leaving the city, are from Rail Bridge Cellars. Sac native Jon Affonso is the owner and winemaker. He finally realized his dream of an urban winery last year when he opened Rail Bridge in an old car body shop (once again, a foodie use for an old auto shop) on N. 16th Street. His first two wines came about when he asked himself, "What does Sacramento want to drink?" Jon took his background in enology from Fresno State, experience making wines in France and California, and did some statistical analysis of the Sacramento market. Thus he chose to release his first two wines: a 2006 Sauvignon Blanc made with Dry Creek Valley fruit and a 2004 Lattice (a blend of 5 Bordeaux varietals) with Napa County fruit. I'm no wine expert, but I drink my fair share and I know what I like. Dry whites are it for me--especially in the hot summers here--and the Rail Bridge Sauvignon is a terrific example. It's fermented in steel tanks and has citrus and green apple flavors. Since he first learned to make wine in France, Jon follows the French tendency toward wines that are great with food--not just for drinking on their own. He likes to pair the Sauvignon with Fish Tacos, Melon Ball Salad, Shrimp or Crab Louis Salad, and Chicken Enchiladas. The Lattice, on the other hand, is a hearty wine aged in French oak barrels (which are amazingly expensive and made by hand). It wasn't so robust that it would overwhelm food with its fruit, though, and Jon likes to serve it with Grilled Salmon, Roasted Chicken, and Grilled Rib Eye Steak with Fries. I had a few questions for him after the tasting, and here's what he said:

Eat, Drink, and Be Learned

Wed, 11 Jun 2008 14:22:30 -0800

Ack! I almost missed this: The 2nd Annual Sacramento Wine & Dine Week It started last Saturday and runs through this Saturday. Many local restaurants are offering 3- and 4-course meals for a set price. Choose from high-end eateries like Biba to casual spots like River City Brewing Company. Click here for the full list of participating restaurants and their menus. You can reserve a table right from that site as well. Get to it to try some places you've been meaning to visit. Coming up this Saturday, June 14: The 6th Annual Grape Escape Sponsored by Raley's, this event will be held at Cesar Chavez Park, 10th and J Streets, from 4 to 7 p.m. More than 100 restaurants and wineries from 8 nearby counties will have samples available. Tickets are $40 ($50 day-of) and you can get $5 off by visiting a Raley's store or their Web site. Sacramento's own Rail Bridge Cellars will be there, along with Clarksburg's Bogle Vineyards & Winery. Don't forget to eat something between sips of wine: Mulvaney's, Enotria, Hawks, and Sweetwater are among the tasty options for nibbles. June 20 at the Sacramento Co-op: the Grill it Up! Tasting Fair and Movie Night 5 to 8 p.m. for the fair (Free); 7 p.m. for the movie ($5 donation requested) 1900 Alhambra Boulvard at S Street As you know, two issues that always seem to be popping up in the news are food safety and the loss of farm land. These events address those issues. The Tasting Fair features organic meats and information on how to know that the meat you buy is safe to eat and gentle on the animals and the environment (it will also be a lot of fun with live music, kids’ activities, a hot dog stand, and more). The same evening, they're screening the acclaimed documentary "King Corn" as a benefit for the Good Humus Farm Preservation Project; Good Humus is a small organic family farm in Capay Valley that is raising money for an easement to make the land an organic farm in perpetuity--protecting it from development.

From 10W-30 to Extra Virgin

Wed, 11 Jun 2008 13:48:12 -0800

In case you missed it, there was a really interesting article in the Bee the other day about the number of restaurants in Sacramento that used to be auto shops or car showrooms. They range from Zocalo to Suzie Burger (pictured above). What with the price of gas these days, we might just see more car businesses closing. Let's hope they have the forethought to put in bike racks with valet parking!

Virtual Hug for a Fellow Blogger

Tue, 03 Jun 2008 16:04:56 -0800

We bloggers sit about in front of our computers sending our thoughts and photos into the world and every once in a while we crawl out of our monitor-lit caves and get together! This, however, is a digital get-together for a blogger from Santa Rosa. A virtual hug, if you will. I'm donating a copy of my cookbook Hands-Off Cooking: Low-Supervision, High-Flavor Meals for Busy People, which I'll sign and ship anywhere. Shankari is donating a free, private cooking class for two at Whole Foods in Sacramento! So read on and learn about this event and enter the raffle.

This is an appeal on behalf of a group of food bloggers who are friends of Briana Brownlow @ Figs With Bri.

Bri was diagnosed with breast cancer two and half years ago. A mastectomy, chemotherapy and two years of relatively good health later, the cancer is back. It has metastasized to other parts of her body. At the age of 15, Bri lost her 41-year old mother to the disease. Now, she’s waging her own war against breast cancer. More about it here.

She is going through intensive chemo and other treatments and needs to focus single-mindedly on healing and finding what treatment works best for her. Her health insurance, unfortunately, does not cover holistic alternatives which she would like to try. Bri and her husband Marc have enough on their plates right now in addition to worrying about her medical bills.

The team organising the JUNE edition of CLICK at Jugalbandi has organised a fundraiser to help Bri and her family meet her out-of-pocket medical costs for ONE YEAR.

CLICK is a monthly theme-based photography contest hosted by Jugalbandi. This month’s theme is: YELLOW for Bri

Yellow is the colour of hope. Through the work of the LiveStrong Foundation, it has also come to signify the fight against cancer.

The entries can be viewed HERE. The deadline for entries is June 30, 2008. The fundraiser will extend until July 15, 2008.

The target amount is 12,000 U.S. dollars. We appeal to our fellow bloggers and readers to help us achieve this. Bri deserves a chance to explore all options, even if her insurance company thinks otherwise.

There’s a raffle with exciting prizes on offer. After viewing the list, you may make your donation HERE or at the Chip-In button on any participating site.

Your donation can be made securely through credit card or Pay Pal and goes directly to Bri’s account.

This month’s photo contest also has some prizes. Details HERE.

You can support this campaign by donating to the fundraiser, by participating in CLICK: the photo event, and by publicising this campaign.

Green Tacos and Beer

Tue, 03 Jun 2008 11:34:11 -0800

Forget green eggs and ham--the Riverside Clubhouse is doing green tacos and beer with Go Green Bike Night on Wednesdays. Starting at 5 p.m., ride your bike and valet park it with SABA (the Sacramento Area Bicycle Advocates; $1 tip is appreciated) and get a taco and beer for free when you buy a taco and beer. The tacos are delicious shredded pork in soft corn tortillas and the beers are cold Pacificos. A table of four of us last week consumed 18 tacos and 8 beers, all for only $30. They'll probably run this special through the summer. You can't beat it for taste and value. Riverside Clubhouse 2633 Riverside Blvd. 448-9988

Looking for a Farmer's Market?

Thu, 29 May 2008 09:56:02 -0800

Got a sudden jones for Bing cherries or local peaches? The Sacramento Bee Web site has a great new interactive guide to area farmer's markets. It lists markets by day of the week, with maps, hours, and months of the year that they're open (for instance, the Cesar Chavez market just opened earlier this month for the season). You can also find an excellent list of what's in season, with example prices from a local market. Each week in the paper and online, they'll list a sample market with parking info., details on types of vendors, and other useful information. Another link gives you a list of produce that's waning, so you can get it now before it's done for the year. And there are even links to recipes so you know what to do when you get home with more produce than you can possibly eat before the next market beckons you. Check it out: Sacbee Farmer's Markets Guide

Oni's Chicken & Waffles

Thu, 22 May 2008 11:34:47 -0800

You might think chicken and waffles sounds like an odd combo, but it's no weirder than pancakes and bacon. The essence of both duets is the interplay of salty and sweet. Oni's Chicken & Waffles on Stockton Boulevard has the pairing down pat, with jazz on the sound system and a friendly atmosphere to boot. Some friends and I went a couple of weeks ago, but I haven't stopped thinking about their macaroni and cheese since. That's what brought me to Oni's in the first place. A couple of months ago at a birthday party, I tasted some of the best mac and cheese I've had outside of my mother's kitchen. It wasn't fancified with blue cheese, brie, or black truffles--it just had great savory flavor, good texture to the noodles, and plenty of real cheese. I had to have more, so I planned a trip to Oni's to get it and try their chicken and waffles while I was at it. I first discovered the concept of chicken and waffles in Oakland, I think, but I've since read about it in John T. Edge's great book Fried Chicken: An American Story. In it he says (and Oni's Web site quotes), "My guess is that it comes from the days when someone would go out in the morning and wring a chicken's neck and fry it for breakfast. Preparing breakfast bread with whatever meat you have on the hoof, so to speak, comes out of the rural tradition." The Wells Supper Club in Harlem lays claim to the commercial birthplace of the combo, where late-night jazz patrons in the 1930s often wanted both dinner and breakfast foods at the same time. More famous now is Roscoe's House of Chicken and Waffles in L.A. But whatever the origins, it's a food pairing that you often see in more Southern or African-American neighborhoods. Stockton Boulevard being the United Nations of Sacramento, it's not surprising to find Oni's there and doing a brisk business.

Beer Beer Beer and More Beer

Thu, 15 May 2008 16:58:14 -0800

Just in time for the early heat comes the 9th annual West Coast Brew Fest! This Sat., May 17, 1 to 5 p.m., Miller Park, Sacramento There will be 60 microbreweries represented, including local Beermanns Beerwerks, Hoppy Brewing Company, Lodi Beer Company, and River City Brewing Company. You'll also get to try Alaskan Brewing Company and Woodchuck Cider (from Vermont), for more far-flung tastes. The commercial craft competition was held already, and some of the winners included River City for Light Lager and Sacramento Brewing for Hefeweizen. There's apparently a new 5-ounce plastic pilsner tasting glass this year and the promise of "No more running out of beer so there's more for everyone!" I heard last year was a bit dry. I hope they're well stocked this year since it's supposed to be SO HOT. Also look for local bands and food vendors, including G-Dubb's BBQ and Dave's Dogs. Tickets $27 online and $30 day of; limited to 3000 attendees only. $5 for designated drivers and those 16 to 20 years old (poor kids). Get them online here or at local beer halls like Hoppy, Brew it Up!, and Sac Brewing.

Mexican Culinary Authority Diana Kennedy Coming to Sac!

Thu, 15 May 2008 11:33:45 -0800

We are extremely lucky to have the opportunity to see Dame Diana Kennedy not once, but twice, in Sacramento next month! She is widely regarded as an authority on classical Mexican cooking and was awarded the Order of the Aztec Eagle by the Congress of the Republic of Mexico for her contributions to the documentation of regional Mexican cuisine. She is touring in support of her newest cookbook, The Art of Mexican Cooking, and will be giving two cooking demonstrations in our area. The first will be Thursday, June 12, in a private class to be limited to 12 people. A paid reservation of $250 will include a hands-on cooking class, dinner, and a signed copy of the new book. The event will be held at an architecturally significant "green" house overlooking the Catta Verdura golf course to honor Ms. Kennedy's long interest in ecological building practices. She lives primarily in her ecological adobe house in Michoacan, Mexico, which also serves as a research center for Mexican cuisine. For reservations or questions contact Peg Tomlinson at pegtomlinson@gmail.com or (916) 645-4694. Known as one of the Dining Divas, Peg is a Mexican cooking authority as well and has attended Ms. Kennedy's cooking camps in Oaxaca. The second event will be Saturday, June 14, from 1 to 4 p.m. at East Bay Culinary Center. The demonstration will be followed by a book signing. Contact Carolyn Kumpe at (916) 440-0623 or via email at carolynk@ebrs.net to make a reservation today. The cost of the class is $95 per person. Seats are limited. You can learn more about Diana Kennedy by reading Elise Bauer's account of her experience when Ms. Kennedy was here last.

Slow Down on the Delta

Sat, 03 May 2008 13:23:55 -0800

Tickets are now available for the four-county “Slow Down on the Delta” dinner and field trips on Saturday, May 31, hosted by the Slow Food Convivia of Placer, Sacramento, Solano and Yolo Counties. This will be a great opportunity to meet chefs and farmers and enjoy the ambience of the Delta with friends under old valley oaks on the edge of the Sacramento River. Food-themed silent and live auctions will raise funds for Slow Food Nation. The speaker for the event will be Anya Fernald, CEO of Slow Food Nation and longtime program director for California Alliance of Family Farms (CAFF). Her husband, Renato Sardo, head of Slow Food International, will also be attending. There will be four-star chefs representing each county: Patrick Mulvaney (Sacramento), Daniel Bell (Solano), Pru Mendez (Davis), and Molly Hawks and Michael Fagnoni (Placer). The chefs are sourcing foods grown in the four counties, such as spring lamb, endive extravaganza, cheeses, and nuts for the menu. There will be nine field trips (arranged in two different suggested “flights”) for those who want to make a Slow Day or Afternoon in the Delta. Each is led by an expert knowledgeable of the special challenges and rewards of farming in the Delta. They include offerings such as "Explore the Delta on the Tule Queen II"; "Nursery, Organic Farm, and Garden Tour"; and a tour with Carvalho Family Wines owner John Carvalho. Saturday, May 31, 5:00 p.m. at Vino Farms, 51375 S. Netherlands Road, Clarksburg, CA Visit brown paper tickets to get your tickets now. More event details are at the Slow Food Sacramento site.

New Edible Issue Whets the Appetite

Thu, 01 May 2008 11:29:14 -0800

The latest issue of Edible Sacramento has just hit the streets. I wrote back in March about Raphael Garden Biodynamic farm at the Rudolf Steiner College in Fair Oaks. I go into more depth about what exactly constitutes Biodynamic farming in this issue of Edible. Did you know that a lot of California and French wines are grown biodynamically? You'd be surprised. Bonny Doon has recently decided to put most of its resources toward Biodynamic practices. Read the article to find out what's got vintners and other local farmers so interested. You'll also find "Sausage: A Love Supreme" by Hank Shaw. He writes about Morant's Old Fashioned Sausage Kitchen and other nearby link locations. And visit his blog to learn about making Greek loukaniko sausage. Garrett McCord of Vanilla Garlic writes in the spring issue about Ginger Elizabeth chocolates, which you may have realized by now are a bit of an addiction for me. (see previous posts) You'll also learn about what it takes to be a farmer these days from real-life farmer and author Mike Madison; what to cook with your farmer's market bounty; and the "Momnivore's Dilemma"--school lunches. Pick up your copy today (it's FREE) at Taylor's Market, the Coop, Corti Brothers, and a bunch of other yummy locations.

Eat, Drink, and Be International

Wed, 23 Apr 2008 12:27:49 -0800

A melting pot of upcoming food-centric events to put on your calendar: Dining Out for Life, TONIGHT, April 24 This is a national fundraiser for CARES--Center for AIDS Research, Education, & Services. Each of the participating restaurants will donate a portion of their night's proceeds to CARES, so get out there and eat for a cause. To see the list of restaurants to choose from, including Mulvaney's, Dragonfly, and 58 Degrees, visit the CARES site. Lunch Lessons: Changing the Way We Feed Our Children, April 26, 1 to 2 p.m., $5, Whole Foods Sacramento With guest chef and author Ann Cooper (The Renegade Lunch Lady) This is a lecture and discussion class; open to all ages (and especially parents!). Chef Ann will discuss and educate you on the state of America’s school lunch programs, how to improve children’s meals, and share strategies for parents to become engaged with issues around school food. Learn about the Healthy Kids Meal Wheel, Lap-Top Lunches, and healthy, kid-friendly recipes that can be made at home to ensure your child has wholesome, nutritious, delicious food at school! Chef Ann’s book latest book, Lunch Lessons, will be available for viewing and purchase. She will make delicious smoothies for participants to enjoy during the discussion. The Stockton Asparagus Festival, April 25 to 27, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., $5 to $10, Downtown Stockton It's time again for asparitas (that would be asparagus margaritas, of course)! The 23rd annual festival celebrates all things asparagus, and this year all things in eighties music as well. Choose from live shows by the Greg Kihn Band, Joan Jett and the Blackhearts, or War. Chef Martin Yan will appear each day for a celebrity cooking demo and the World Deep-Fried Asparagus-Eating Competition will be held on Saturday. This is an actual competitive event, with appearances by nationally ranked eating champions like Sonya "The Black Widow" Thomas. Get the details on schedule, maps, and Asparagus Alley offerings here. Scottish Games and Festival, April 26 and 27, 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., Yolo County Fairgrounds This year is the 132nd anniversary of this event! It's not specifically a food event, but with a whisky seminar and tasting event and haggis hurling contest, it seems like a fun time. Put your kilt on (even if it's a utilikilt) and dance to the bagpipes. More info here on schedule and location. Feria 2008: A Night in Spain, April 26, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., $50, St. Francis Church This benefit for St. Francis elementary school will feature tapas from local restaurants, a paella demonstration, a Spanish wine tasting and no-host bar, flamenco dancing, and desserts by the International Culinary Academy. Get the details at the Feria site. The Sushi Masters State Finals, June 10, 5:30 to 8:30 p.m., Sacramento Convention Center (Not for 6 weeks, but buy your tickets now) A celebration of culture and cuisine with artistry and fast-paced competition, this competition features six chefs who have won regional competitions in Sacramento, SF, and LA. This has been organized annually by the California Rice Commission since 2005. The $65 admission price includes event and competition entry, sushi sampling, sake tasting, and cultural entertainment. Ticket and event information can be found at the Sushi Masters Web site. A portion of ticket sales will benefit the Wakamatsu Tea and Silk Colony Project, which seeks to acquire historic property considered California¹s first Japanese colony, and transition it to a state historical park and interpretive facility that pays tribute to these first colonists and the contributions that Japanese Americans have made to the state.

Macau Cafe: Portunese Food!

Thu, 17 Apr 2008 14:33:55 -0800

One of the things I like best about trying a variety of restaurants is learning about the culinary history of different countries. The cuisine of any country is made up of local foodstuffs mixed with the imported tastes of settlers. That's how we ended up with things like deep-dish pizza and chop suey as distinctly American foods. And the Central Valley is one of the most culturally diverse areas of the U.S. (see my article from Edible Sacramento magazine two years ago). So Sacramento is a great place to learn about other cultures through their food. Someone at the Portuguese Historical Society had told me awhile ago about Macau Cafe in South Land Park as an example of Portuguese food. (I was hoping for baked goods, but I'll take what I can get.) Macau is a peninsula just off mainland China that was settled by Portuguese traders in the 16th century and just received semi-autonomy in 1999. So it was one of the longest held colonies in the extensive Portuguese empire. Other Portuguese colonies like Brazil and Sao Tome have similarly interesting culinary and cultural mash-ups. Anyway, I finally made it to Macau Cafe recently and am now kicking myself for not going sooner. Part of the restaurant group Culinary Wonderland, Inc., that also runs New Canton and New Lai Wah here, Macau Cafe is in the same semi-dumpy shopping center as Prime Supermarket. So I wasn't quite sure what to expect. Luckily, though, it was better than I had hoped. We went on a Tuesday night and the place was packed the whole time we ate, with our table being the only Caucasian people there. I may be wrong about this, and I don't want to make assumptions, but I always think it bodes well when there are lots of people present of the same ethnicity as the restaurant. Makes you think it might be authentic, or at least pretty decent. The booklike menus have over 230 dishes you can order and the walls were plastered with photos of additional dishes, with titles in English and Chinese. Some were only in Chinese, which made me even more curious about what they were. So we could only taste a fraction of the offerings, but decided to try a combination of Chinese and Portuguese dishes.

Tuli Bistro: A Confusing Time Was Had By All

Thu, 03 Apr 2008 10:21:09 -0800

I've been hearing a lot about Tuli Bistro over the last few months, since it opened in December 07. Overall, the reviews have been glowing, so when I had the chance to go for lunch recently, I was definitely looking forward to it. But I have to say, it was one of the more confusing experiences I've had in a Sacramento restaurant. The chef, locally raised Adam Pechal, graduated from the esteemed Culinary Institute of America and has worked for many well-respected chefs since. He did a stint at Red Sage (interestingly, one of the places I worked as well, but earlier) in DC, Thomas Keller's Bouchon in Napa Valley, and at the Seattle restaurant Fandango, owned by a James Beard award-winning chef. And Chef Pechal's food was hands down the best aspect of our lunch. He has a wood-fired pizza oven, an open galley kitchen, and a casually attractive collection of jars of ingredients and well-thumbed cookbooks out on view to set the stage. The bistro, on the corner of 21st and S oddly has no sign--not even a chalkboard set up on the sidewalk, which seems either intentionally exclusive or oddly disinterested in bringing in customers. But the decor on the inside is lovely. Tiny, colorful glass tiles form the backsplash of the bar seating area and distinctive ceiling fixtures cast flattering light on the premises. The seats inside are few, but there is a larger sidewalk dining area covered by an awning, with heat lamps for chilly spring afternoons and evenings. We stopped in on a Monday at the end of lunch (although a phone call beforehand confirmed that they actually stay open straight through from lunch until dinner). No less than four people asked us how many were in our party, even though the first asker had already begun clearing a table for us. So the service staff seemed quite attentive, if not a bit unsure who was in charge of greeting guests. After that, though, the service went disastrously downhill, even while we enjoyed some of the tastiest food next to a table that included the Bistro's manager!