What: Freezlets are natural frozen fruitsicles made by Lorena Leibman in Roseville. I first discovered them at the State Fair, and then again at the Jazz Jubilee. They're also known as paletas in Spanish. Freezlets are made with no artificial colors, concentrates, or corn syrup and they come in some great, unusual flavors.

Why: For Father's Day this year, I bought my husband a box of 25 chile-flavored freezlets. Lorena gave us a mix of three flavors: strawberry-serrano, mango-pineapple-habanero, and pineapple-serrano. They're cold and hot at the same time--perfect for this crazily hot and smoky weather.

You can get your own box of these luscious licks for only $30. Choose from flavors like strawberry, lime, and coconut, or more unusual varieties like butterscotch, peanut butter, and cheesecake (or those chile-flecked flavors!). They also have tiny baby-friendly non-sugar freezets and a white chocolate-covered raspberry variation that I need to try soon. Imagine the joy of having a stock of great 'sicles for your next party or just to cool you off every day!

Where: Visit the freezlets Web site for more info. and a list of their flavors or contact lorena at orders@freezlets.com or 916-784-0101.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 11:24 AM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

Last Thursday, I got the opportunity to assist cookbook author Diana Kennedy with a presentation for her re-released cookbook The Art of Mexican Cooking It was originally published in 1989, but this new version is slightly redesigned to give more prominence to the area of Mexico from which each recipe comes.

Diana demonstrated three recipes that we all got to taste: Tamales de Flor de Calabaza (Squash Flower Tamales), Nopales Salad (Cactus Paddles), and Barbacoa de Pollo (Barbecued Chicken) with Salsa Verde. This is hardly similar to the overcheesy version of "Mexican" food we often get in the States. It was all bursting with color and flavor--rather than just fat. I immediately made a shopping list to prepare the nopales and chicken again this past weekend.

Diana has lived in Mexico for 50 years and has written and studied the cuisine extensively. So she's given to some pronouncements, such as, "Use pork lard, please; none of this fancy oil stuff." She was also heard to mutter, "Such a lot of waste" when talking about how people often discard cilantro stems and other perfectly usable (or compostable) parts of food. And she was full of tips and preferences, like her caution to ONLY use hot water when filling a tamale steamer and never to remove the seeds and ribs from fresh chiles. (Unless, of course, you want to make them more mild.)

Her recipes are not for the starter cook. You do need some sense of cooking times and textures. But I had great success with my versions of two of her recipes. So I thought you might like to know where her assistants and I bought some of the Mexican ingredients and cooking equipment.

Continue reading "Cooking with Diana Kennedy" »

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 12:08 PM | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBacks (0)

As Northern Californians, we're pretty spoiled when it comes to wineries within 100 miles. I mean, that gets you to Napa and Sonoma--the wine meccas of the west coast. But since I moved to Sacramento, I've been a big fan of drinking more local wines, including those from Lodi and Clarksburg. Recently, though, I got to try an even more local wine, as in less than 2 miles from downtown. You can't get much more local than that, unless you're making your own.

The wines I sipped right next to their barrels, without even leaving the city, are from Rail Bridge Cellars. Sac native Jon Affonso is the owner and winemaker. He finally realized his dream of an urban winery last year when he opened Rail Bridge in an old car body shop (once again, a foodie use for an old auto shop) on N. 16th Street. His first two wines came about when he asked himself, "What does Sacramento want to drink?" Jon took his background in enology from Fresno State, experience making wines in France and California, and did some statistical analysis of the Sacramento market. Thus he chose to release his first two wines: a 2006 Sauvignon Blanc made with Dry Creek Valley fruit and a 2004 Lattice (a blend of 5 Bordeaux varietals) with Napa County fruit.

I'm no wine expert, but I drink my fair share and I know what I like. Dry whites are it for me--especially in the hot summers here--and the Rail Bridge Sauvignon is a terrific example. It's fermented in steel tanks and has citrus and green apple flavors. Since he first learned to make wine in France, Jon follows the French tendency toward wines that are great with food--not just for drinking on their own. He likes to pair the Sauvignon with Fish Tacos, Melon Ball Salad, Shrimp or Crab Louis Salad, and Chicken Enchiladas. The Lattice, on the other hand, is a hearty wine aged in French oak barrels (which are amazingly expensive and made by hand). It wasn't so robust that it would overwhelm food with its fruit, though, and Jon likes to serve it with Grilled Salmon, Roasted Chicken, and Grilled Rib Eye Steak with Fries.

I had a few questions for him after the tasting, and here's what he said:

Continue reading "You Can't Get More Local Than Rail Bridge" »

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 1:52 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

I love grocery stores. Not just for the food, but for the possibilities. Everywhere I go, I love to visit grocery stores, and have--from Sri Lanka to Kauai to Costa Rica. It's a bit food geeky of me, but there's no better way to gauge a community than by its markets. And there are so many interesting choices that it's always hard not to buy more than necessary (hence my overstocked pantry of condiments and sauces). It's especially fun if you can't read the language on the labels, as that makes you guess the contents. This is a bit tricky in Japanese groceries, though, as they like to put cute cartoon figures on food that have nothing to do with the ingredients. (Panda cookies? Hello Kitty soup?) And you have to be willing to take your taste chances. One unfortunate candy I tried was like roasted corn. Not a good flavor in a gummy candy.

So you'll find lots of market reviews on Sacatomato, and the latest is a good one. It's Prime Supermarket, just south of Land Park. I'd been there before, where it resides in a sort of rundown shopping center with a La Bou, a dry cleaners, and a Macau restaurant that bears trying (Portuguese crossed with Chinese!). But recently some friends reported that the store had become primarily Indian, so I had to go see.

It's still got the same sign that it used to, but the inside had changed dramatically since I was there last. And that turned out to have been a few years, as I was apalled to discover when the cashier told me the "new" management took over 2 1/2 years ago. Oops. Guess I've been busy with other markets. I'll be going back more frequently now, though. It's a treasure trove of goodies.

Continue reading "Grocery Store Love" »

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 1:08 PM | Permalink | Comments (6) | TrackBacks (0)

This being Northern California, there are lots of choices for wines produced within 100 miles, and even if you limit it to 50, you can easily be a lushy locavore. But let's say you want to grace your Thanksgiving table with the most locally produced wine you can? In that case, you'd be hard pressed to find a much closer winery than Revolution Wines in Midtown.

Just opened this summer at 21st and P Streets, the Revolution tasting room and winery was brought to fruition by Jason Fernandez and Joe Genshlea. They won a gold medal for their Zinfandel at this year's State Fair and they also have a Pinot Grigio for sipping. You can find Revolution wines at several local restaurants and markets. Check out their Web site for the latest list. And if you like what you find, you can also sign up for their Revolution Wine Club.

But man can live by wine alone (much as he might want to try), so check out our post from last year on eating locally for Thanksgiving, and give thanks for all the wonderful choices we have in local food and drink!

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 2:43 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

What: La Clarine Farm Sierra Mountain Tomme goat cheese, a semi-hard nutty raw milk cheese aged two to three months.

Why: La Clarine is a biodynamic farm in the foothills, where they raise American Alpine goats with no antibiotics. Hank Beckmeyer and Caroline Hoel compost the goat manure for fertilizer, use native plants and vegetation, and let the goats roam big pastures. They also grow wine grapes, keep honeybees, and make goat milk soaps.

Where: You can buy La Clarine cheese locally at Taylor's and David Berkley, as well as at Allez! in El Dorado and Dedrick's Cheese in Placerville. Learn more about the goats, the style of farming, and their other products at La Clarine Farm.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 2:27 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

This week at Sacatomato, we're knee-deep in almonds, getting ready for a big dinner tomorrow with the Almond Board of California. But one of the neatest things on the menu is going to be a squash I had never heard of before a couple of weeks ago. It's called tromboncino (see above; thanks to Garrett for the fine photo). Suzanne Ashworth at Del Rio Botanical grows them, and they are curved squash with a small seed cavity. I'll be peeling and julienning them to make squash noodles with almond oil and slivered almonds. The trick is the julienning though. Luckily, Suzanne also pointed me toward a julienne peeler (see below), which makes very fine strands that don't even need to be cooked. You can find one at East Bay Restaurant Supply, where I got mine, the Kuhn Rikon 2200 Julienne Peeler. I'm looking forward to using it on other vegetables to make thin strands of potato for tender bird's nests or on beets for a fluff of red to crown a plate.

Another interesting produce item I just came across is an article that came out in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, from nearby UCDavis. The very scientific article, "Ten-Year Comparison of the Influence of Organic and Conventional Crop Management Practices on the Content of Flavonoids in Tomatoes " came out this past June. It reports that quercetin and other flavonoid levels in organic tomatoes were 79 to 97 percent higher than in conventionally grown tomatoes. What's more, the levels increased over years of successive organic farming. So that's more good news for our organic farmers and purveyors, like the Sacramento Co-op. Don't short yourself on flavonoids! You didn't know you needed them a few years ago, but now they're all the rage.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 10:17 AM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

What: Aisu Pops and fresh beignets at the Davis farmer's market

Why: The pops are handmade in small batches with local fruits, veggies, and herbs and have creative flavor combinations like apricot-lavender, blueberry-grape with tarragon, raspberry-peach-orange pekoe tea, and kaffir limeade with avocado. The beignets are made on the spot and served with a fresh fruit sauce. Last week it was strawberry. Perfect for breakfast or a mid-market treat!

Where: Davis farmer's market (4th and C Streets), Wed. afternoons and Sat. mornings. Head for the area with the music, close to the 3rd Street end. You can learn more about Aisu Pops at their Web site.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 1:17 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

What: Any of the creamy handmade ice creams at Vic's on Riverside. There are flavors like Peppermint Stick, Boysenberry, Pumpkin (in the fall), Lemon Chiffon, and my favorite--Butter Brickle. You can also get ice cream pies, old-fashioned phosphates (fizzy drinks), and savory fare like hot dogs and grilled cheese sandwiches. Buy your ice cream hand scooped onto a cone or hand packed into pints and quarts. Or in a milkshake!

Why: Vic's celebrates its 60th anniversary this year in the same location! It's smack in the middle of the Land Park neighborhood, so there are always kids and dogs and adults of varying ages milling around for some ice cream happiness. Sit in a booth or on one of the counter stools or even outside on a bench built around a tree. The ice cream is made on the premises in the back of the shop. You'll also find newspapers handy for counter reading (recently the Bee, SF Chronicle, and NY Times were all represented), a great old clock, and photos of Vic's from when it opened in 1947. Don't miss out on this enduring neighborhood tradition. For just $3.75 you can have a double scoop of deliciousness to celebrate the summer.

Where: Vic's Ice Cream soda fountain, 3199 Riverside Blvd., 916-448-0892

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 10:30 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) is one of the neatest ways that you can support local farmers and get great produce to boot! By subscribing to a weekly (or in some cases, bi-weekly) box of produce, you guarantee the farmer a customer. In exchange, you get to try fruit, vegetable, and herb varieties that you might not otherwise. For example, in this week's box from Del Rio Botanicals was included:
Chard
Chard Stalks
Fresh Tarragon
Spring Bloomsdale Spinach
Whole Bunch Parsley
Turnips
Salad Greens
Oranges
Alfalfa Mint Tea

The American River College culinary program counts on these produce boxes every week to teach budding chefs about more than the mainstream ingredients.

And Del Rio is but one of a few farms in this area that offer CSAs. A quick search of Local Harvest turned up eight different farms offering CSAs, including Riverdog, Full Belly, Eatwell, and Student Harvests from UCDavis. You might find some that offer other items too, like the fresh-cut flower option from Soil Born Farm. Some farms require payment in advance by season, and some by the month. Find the one that fits your style and tastes.

When I lived in San Francisco, I subscribed to the Eatwell basket for years and learned a new love for dark, leafy greens, which were abundant in the wintertime. In the summer, they would sometimes trade with other farms to offer a wider selection of fruits and herbs or even nuts.

Suzanne Ashworth of Del Rio has met lots of kids whose parents subscribe to her CSA. "They know about different varieties of produce and they're only three or four!" she reports. "The bounty of each week's box is a real treat for them." And who doesn't love a surprise box of tasty goodies to explore? Order yours today!

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 1:00 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

What: Corti Brothers frozen cheese or meat ravioli

Why: Because you can't always cook from scratch, and these are tender little pillows of yumminess just waiting in your freezer to be boiled up. The cheese filling is a light, mild ricotta that goes well with a robust tomato sauce or a simple dressing of olive oil, garlic, and Parmesan. Buy them frozen and cook straight from the freezer. The pasta becomes al dente and not chewy, which is a real plus in frozen ravioli. Plus, don't you just love the retro package styling?

Where: Corti Brothers, 5810 Folsom Boulevard, in the freezer case

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 11:03 AM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

What: Bella Bru's perfect-for-the-new-year's-resolution bowl of "beautiful fruit" (bella frutta).

Why: It's a hearty serving of fresh and dried fruits, with a lightly sweetened yogurt, and really crunchy granola. A good way to start the day, and it will make you feel virtuous after the holiday season of rich food.

Where: locally owned Bella Bru Cafes in Carmichael (Fair Oaks & Arden), Natomas (Natomas & Del Paso), Folsom (E. Bidwell & Blue Ravine), and El Dorado Hills (Hwy. 50 & El Dorado Hills)

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 9:46 AM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

This is a bit different from my usual "Have You Tried" posts. This isn't a single product or menu item, but a whole store!

What: Sacramento Beekeeping Supplies

Why: Not just for beekeepers, this cool store, painted on the front to look like a honeycomb, has a great supply of local honey and other bee-related goodies. You can fine many different varieties of local honey: in jars, a creamed variety, and bulk. There are multiple colors of beeswax for rolling into candles (a great gift idea), Burt's Bees products, books, bee pins, and molded beeswax candles. You can also buy bee propolis and pollen for help with allergies and skin rashes. I like to take a jar of local honey and a wooden honey dipper to friends as a host present. And my family members always get long straws full of honey as stocking stuffers. Of course, if you are into beekeeping or think you want to be, this is the place to go for information.

Where: 2110 X Street, 451-2337

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 10:11 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)

Okay, the weather has turned cold. The stores have already filled their aisles with Christmas decorations and holiday music and even though I don't feel quite ready for the holidays I have had no choice but to start readying myself because there is no escaping the fact that 2006 is hurling its way to a close. But then it came...the first invitation of the season to “holiday pot luck". Quite often I am bad about purchasing a hostess gift during the other 11 1/2 months of the year, I don’t really know why this is and I am feeling slightly bad about it but nonetheless there is something about hosting a party during this time of the year that always makes me want to give them a little extra thank you. Which leads me to the little find that I discovered in Selland’s Market the other day...(which by the by is a treasure trove of hostess gifts) I purchased a package of Villettes which are thin, crisp, chocolate covered French tuile wafers made by Lyla's Chocolates out of Mill Valley. Superb! This is the perfect little something that says thank you for having me to your house. Believe me even your most discerning gourmets will be delighted.

Posted by Jennifer Cliff at 11:29 AM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

What: Pork Bao, or Chinese buns filled with a spicy pork mixture; come in steamed and baked varieties, and sometimes with other fillings (these are baked)

Where: King's Restaurant, 1500 West Capitol Avenue, West Sac, 371-8131
Make sure to call ahead by 10 a.m. on Saturday or Sunday—they're only made on the weekends.

Why: These are really best when they're fresh. The sweet, chewy dough gives way to a delicious filling of chunks of barbecued pork and sauce. You can reheat them (if you actually have leftovers), but I challenge you to not eat them all up. You'll want to order at least a dozen.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 9:41 AM | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBacks (0)

It occurred to me this morning after receiving an email regarding where to find quince that I should share with you a great resource that we have available to us should you be having one of those "where in the heck can I find that ingredient moment". PlacerGROWN is a nonprofit, membership organization formed to assist Placer County farmers and ranchers with marketing their produce and farm products. A goal of the organization is to bring farmers, ranchers and community members together to maintain and enhance the viability of agriculture in Placer County. And though it may not help you locate a desperately needed pantry item, it will indeed help you find everything from, yes, quince to local buttermilk. Now you might be thinking, hey I live in Sacramento or Davis I'm not going to drive to Placer for produce. But if you're like me, a half hour sounds a whole hell of alot better than not cooking at all. Check it out. If anything, it's wonderful to realize the access we have to such great producers and growers in our back yards. Oh and yes, this link did help find that quince, so that's always a good thing!

Please use this link to check it out for yourself...
PlacerGROWN

Posted by Jennifer Cliff at 11:41 AM | Permalink | Comments (4)

What: Abuelita's Sonora Style Corn Tortillas and Micaela's Original Recipe California Wheat Tortillas (whole wheat and white)

Where: Abuelita's at Corti Brothers and Nugget; Micaela's at Corti, Nugget, and the Sacramento Co-op

Why: These locally made tortillas (Abuelita's are from Sacramento and Micaela's are from Woodland) are beautifully irregular in shape and marked with flecks of brown from cooking. Both brands are moist without being gummy and they're flexible (no more broken tortillas for enchiladas!). Plus they're super delicious—even the Micaela's whole wheat version.

Perfect for quesadillas, which sounds great right about now.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 11:29 AM | Permalink | Comments (8) | TrackBacks (0)

What: Chanh Muoi, or salty lemonade

Where: Pho Bac Hoa Viet restaurant, 1827 Broadway in Sacramento and 305 1st Street in Davis

Why: If you like the interplay of salty and sweet, you have to try this drink. Made with lemons soaked in salty water (preserved lemons), it is especially refreshing with fried food. I got addicted to it during the incredible heat wave here, but it's great any time of year. Like fresh-squeezed lemonade, with salt added to downplay the sweetness.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 11:25 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

This is a new feature in which we'll give you short recommendations for great things in the capital area that you should really taste. They might be single menu items from a restaurant, types of produce from the farmer's market, or delicious finds from grocery stores. We'd love to get your feedback and recommendations for your own must-taste items.

What: Pimenton de la Vera, smoked Spanish (not Hungarian) paprika. Available in sweet, hot, and bitter.

Where: Corti Brothers, Folsom Boulevard

Why: The smoky flavor of this paprika adds a really distinctive level of flavor to any dish. I like to use it in vegetarian chilis and soups, to add a "meaty" flavor without meat. It also makes the best chicken paprikash could you wish for, and is a good secret ingredient in sauces and meatloaf.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 1:53 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

I always am looking for the next "it" item when I am at Corti Brothers market. Unlike any other market that I have ever patronized, Corti has items that no one else carries. The candy aisle is no exception. My partner in Sacatomato, Ann, turned me on to the salted licorice, which I am going to have to revisit in a separate post because my husband threw away the wrapper and I can't recall the name. Which brings me to my current muse: as I was standing in line I noticed these nicely packaged little 6oz bags of caramels, now I am not a huge caramel lover but there isn't a sweet that I won't try. Giving in to my epicurean fatal flaw, I put it on the conveyor belt along with some dark chocolate covered almonds that didn’t make it home. The candies are made locally, as indicated by the Citrus Heights address, and a visit to the website doesn't really give you much more information. However, they did have a listing of what items they make and I have pasted it below. So the next time you are standing in line at Corti's I do recommend a Mona's candy to aid you in your drive home.

Continue reading "A Sweet Find" »

Posted by Jennifer Cliff at 8:51 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Just because you're going to the state fair doesn't mean that you have to eat the new Krispy Kreme chicken sandwich (over 600 calories!). Stop by the California Foodstyle building (#2 in the tower buildings) and catch some of the chef demos, cooking contests, and fair judging. There are also free samples of honey, cheese, and, if you're lucky, some chef-made food. These were the three recipes that I demonstrated today, using pears.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 4:53 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Take a drive down Broadway in Sacramento, and you get just an inkling of the diverse cultures in our area. From Hong Kong Cafe to Sweet Fingers Jamaican restaurant, Hoa Viet to Kathmandu Kitchen Indian-Nepalese restaurant, and Pancho’s Mexican to Taste of Thai. That’s just the western end of this ethnic smorgasbord of eating choices! Venture a bit further down Stockton, Florin, or Folsom, and you’ll find all of the ingredients to make practically any cuisine you choose.

TIME magazine christened Sacramento “America’s Most Diverse City” in 2002, shortly after the latest census, because of our uniquely integrated population. Including the surrounding metro area and neighboring counties, we are perhaps the model for the future of the state, and even that of the country, where no one group is in the majority. But how did the Central Valley become so ethnically mixed and what effect has it had on the foods that we eat every day?

Continue reading "The Most Diverse Area in the Country?: A Melting Pot of Cuisines" »

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 9:46 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)