Limone, Limón, Citrón? Not sure how I got hooked on them but remember my dad telling me I couldn’t eat more than one a day when I was a kid because the acid would eat the enamel off my teeth. My dad loved gardening, hunting, fishing and growing things, thus we always had a big garden and fruit trees, including a Meyer Lemon in our backyard. Oh how I enjoyed hanging with him and putzing around the garden. I was responsible for watering when he went on trips (he was a pilot). I consider myself lucky to have had a dad who treasured growing his own produce.

Last year I tried marmalade, which didn’t quite set but was a great addition to vinaigrette and dessert sauce. This year I made cake. A Meyer Lemon Cake with Chardonnay Sauce to be exact.

A recipe caught my eye in a Bonny Doon Vineyard’s newsletter a while back. Most intriguing was the use of olive oil. While I’ve heard of olive oil type cakes, I’d never made one and wanted to know how olive oil would actually taste in a cake.

It wasn’t too sweet and fairly light on it’s own, with subtle flavors of olive oil, but the aroma made me think savory. Conveniently the top had sunk a tad, so I added a thin layer of freshly made quince paste, a.k.a. Membrillo, I’d made the day before. The wine sauce brought it all together. At first I poured a little on top and watched it soak into the cake’s sides. Hum… more to soak, more taste. I settled on a slice in a puddle.

Since I’d polished the Viognier months before and a minimally oaked Chardonnay was open, chardonnay it was.

I always make candied lemon peels (I’ve graduated from eating raw lemons to candied peels which satiate the sweet tooth I inherited from my dad), and have used Meyers but peels from the more common Eureka or Lisbon are thicker, thus may be better to use. I added some to garnish the cake.

Before the Sugar

After the Sugar

Here’s the recipe with changes from that newsletter.

Continue reading "Using the Harvest: Meyer Lemons" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 11:55 AM | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBacks (0)

Established in 1877 and located in the town of Haro, Bodegas Lopez de Heredia is the third oldest bodega (winery) in Rioja, run by the family’s fourth generation, and make wine in a ‘tradional’ method. The visit was fascinating and oh so different from the typical California winery tour (not that I don’t like California wine). For fellow wine buffs, I know you’ll enjoy the following. For those who aren’t (yet), I hope it piques a new or further curiosity of wine!

So what is traditional?

After harvest, crushing and de-stemming, the juice is put in large wood vats (over 100 years old and each holding around 20,000 liters / just over 5,000 gallons) where fermentation takes place. Natural yeast strains characteristic of Rioja built up on the vat’s insides over the years, thus no need to add yeast to start fermentation. Check this out:

Once fermentation is completed, the wine is transferred to different old wood vats where malolactic fermentation (ML) takes place. This usually doesn’t happen until the spring when the temperatures get warmer (warm temps are required for ML to take place). Like the old vats for primary fermentation, these second set of vats have a build up of the desired malolactic bacteria, thus the use of cultured bacteria isn’t required.

Long term aging in old oak barrels occurs next.

As we walked through the musty smelling caves, it was explained the mold on the walls (and we’re talking massive mold) helps control undesirable bacteria that could contribute to spoilage of the wine. We popped a bottle of reserva that night and noted the cork’s end and wine’s aroma slightly smelled of that must!

The aging barrels are used for up to 20 years. An interesting point is Heredia has their own on-site cooperage. Because they keep and use barrels so long, they found it necessary to have the capability to repair them in-house. With this comes the ability to build barrels as well.

They use American oak, which is stacked in pallets to age a few years prior to use. When barrels are at the end of their life, they’re broken down and the staves are used as firewood to toast new barrels.

Continue reading "Traditional Wine in La Rioja" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 12:03 AM | Permalink | Comments (6) | TrackBacks (0)

My husband and I arrived at the rented Barcelona flat at 5:00 p.m. on a Wednesday. A quick shower unveiled the second wind’s face and off we went, into the streets crawling with people. Our quest? Locate a tapas bar from which we would kick off our one month food, wine and hiking adventure in northern Spain.

After much exploring, hunger pangs took over in front of Taller de Tapas, adjacent to the Placeta del Pi in the Barri Gotic (gothic quarter). We started with what I craved; Boquerones en Vinagre (silver backed anchovies cured in vinegar then drizzled with olive oil) and an order of tomato bread (slices of bread vigorously rubbed with garlic and a halved tomato then finished with a drizzle of olive oil). With a half bottle of rosado (dry rose), this was the perfect starter.

The waiter suggested we also try Boquerones Rebozados. For this, anchovies are butterflied, very lightly coated in batter, then fried. Wow!

Next, Espinacas con Pancetta Iberica y Garbanzos (sautéed spinach, Iberian pancetta and chickpeas) and Ensalada de Rúcula, Membrillo y Queso de Cabra de la Nuri (Arugula with Nuri’s goat cheese, quince paste and toasted almonds). Spanish cheese and Membrillo together are truly an extraordinary match….and another half bottle of rosado was required.

Then the Sardinas a la Plancha con Perejil (grilled sardines with parsley) arrived. Previously, we’d only had them from a can, so we were surprised that these were much bigger.

So the hubby asks how to eat them. Not being familiar, combined with the rosado and lack of sleep (we’d been up about 36 hours), I simply said “just cut them up and eat them,” so we did just that. SURPRISE! Crunch crunch, bones and all with the first one. What a mess. Looking sheepishly at an adjacent table we discovered ya gotta cut them in half and pull the main spine bone out of this larger fresh type. Duh. A perfect tourista moment, and an indication it was time for bed….and no need for the calcium supplement tonight!

(The pics are not the greatest as I forgot my camera and used my cell phone!)

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 9:57 AM | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBacks (0)

I was never interested in hard alcohol and don’t have a taste for it. My brother worked at a wine shop growing up and introduced my to the world of wine. That was it, no need for the hard stuff. But for the Sidecar, I make room.

Several years ago, our friends Jennifer and Bradley had us over. Bradley was making drinks and asked if I'd like a Sidecar. Sure! I didn't really pay attention to the name but remembered it was good.

Fast forward to one July in Vancouver, BC at The Raincity Grill on the West End. My husband drinks gin martinis and I wanted to join him before we partook in BC’s own Okanagan Valley wine. The bartender suggested a Sidecar. It went like this:

2 ounces Cognac
1 ounce Cointreau
¾ ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ ounce simple syrup
A sugared rim
Shaken with ice
Stained into a martini glass

Refreshing, uplifting, tasty. So tasty, I took note.

I usually make this cocktail at home as not many bartenders know about Sidecars. When I ask whether a bartender knows how to make one, the response I get 99% of the time is “Isn’t that made with….ah…”, or “No but I can look it up and make you one.” There are several variations of this wonderful cocktail but there are two keys to a great Sidecar and I’ve never found a cocktail book that knows!

1) addition of the simple syrup, and
2) it should really have a sugared rim to offset it’s slightly sour tanginess. (I like to run a freshly cut piece of lemon around the rim, then dip the glass in superfine sugar.)

I’ve tried them with out either and the drink is just not the same. You can use an Armagnac or Brandy, and you can use Triple sec, that’s OK. But the two keys, ya gotta have em!

So if this sounds appealing, try one. If you’re already a Sidecar fan, we’d love to hear about your preferred version!

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 4:17 PM | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBacks (0)

They've been around the block, (not Pamela but maybe Suzette) birthing in Brittany (France). There are numerous variations including sope (Mexico), injera (African), crespella (Italy), pannekoeken (Denmark), pfannkuchen (Germany), dosa (India), palacsinta (Hungary), filloas (Galacia, Spain) to name a few. I've had them here and there in the US, the most memorable at Lutz Cafe in Chicago.

I didn't know the savory style is traditionally made with buckwheat flour and sweet with whole wheat. Suzette prefers sweet but Pamela, neither! She stepped out on her own and made them with a mishmosh of flours so she could go either way. And let me tell you, they are great!

All kidding aside, Pamela's Gluten Free Baking and Pancake Mix makes ambrosial crepes.

Continue reading "Pamela Or Suzette?" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 11:06 AM | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBacks (0)

What: Mai Pham, chef of Lemon Grass restaurant and local cookbook author, has just released three Lemon Grass Kitchen sauces in a jar. There are two Thai versions: Green Curry and Yellow Curry, and a Vietnamese version: Lemongrass Ginger. They're all 8-ounce jars that make 6 servings using the recipe on each label.

Why: I tried the Lemongrass Ginger version and made the stir-fry recipe provided. It was very easy and resulted in a colorful dish with great flavor. One of the things I liked the most was the distinct flavor of fish sauce, making it taste authentically Vietnamese. Even when I make Vietnamese and Thai recipes at home, I never seem to be brave enough to add enough fish sauce to make them taste really authentic. (I should just double the amounts of spices listed, like I do with Indian recipes in most cookbooks. That often works out well.) It seems like there aren't many (if any) Vietnamese sauces in mainstream groceries, and few Thai varieties, so this should be a good local contribution to expanding people's culinary horizons.

Where: I got mine at Whole Foods Market (thanks Lynn!), but you can find them in other specialty stores and grocery sections. You can also catch Chef Pham on some upcoming radio/TV/live demos:

Monday, May 4 — Live cooking segment on Sacramento & Co, KXTV, 8 am hour
Tuesday, May 5 — Live radio interview with Kitty O’Neal on KFBK 1530, 3 pm hour
Tuesday, May 5 — Lecture/book signing/sauce tasting, Borders on Fair Oaks, 7 pm
Friday, May 8 — Cooking demo/book signing Whole Foods Culinary Center, Napa
Saturday, May 9 — Presentation/book signing at the Culinary Institute of America, Napa

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 1:57 PM | Permalink | Comments (7) | TrackBacks (0)

Last week, I had the pleasure of hosting Scott Rose from the Cosmo Cafe as the Chef of the Month at Whole Foods’ Culinary Center. And a great evening it was with excellent food, top-notch instruction and impeccable plating. (Chef Scott pictured here with volunteer Jocelyn.)

Upon meeting Scott, I felt a quiet confidence exuding this down-to-earth, approachable and easygoing guy. He made me feel comfortable and welcomed questions about his food and cooking style, which he describes as simple, seasonal, soulful from an Italian/Mediterranean background.

Before delving into the dishes, we also welcomed Jon Affonso of Sacramento’s own, Rail Bridge Cellars. He poured his Sauvignon Blanc for all to enjoy as Scott got down to business.

Dish one was...

Continue reading "Cosmopolitan Cuisine" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 9:58 PM | Permalink | Comments (5) | TrackBacks (0)

Happy new year! Did you go whole hog over the holidays?

I've been meaning to post for a while about buying 1/8th of a pig last fall. Last November, we divvied up half a pig from Bledsoe Farms in Yolo County with three other families and ended up with about 27 pounds of pork! My husband and I love pork--especially the flavor-packed, antibiotic-free pork from Mr. Bledsoe. I profiled Bledsoe Pork in Edible Sacramento a couple of years ago, and we've been buying their meat ever since at the Davis and Sacramento farmer's markets (he doesn't sell through stores). So when a friend mentioned an interest in buying in bulk to save money, we jumped at the chance.

John Bledsoe and his son Dan raise their Duroc pigs along with lambs and beef cattle now. Soon, they'll also add turkeys to the mix (Mr. Bledsoe expects them to be ready by next Thanksgiving). Their meat is always full of flavor and drug-free, so it's doubly worth looking them up at the market. And in case you're not sure how to cook something, they freely give out kitchen advice as well!

Continue reading "Going Whole (or 1/8) Hog" »

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 3:16 PM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

Persimmons... I truly love them (see Amagaki post earlier in November). The stacks are dwindling at stores. I noticed Amagakis are no more at Whole Foods Market in Sacramento. So I picked up the workhorse, a Fuyu, and decided to incorporate it into a recipe I'd been wanting to try.

Let's go to Morocco, where you hear about dishes such as Tagine, B’stilla (Bisteeya), Harira, Kefta and where couscous is a staple. But I’d not heard of T’faya, which is the dish I made.

Continue reading "Using the Harvest: Cod Couscous and Onion T'faya with Persimmons" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 8:50 PM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

Walk in the door and an unusual but inviting aroma greets you. An urban, city feel with clean lines, you take a deep breath, look around and notice the shop is comfortable and down-to-earth with colorful leaves wondering the ceiling. Black, Green, White, Oolong, Herbal, Rooibos, Fruit and Estate; get lost in a world of tea.

Hina is a bubbly, fun loving person who immediately makes you feel at home. Her staff adopts a small town, easy-going mentality getting to know many customers by name.

Continue reading "Tea in the City" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 3:36 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

Looking for a local gift idea? You can support a great high school program and get a delicious salsa at the same time! The Grant High GEO Environmental Science and Design Academy (in Del Paso Heights) teaches students all about organic gardening, health and nutrition, landscape design, and environmental science. In their senior year, GEO students can take part in the E.A.T. salsa business. They contract with a local organic grower for tomatoes, follow the produce through processing and bottling, and then take turns selling the salsa at farmer's markets and at the school. You can find them on the first and third Saturdays at the Davis market and the Del Paso Heights farmer's market. The salsa is also sold through the Sacramento Co-op.

Now you can also buy gift baskets for the holidays. For $18 ($15 for Grant students), you get a lovely basket with a jar of either the Traditional Tomato or Spicy Peach Salsa and a bag of tortilla chips. For $24, you get one of each salsa and the chips. For $30 (the best deal), you get the two salsas, a bag of chips, and two beautiful wooden bowls--one large and one small.

Visit the GEO Web site for the order form and contact information, or look for them at this Saturday's Davis farmer's market. I've had both salsas and they're delicious--as well as local and organic. Support this great cause!

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 11:00 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Native to China, with the botanical name “diaspyros”, persimmons are loading local trees this time of year. You might ask how they could be the “Fruit of the Gods” (Greek translation for diaspyros). However, if you’re one who has experienced a luscious, very ripe Hachiya persimmon blissfully gliding over your palate, you know how. Or you could be a fan of Fuya persimmons, the less sweet and crispier variety. But please, let me introduce you to another persimmon that I find superior!

The Amagaki is truly amazing. Not quite as succulent and velvety as the Hachiya, its flesh is crisper (similar to the Fuya but juicier) with a sweet and cinnamony flavor that finishes teasing of nutmeg.

Continue reading "Have You Tried An Amagaki Lately?" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 8:46 PM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

Sardines… They were never anywhere near the top, let alone middle of my list of food items to enjoy. Just the word sardine would ring negatively in my ears. I had them in the pickled herring category, which is on the verge of un-edible. Slimy, oily, fishy and not happening!

A friend recently shared she had sardines on a salad for lunch. My curiosity was peaked and I wanted details. This person is trying to eat healthier, thus they’ve got to have something going for them, and I was unaware of just what that something was. Then I was enlightened.

BELA-Olhão Sardines from Portugal are her brand of choice in the ‘skinless boneless packed in olive oil” category. These large, meaty and lightly smoked little gems (yes, I now think of them as such) are uber tender and tasty. Oily…well they are packed in healthy oil, but not slimy or fishy.

The details:

- Natural source of Co-Enzyme Q-10 and Omega-3
- Good source of calcium and vitamin D
- Tested very low in mercury
- 100% dolphin safe
- Wild caught, sustainably fished off a non-industrial coast
- Packed fresh within 8 hours of catch

I haven’t tried the other varieties made by BELA-Olhão but you can check them out on their website.

There are several canned sardine producers out there. Whole Foods carries BELA-Olhão. Local markets Taylor’s, Corti Bros and Nugget carry other brands I’ll have to try.

Sardine fritters are a great party appetizer (or for anytime). I shallow pan-fried mine versus deep frying and they turned out tasty. I’ve included the recipe below for you to check them out.

What will I do next? Mix them in scrambled eggs, add them to pasta dishes, put them on crostini and top with parmesan cheese, mix them into a bean salad… The possibilities are endless. They are now in the mainstream of my pantry!

Continue reading "Sardines Go Mainstream" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 5:30 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

Carmen, whom I work with, is from Granada, Spain. We were recently talking about tapas and she asked whether I’d been to Ficelle. …Ficelle??? (For those wondering what tapas are, here is a fun little write up.)

This cute little café is tucked off a side street in Winters. The food du jour on Friday nights is tapas and Carmen gave it two thumbs up for the tapas, the wine by the glass selection, and her favorite, sangria.

We headed to Winters last Friday to see what Ficelle was all about. Arriving at 7:15, the place was humming. Ficelle is an ‘order at the counter then find a seat’ cafe. This came about because the owners (fun loving sisters) Joanne Martin and Marianne Washabaugh wanted a food-to-go establishment where they prepared dishes ahead of time. But what happened was they woke up one morning and realized they’d opened a restaurant (opened on St. Patrick’s day 2005).

Continue reading "A Little Gem in Winters" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 10:30 AM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

The Sunday Sacramento farmer’s market is a fabulous one. Now that the pin and all stitches are out of my foot, and I’ve got the OK to move about, I’ll be frequenting it once again. (See October 10 posting re: “2 Cooks…” for history on this topic.) Last Saturday, however, we headed to the Davis farmer’s market. While I did recognize many vendors from Sacramento, it was fun checking out those new to me.

One new table had Endive. It’s in season all the time due to the growing method. I visited a booth on endive at the recent Slow Food Nation in San Francisco and met Richard Collins, a Sacramento native (California Vegetable Specialties). Interesting stuff. Do you like it? Do you know about it? Here’s the scoop…

Endive is the second growth of the bud at the top of a chicory root. They start in the field where chicory family members are grown (curly endive, escarole, frisee, radicchio), then are moved in doors and grow in complete darkness. Field growth takes about 150 days. The second growth inside takes 20 to 28 days. This practice is labor intensive, thus endive is a tad more expensive but worth it!

And now for the fun part… what to do with endive. Like some vegetables, it is not necessarily a straightforward item to use. I’ve seen people look at it and say, “What is this?” or “What do I do with this?” Been there, done that! Bottom line is you just eat it! Eat it raw as an item to snack on like a carrot, celery or jicama stick. Use it to showcase cheese by pulling off a leaf and putting cheese in the leaf ‘bowl’. This is a great party appetizer. Braise it with a little olive oil and garlic as you would bok choy or cabbage. Cut it up and put it in salads. And one of my favorite things to do with it is wrap it in bacon and roast it. I learned this method while doing my practicum at The Waterboy in Sacramento. This easy but incredibly lip-licking recipe is below for your cooking enjoyment!

This leads me to my impromptu Sunday dinner. I do this thing where I pull things out of the fridge and start cooking. The list last Sunday included endive, turkey bacon, asiago cheese, romaine lettuce, a small cod fillet, a small saba fish, garlic, olive/canola oil blend, carrot juice, sake, home made Caesar dressing, kosher salt and a pepper grinder. I made Italian grissini breadsticks earlier so those were contenders. The result?

Asiago Caesar salad topped with saba and cod that was pan seared, deglazed with sake then a carrot juice finishing braise. This was surrounded by bacon wrapped -roasted endive.

The husband hadn’t experienced endive this way and gave the whole thing two thumbs up. He though the saba was cod (teeheehe! My little secret otherwise he probably wouldn’t have eaten it.)

Continue reading "Impromptu Sunday Dinner" »

Posted by Lynn Gowdy at 7:37 AM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

What: Freezlets are natural frozen fruitsicles made by Lorena Leibman in Roseville. I first discovered them at the State Fair, and then again at the Jazz Jubilee. They're also known as paletas in Spanish. Freezlets are made with no artificial colors, concentrates, or corn syrup and they come in some great, unusual flavors.

Why: For Father's Day this year, I bought my husband a box of 25 chile-flavored freezlets. Lorena gave us a mix of three flavors: strawberry-serrano, mango-pineapple-habanero, and pineapple-serrano. They're cold and hot at the same time--perfect for this crazily hot and smoky weather.

You can get your own box of these luscious licks for only $30. Choose from flavors like strawberry, lime, and coconut, or more unusual varieties like butterscotch, peanut butter, and cheesecake (or those chile-flecked flavors!). They also have tiny baby-friendly non-sugar freezets and a white chocolate-covered raspberry variation that I need to try soon. Imagine the joy of having a stock of great 'sicles for your next party or just to cool you off every day!

Where: Visit the freezlets Web site for more info. and a list of their flavors or contact lorena at orders@freezlets.com or 916-784-0101.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 11:24 AM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

Last Thursday, I got the opportunity to assist cookbook author Diana Kennedy with a presentation for her re-released cookbook The Art of Mexican Cooking It was originally published in 1989, but this new version is slightly redesigned to give more prominence to the area of Mexico from which each recipe comes.

Diana demonstrated three recipes that we all got to taste: Tamales de Flor de Calabaza (Squash Flower Tamales), Nopales Salad (Cactus Paddles), and Barbacoa de Pollo (Barbecued Chicken) with Salsa Verde. This is hardly similar to the overcheesy version of "Mexican" food we often get in the States. It was all bursting with color and flavor--rather than just fat. I immediately made a shopping list to prepare the nopales and chicken again this past weekend.

Diana has lived in Mexico for 50 years and has written and studied the cuisine extensively. So she's given to some pronouncements, such as, "Use pork lard, please; none of this fancy oil stuff." She was also heard to mutter, "Such a lot of waste" when talking about how people often discard cilantro stems and other perfectly usable (or compostable) parts of food. And she was full of tips and preferences, like her caution to ONLY use hot water when filling a tamale steamer and never to remove the seeds and ribs from fresh chiles. (Unless, of course, you want to make them more mild.)

Her recipes are not for the starter cook. You do need some sense of cooking times and textures. But I had great success with my versions of two of her recipes. So I thought you might like to know where her assistants and I bought some of the Mexican ingredients and cooking equipment.

Continue reading "Cooking with Diana Kennedy" »

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 12:08 PM | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBacks (0)

As Northern Californians, we're pretty spoiled when it comes to wineries within 100 miles. I mean, that gets you to Napa and Sonoma--the wine meccas of the west coast. But since I moved to Sacramento, I've been a big fan of drinking more local wines, including those from Lodi and Clarksburg. Recently, though, I got to try an even more local wine, as in less than 2 miles from downtown. You can't get much more local than that, unless you're making your own.

The wines I sipped right next to their barrels, without even leaving the city, are from Rail Bridge Cellars. Sac native Jon Affonso is the owner and winemaker. He finally realized his dream of an urban winery last year when he opened Rail Bridge in an old car body shop (once again, a foodie use for an old auto shop) on N. 16th Street. His first two wines came about when he asked himself, "What does Sacramento want to drink?" Jon took his background in enology from Fresno State, experience making wines in France and California, and did some statistical analysis of the Sacramento market. Thus he chose to release his first two wines: a 2006 Sauvignon Blanc made with Dry Creek Valley fruit and a 2004 Lattice (a blend of 5 Bordeaux varietals) with Napa County fruit.

I'm no wine expert, but I drink my fair share and I know what I like. Dry whites are it for me--especially in the hot summers here--and the Rail Bridge Sauvignon is a terrific example. It's fermented in steel tanks and has citrus and green apple flavors. Since he first learned to make wine in France, Jon follows the French tendency toward wines that are great with food--not just for drinking on their own. He likes to pair the Sauvignon with Fish Tacos, Melon Ball Salad, Shrimp or Crab Louis Salad, and Chicken Enchiladas. The Lattice, on the other hand, is a hearty wine aged in French oak barrels (which are amazingly expensive and made by hand). It wasn't so robust that it would overwhelm food with its fruit, though, and Jon likes to serve it with Grilled Salmon, Roasted Chicken, and Grilled Rib Eye Steak with Fries.

I had a few questions for him after the tasting, and here's what he said:

Continue reading "You Can't Get More Local Than Rail Bridge" »

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 1:52 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

I love grocery stores. Not just for the food, but for the possibilities. Everywhere I go, I love to visit grocery stores, and have--from Sri Lanka to Kauai to Costa Rica. It's a bit food geeky of me, but there's no better way to gauge a community than by its markets. And there are so many interesting choices that it's always hard not to buy more than necessary (hence my overstocked pantry of condiments and sauces). It's especially fun if you can't read the language on the labels, as that makes you guess the contents. This is a bit tricky in Japanese groceries, though, as they like to put cute cartoon figures on food that have nothing to do with the ingredients. (Panda cookies? Hello Kitty soup?) And you have to be willing to take your taste chances. One unfortunate candy I tried was like roasted corn. Not a good flavor in a gummy candy.

So you'll find lots of market reviews on Sacatomato, and the latest is a good one. It's Prime Supermarket, just south of Land Park. I'd been there before, where it resides in a sort of rundown shopping center with a La Bou, a dry cleaners, and a Macau restaurant that bears trying (Portuguese crossed with Chinese!). But recently some friends reported that the store had become primarily Indian, so I had to go see.

It's still got the same sign that it used to, but the inside had changed dramatically since I was there last. And that turned out to have been a few years, as I was apalled to discover when the cashier told me the "new" management took over 2 1/2 years ago. Oops. Guess I've been busy with other markets. I'll be going back more frequently now, though. It's a treasure trove of goodies.

Continue reading "Grocery Store Love" »

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 1:08 PM | Permalink | Comments (6) | TrackBacks (0)

This being Northern California, there are lots of choices for wines produced within 100 miles, and even if you limit it to 50, you can easily be a lushy locavore. But let's say you want to grace your Thanksgiving table with the most locally produced wine you can? In that case, you'd be hard pressed to find a much closer winery than Revolution Wines in Midtown.

Just opened this summer at 21st and P Streets, the Revolution tasting room and winery was brought to fruition by Jason Fernandez and Joe Genshlea. They won a gold medal for their Zinfandel at this year's State Fair and they also have a Pinot Grigio for sipping. You can find Revolution wines at several local restaurants and markets. Check out their Web site for the latest list. And if you like what you find, you can also sign up for their Revolution Wine Club.

But man can live by wine alone (much as he might want to try), so check out our post from last year on eating locally for Thanksgiving, and give thanks for all the wonderful choices we have in local food and drink!

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 2:43 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

What: La Clarine Farm Sierra Mountain Tomme goat cheese, a semi-hard nutty raw milk cheese aged two to three months.

Why: La Clarine is a biodynamic farm in the foothills, where they raise American Alpine goats with no antibiotics. Hank Beckmeyer and Caroline Hoel compost the goat manure for fertilizer, use native plants and vegetation, and let the goats roam big pastures. They also grow wine grapes, keep honeybees, and make goat milk soaps.

Where: You can buy La Clarine cheese locally at Taylor's and David Berkley, as well as at Allez! in El Dorado and Dedrick's Cheese in Placerville. Learn more about the goats, the style of farming, and their other products at La Clarine Farm.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 2:27 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

This week at Sacatomato, we're knee-deep in almonds, getting ready for a big dinner tomorrow with the Almond Board of California. But one of the neatest things on the menu is going to be a squash I had never heard of before a couple of weeks ago. It's called tromboncino (see above; thanks to Garrett for the fine photo). Suzanne Ashworth at Del Rio Botanical grows them, and they are curved squash with a small seed cavity. I'll be peeling and julienning them to make squash noodles with almond oil and slivered almonds. The trick is the julienning though. Luckily, Suzanne also pointed me toward a julienne peeler (see below), which makes very fine strands that don't even need to be cooked. You can find one at East Bay Restaurant Supply, where I got mine, the Kuhn Rikon 2200 Julienne Peeler. I'm looking forward to using it on other vegetables to make thin strands of potato for tender bird's nests or on beets for a fluff of red to crown a plate.

Another interesting produce item I just came across is an article that came out in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, from nearby UCDavis. The very scientific article, "Ten-Year Comparison of the Influence of Organic and Conventional Crop Management Practices on the Content of Flavonoids in Tomatoes " came out this past June. It reports that quercetin and other flavonoid levels in organic tomatoes were 79 to 97 percent higher than in conventionally grown tomatoes. What's more, the levels increased over years of successive organic farming. So that's more good news for our organic farmers and purveyors, like the Sacramento Co-op. Don't short yourself on flavonoids! You didn't know you needed them a few years ago, but now they're all the rage.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 10:17 AM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

What: Aisu Pops and fresh beignets at the Davis farmer's market

Why: The pops are handmade in small batches with local fruits, veggies, and herbs and have creative flavor combinations like apricot-lavender, blueberry-grape with tarragon, raspberry-peach-orange pekoe tea, and kaffir limeade with avocado. The beignets are made on the spot and served with a fresh fruit sauce. Last week it was strawberry. Perfect for breakfast or a mid-market treat!

Where: Davis farmer's market (4th and C Streets), Wed. afternoons and Sat. mornings. Head for the area with the music, close to the 3rd Street end. You can learn more about Aisu Pops at their Web site.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 1:17 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

What: Any of the creamy handmade ice creams at Vic's on Riverside. There are flavors like Peppermint Stick, Boysenberry, Pumpkin (in the fall), Lemon Chiffon, and my favorite--Butter Brickle. You can also get ice cream pies, old-fashioned phosphates (fizzy drinks), and savory fare like hot dogs and grilled cheese sandwiches. Buy your ice cream hand scooped onto a cone or hand packed into pints and quarts. Or in a milkshake!

Why: Vic's celebrates its 60th anniversary this year in the same location! It's smack in the middle of the Land Park neighborhood, so there are always kids and dogs and adults of varying ages milling around for some ice cream happiness. Sit in a booth or on one of the counter stools or even outside on a bench built around a tree. The ice cream is made on the premises in the back of the shop. You'll also find newspapers handy for counter reading (recently the Bee, SF Chronicle, and NY Times were all represented), a great old clock, and photos of Vic's from when it opened in 1947. Don't miss out on this enduring neighborhood tradition. For just $3.75 you can have a double scoop of deliciousness to celebrate the summer.

Where: Vic's Ice Cream soda fountain, 3199 Riverside Blvd., 916-448-0892

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 10:30 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) is one of the neatest ways that you can support local farmers and get great produce to boot! By subscribing to a weekly (or in some cases, bi-weekly) box of produce, you guarantee the farmer a customer. In exchange, you get to try fruit, vegetable, and herb varieties that you might not otherwise. For example, in this week's box from Del Rio Botanicals was included:
Chard
Chard Stalks
Fresh Tarragon
Spring Bloomsdale Spinach
Whole Bunch Parsley
Turnips
Salad Greens
Oranges
Alfalfa Mint Tea

The American River College culinary program counts on these produce boxes every week to teach budding chefs about more than the mainstream ingredients.

And Del Rio is but one of a few farms in this area that offer CSAs. A quick search of Local Harvest turned up eight different farms offering CSAs, including Riverdog, Full Belly, Eatwell, and Student Harvests from UCDavis. You might find some that offer other items too, like the fresh-cut flower option from Soil Born Farm. Some farms require payment in advance by season, and some by the month. Find the one that fits your style and tastes.

When I lived in San Francisco, I subscribed to the Eatwell basket for years and learned a new love for dark, leafy greens, which were abundant in the wintertime. In the summer, they would sometimes trade with other farms to offer a wider selection of fruits and herbs or even nuts.

Suzanne Ashworth of Del Rio has met lots of kids whose parents subscribe to her CSA. "They know about different varieties of produce and they're only three or four!" she reports. "The bounty of each week's box is a real treat for them." And who doesn't love a surprise box of tasty goodies to explore? Order yours today!

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 1:00 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

What: Corti Brothers frozen cheese or meat ravioli

Why: Because you can't always cook from scratch, and these are tender little pillows of yumminess just waiting in your freezer to be boiled up. The cheese filling is a light, mild ricotta that goes well with a robust tomato sauce or a simple dressing of olive oil, garlic, and Parmesan. Buy them frozen and cook straight from the freezer. The pasta becomes al dente and not chewy, which is a real plus in frozen ravioli. Plus, don't you just love the retro package styling?

Where: Corti Brothers, 5810 Folsom Boulevard, in the freezer case

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 11:03 AM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

What: Bella Bru's perfect-for-the-new-year's-resolution bowl of "beautiful fruit" (bella frutta).

Why: It's a hearty serving of fresh and dried fruits, with a lightly sweetened yogurt, and really crunchy granola. A good way to start the day, and it will make you feel virtuous after the holiday season of rich food.

Where: locally owned Bella Bru Cafes in Carmichael (Fair Oaks & Arden), Natomas (Natomas & Del Paso), Folsom (E. Bidwell & Blue Ravine), and El Dorado Hills (Hwy. 50 & El Dorado Hills)

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 9:46 AM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

This is a bit different from my usual "Have You Tried" posts. This isn't a single product or menu item, but a whole store!

What: Sacramento Beekeeping Supplies

Why: Not just for beekeepers, this cool store, painted on the front to look like a honeycomb, has a great supply of local honey and other bee-related goodies. You can fine many different varieties of local honey: in jars, a creamed variety, and bulk. There are multiple colors of beeswax for rolling into candles (a great gift idea), Burt's Bees products, books, bee pins, and molded beeswax candles. You can also buy bee propolis and pollen for help with allergies and skin rashes. I like to take a jar of local honey and a wooden honey dipper to friends as a host present. And my family members always get long straws full of honey as stocking stuffers. Of course, if you are into beekeeping or think you want to be, this is the place to go for information.

Where: 2110 X Street, 451-2337

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 10:11 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)

Okay, the weather has turned cold. The stores have already filled their aisles with Christmas decorations and holiday music and even though I don't feel quite ready for the holidays I have had no choice but to start readying myself because there is no escaping the fact that 2006 is hurling its way to a close. But then it came...the first invitation of the season to “holiday pot luck". Quite often I am bad about purchasing a hostess gift during the other 11 1/2 months of the year, I don’t really know why this is and I am feeling slightly bad about it but nonetheless there is something about hosting a party during this time of the year that always makes me want to give them a little extra thank you. Which leads me to the little find that I discovered in Selland’s Market the other day...(which by the by is a treasure trove of hostess gifts) I purchased a package of Villettes which are thin, crisp, chocolate covered French tuile wafers made by Lyla's Chocolates out of Mill Valley. Superb! This is the perfect little something that says thank you for having me to your house. Believe me even your most discerning gourmets will be delighted.

Posted by Jennifer Cliff at 11:29 AM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

What: Pork Bao, or Chinese buns filled with a spicy pork mixture; come in steamed and baked varieties, and sometimes with other fillings (these are baked)

Where: King's Restaurant, 1500 West Capitol Avenue, West Sac, 371-8131
Make sure to call ahead by 10 a.m. on Saturday or Sunday—they're only made on the weekends.

Why: These are really best when they're fresh. The sweet, chewy dough gives way to a delicious filling of chunks of barbecued pork and sauce. You can reheat them (if you actually have leftovers), but I challenge you to not eat them all up. You'll want to order at least a dozen.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 9:41 AM | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBacks (0)

It occurred to me this morning after receiving an email regarding where to find quince that I should share with you a great resource that we have available to us should you be having one of those "where in the heck can I find that ingredient moment". PlacerGROWN is a nonprofit, membership organization formed to assist Placer County farmers and ranchers with marketing their produce and farm products. A goal of the organization is to bring farmers, ranchers and community members together to maintain and enhance the viability of agriculture in Placer County. And though it may not help you locate a desperately needed pantry item, it will indeed help you find everything from, yes, quince to local buttermilk. Now you might be thinking, hey I live in Sacramento or Davis I'm not going to drive to Placer for produce. But if you're like me, a half hour sounds a whole hell of alot better than not cooking at all. Check it out. If anything, it's wonderful to realize the access we have to such great producers and growers in our back yards. Oh and yes, this link did help find that quince, so that's always a good thing!

Please use this link to check it out for yourself...
PlacerGROWN

Posted by Jennifer Cliff at 11:41 AM | Permalink | Comments (4)

What: Abuelita's Sonora Style Corn Tortillas and Micaela's Original Recipe California Wheat Tortillas (whole wheat and white)

Where: Abuelita's at Corti Brothers and Nugget; Micaela's at Corti, Nugget, and the Sacramento Co-op

Why: These locally made tortillas (Abuelita's are from Sacramento and Micaela's are from Woodland) are beautifully irregular in shape and marked with flecks of brown from cooking. Both brands are moist without being gummy and they're flexible (no more broken tortillas for enchiladas!). Plus they're super delicious—even the Micaela's whole wheat version.

Perfect for quesadillas, which sounds great right about now.

Call 877-538-7972 for store that carry them.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 11:29 AM | Permalink | Comments (16) | TrackBacks (0)

What: Chanh Muoi, or salty lemonade

Where: Pho Bac Hoa Viet restaurant, 1827 Broadway in Sacramento and 305 1st Street in Davis

Why: If you like the interplay of salty and sweet, you have to try this drink. Made with lemons soaked in salty water (preserved lemons), it is especially refreshing with fried food. I got addicted to it during the incredible heat wave here, but it's great any time of year. Like fresh-squeezed lemonade, with salt added to downplay the sweetness.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 11:25 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

This is a new feature in which we'll give you short recommendations for great things in the capital area that you should really taste. They might be single menu items from a restaurant, types of produce from the farmer's market, or delicious finds from grocery stores. We'd love to get your feedback and recommendations for your own must-taste items.

What: Pimenton de la Vera, smoked Spanish (not Hungarian) paprika. Available in sweet, hot, and bitter.

Where: Corti Brothers, Folsom Boulevard

Why: The smoky flavor of this paprika adds a really distinctive level of flavor to any dish. I like to use it in vegetarian chilis and soups, to add a "meaty" flavor without meat. It also makes the best chicken paprikash could you wish for, and is a good secret ingredient in sauces and meatloaf.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 1:53 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

I always am looking for the next "it" item when I am at Corti Brothers market. Unlike any other market that I have ever patronized, Corti has items that no one else carries. The candy aisle is no exception. My partner in Sacatomato, Ann, turned me on to the salted licorice, which I am going to have to revisit in a separate post because my husband threw away the wrapper and I can't recall the name. Which brings me to my current muse: as I was standing in line I noticed these nicely packaged little 6oz bags of caramels, now I am not a huge caramel lover but there isn't a sweet that I won't try. Giving in to my epicurean fatal flaw, I put it on the conveyor belt along with some dark chocolate covered almonds that didn’t make it home. The candies are made locally, as indicated by the Citrus Heights address, and a visit to the website doesn't really give you much more information. However, they did have a listing of what items they make and I have pasted it below. So the next time you are standing in line at Corti's I do recommend a Mona's candy to aid you in your drive home.

Continue reading "A Sweet Find" »

Posted by Jennifer Cliff at 8:51 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Just because you're going to the state fair doesn't mean that you have to eat the new Krispy Kreme chicken sandwich (over 600 calories!). Stop by the California Foodstyle building (#2 in the tower buildings) and catch some of the chef demos, cooking contests, and fair judging. There are also free samples of honey, cheese, and, if you're lucky, some chef-made food. These were the three recipes that I demonstrated today, using pears.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 4:53 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Take a drive down Broadway in Sacramento, and you get just an inkling of the diverse cultures in our area. From Hong Kong Cafe to Sweet Fingers Jamaican restaurant, Hoa Viet to Kathmandu Kitchen Indian-Nepalese restaurant, and Pancho’s Mexican to Taste of Thai. That’s just the western end of this ethnic smorgasbord of eating choices! Venture a bit further down Stockton, Florin, or Folsom, and you’ll find all of the ingredients to make practically any cuisine you choose.

TIME magazine christened Sacramento “America’s Most Diverse City” in 2002, shortly after the latest census, because of our uniquely integrated population. Including the surrounding metro area and neighboring counties, we are perhaps the model for the future of the state, and even that of the country, where no one group is in the majority. But how did the Central Valley become so ethnically mixed and what effect has it had on the foods that we eat every day?

Continue reading "The Most Diverse Area in the Country?: A Melting Pot of Cuisines" »

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 9:46 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)