Using the Harvest: Meyer Lemons

Limone, Limón, Citrón? Not sure how I got hooked on them but remember my dad telling me I couldn’t eat more than one a day when I was a kid because the acid would eat the enamel off my teeth. My dad loved gardening, hunting, fishing and growing things, thus we always had a big garden and fruit trees, including a Meyer Lemon in our backyard. Oh how I enjoyed hanging with him and putzing around the garden. I was responsible for watering when he went on trips (he was a pilot). I consider myself lucky to have had a dad who treasured growing his own produce.

Last year I tried marmalade, which didn’t quite set but was a great addition to vinaigrette and dessert sauce. This year I made cake. A Meyer Lemon Cake with Chardonnay Sauce to be exact.

A recipe caught my eye in a Bonny Doon Vineyard’s newsletter a while back. Most intriguing was the use of olive oil. While I’ve heard of olive oil type cakes, I’d never made one and wanted to know how olive oil would actually taste in a cake.
It wasn’t too sweet and fairly light on it’s own, with subtle flavors of olive oil, but the aroma made me think savory. Conveniently the top had sunk a tad, so I added a thin layer of freshly made quince paste, a.k.a. Membrillo, I’d made the day before. The wine sauce brought it all together. At first I poured a little on top and watched it soak into the cake’s sides. Hum… more to soak, more taste. I settled on a slice in a puddle.
Since I’d polished the Viognier months before and a minimally oaked Chardonnay was open, chardonnay it was.
I always make candied lemon peels (I’ve graduated from eating raw lemons to candied peels which satiate the sweet tooth I inherited from my dad), and have used Meyers but peels from the more common Eureka or Lisbon are thicker, thus may be better to use. I added some to garnish the cake.

Before the Sugar

After the Sugar
Here’s the recipe with changes from that newsletter.
Meyer Lemon Olive Oil Cake with Chardonnay Sauce
3 lemons, zested and juiced
1 cup cake flour
5 eggs, separated
1 ¾ cup sugar
¾ cup olive oil
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup white wine (Chardonnay or Viognier)
Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-inch spring form pan with oil and line with parchment paper.
Zest 2 lemons and whisk together with flour.
Halve and squeeze lemons.
In a large bowl, beat egg yolks and ½ cup sugar on high, until thick and pale (a few minutes). Reduce speed, add oil and lemon juice, beating until combined. Fold in flour mixture.
Whisk egg whites and salt until foamy, then slowly add ¼ cup sugar until the whites just hold their peaks.

Whip Those Whites!
Gently fold 1/3 of the whipped whites into the yolk mixture, then fold in the remaining whites until just combined.
Pour batter into pan. Sprinkle 1 ½ tablespoons of sugar over the top. Bake until the top is golden brown and a toothpick comes out clean (about 25 to 35 minutes). When done, place on a rack to cool for 10 minutes, then run a knife around the edge of the pan and release spring form.
For Sauce: Combine 1 cup sugar with wine in a saucepan. Bring to a boil then reduce heat to a simmer. Simmer until reduced a bit and thicker. (I ended up using about 2 cups of wine and more sugar because there wasn’t going to be enough sauce once reduced.)
Meyers are milder, sweeter and less acidic than a regular grocery store lemon, they’re a cross between a true lemon (true?) and a mandarin orange and in season from December to April. I’m always looking for new things to do with the juice so I hope you’ll share!
If you are looking for Meyer lemons, lime varieties or Mandarins, check out Snow's Citrus Court in Newcastle.

Comments
I grew up having lemon syrup to make lemonade at home. Simple syrup infused with ginger (julienne fresh ginger and add to the simple syrup). when it cools down, add freshly squeezed lemon juice and store in a bottle in the refrigerator. When you are ready to serve a table spoon of lemon syrup with sparkling water and mint for garnish!
Posted by: shankari | December 29, 2009 4:15 PM
Your Meyer lemon pictures, ideas, recipes – WOW…we’re going to do them all!
Thank you for the mention of our grove! Very thoughtful of you. We have some delicious and beautiful Meyer lemons.
Love the inclusion in the text of the relationship with your Dad…and how special it was (and is) to grow stuff you eat!
Posted by: Raylene | December 30, 2009 8:23 AM
We love it! More please.
D and A
Posted by: D | December 30, 2009 8:55 AM
The quince paste on top of the cake sounds interesting. I love to munch on candied lemon rinds. You've inspired me :)
Posted by: Gracie | January 5, 2010 3:28 PM