With our cocktails in hand (the sazerac with a different rye was slightly watery, but nevertheless tasty), we were presented with shot glasses of heirloom tomato gazpacho for the amuse bouche. (In French, this means "mouth entertainment" and is a complimentary hors d'oeuvre.) The soup was a burst of fresh tomato flavor with an unusual creaminess to it. Delicious sliced crusty bread and room temperature butter arrived as well. I've always hated getting cold butter for my bread, so that was another nice touch.

Our appetizers were "Green Bean Beignets" with lemon aioli and an ahi tuna tartare with preserved lemon and pine nuts. Since my husband grew up in New Orleans, anything with the word "beignet" gets immediate attention. Intrigued by a savory version, we settled on that one quickly. When it came to the table, though, it was a tall pile of battered and fried green beans more of the tempura vein. They were not really beignets (which means "fritter" or "doughnut" in French), but they were delicious--crunchy beans and a light, crisp crust that paired nicely with the tart aioli. I found them just slightly too salty, but my husband thought they were fine. The tartare was presented with a raw quail egg cracked on top and the server mixed it into the ahi at the table, showing a deft hand with the utensils. The unusual spicing included cumin, which lended the tartare a more Indian or Moroccan flavor than the usual Asian profile. We really enjoyed the different take on tuna tartare.

For entrees, I ordered the housemade tagliarini with tomatoes, pancetta, and pesto, while my husband asked for advice on his order. He was wavering between the short ribs and the duck confit and the server immediately recommended the ribs. Well, the thin and tender pasta was delicious, with a just-right pesto and some long strands of zucchini mirroring the noodles. But the short ribs. Oh. my. God. They were like crack on a plate. They had been braised until they fell off the bones, then reassembled into a disk on top of a crispy potato pancake and surrounded by sweet corn puree and a demi glace that my husband called "pork molasses." We scraped every last drop of sauce off the plate and thought about licking it. The waiter later said that this dish has been on the menu for a while, because when they took it off they got too many complaints and had to reinstate it. It wasn't too rich--just meltingly delicious and perfectly balanced. Heavenly.

As if we weren't already full, we had to get three desserts (this WAS a celebration): panacotta wth blackberries and peaches, Valrhona mousse and gelato, and brioche beignets with salty caramel sauce. The dessert beignets were the real deal, although cakier than a New Orleans version. They arrived swaddled in a cloth napkin, with small servings of the caramel and a vanilla sauce. The caramel sauce was in the short ribs category--achingly good and calling for plate licking. The mousse and gelato were both smooth and rich, with that characteristic fruitiness of the Valrhona brand of chocolate. And the panacotta was looser than I've had before, but the flavor was wonderfully complemented by the fresh fruit. Some crisp-tender madeleines finished the plate. With coffee and a Jamaican herbal tea that tasted like passionfruit, we were stuffed to the gills.

Overall, the success of this dinner had a lot to do with both the great service and the great balance of flavors in each of the dishes. We never needed to ask for more water or pour our own wine. We noticed that the table of six next to us had all of their plates brought at the same time; that is, three waiters each brought two plates so that everyone received their food at once. It was a nice touch, and not one you see often. While several of the dishes we ordered could have been too rich or too large, they were all just the right portion to satisfy you but leave you eager for another visit. That's something you really don't see that often around here, and it's both difficult to gauge and clever on the part of the chefs (husband and wife Molly Hawks and Michael Fagnoni, who worked previously at the acclaimed Village Pub). Their attention to detail on all fronts is clear without being fussy. Their restaurant is a winner that you should get to at once. And don't wait for a special event; they serve lunch, brunch, and a casual lounge menu as well.

Hawks Restaurant
5530 Douglas Boulevard, Quarry Ponds Town Center
Granite Bay
916-791-6200
lunch Mon-Fri 11:30 to 2:30; brunch Sat, Sun 10 to 2:30; dinner nightly 5 to 10; the lounge is open all day