Cooking with Diana Kennedy

Last Thursday, I got the opportunity to assist cookbook author Diana Kennedy with a presentation for her re-released cookbook The Art of Mexican Cooking It was originally published in 1989, but this new version is slightly redesigned to give more prominence to the area of Mexico from which each recipe comes.


Diana demonstrated three recipes that we all got to taste: Tamales de Flor de Calabaza (Squash Flower Tamales), Nopales Salad (Cactus Paddles), and Barbacoa de Pollo (Barbecued Chicken) with Salsa Verde. This is hardly similar to the overcheesy version of "Mexican" food we often get in the States. It was all bursting with color and flavor--rather than just fat. I immediately made a shopping list to prepare the nopales and chicken again this past weekend.
Diana has lived in Mexico for 50 years and has written and studied the cuisine extensively. So she's given to some pronouncements, such as, "Use pork lard, please; none of this fancy oil stuff." She was also heard to mutter, "Such a lot of waste" when talking about how people often discard cilantro stems and other perfectly usable (or compostable) parts of food. And she was full of tips and preferences, like her caution to ONLY use hot water when filling a tamale steamer and never to remove the seeds and ribs from fresh chiles. (Unless, of course, you want to make them more mild.)
Her recipes are not for the starter cook. You do need some sense of cooking times and textures. But I had great success with my versions of two of her recipes. So I thought you might like to know where her assistants and I bought some of the Mexican ingredients and cooking equipment.

- Squash blossoms: bought from Produce Express (which is wholesale), but you can sometimes find them at a farmer's market or in your own garden. Or you can special order them from Nugget Market. Summer squash is notoriously prolific, so don't worry if you pick some of the blossoms. You'll still have plenty of squash.
- Nopales: La Superior is a great Mexican grocery with locations on Stockton Blvd. and Northgate. Pick plump cactus paddles that aren't shriveled. Carefully scrape off the thorns with the edge of a knife.
- Epazote: this is an herb with a creosote-like smell, but many uses. It's often added to cooking beans to reduce their gas production. You can also make it into a tea for the same effect. It grows very easily in Sacramento and is a perennial. You can also buy it at La Superior or Nugget. Look for fresh, but dried is sometimes easier to find.
- Corn tortillas and masa: Roseville Tortilla Factory makes thin tortillas that Diana especially liked. She also convinced them to sell her masa without the lard already added. That was because she wanted to add her own (the pork lard, see above). You can buy tamale masa at La Superior also, but it already has lard added. La Esperanza on Franklin also has masa. Note that masa for tortillas and tamales is slightly different in texture.
- Avocado leaves: sometimes you can get these at a market, but you'll probably have better luck sourcing them from a neighbor with a tree if you don't have one of your own. Diana said that these are sometimes toasted and added as an ingredient to tamales as well.
- Lard: There's a difference between hydrogenated lard and unhydrogenated. Look for the latter. It was bought at La Esperanza for the demo.
- Fresh and dried chiles: Some of these are often available in regular grocery stores like Safeway and Corti Brothers, but the best and cheapest selection is at a Mexican grocery. Note that anchos are sometimes listed as pasillas, which is apparently common in southern Mexico.
- Corn husks: La Esperanza or La Superior. There are LOTS in a package, so don't overbuy. They do last well at room temperature if sealed, though.
- Banana leaves: I saw large packages at La Superior, but you can also sometimes find them frozen in Asian markets. I'd try Vinh Phat on Stockton, since they seem to have everything.
- Tamale steamers, tortillas presses, other equipment: Most large Mexican groceries will have these, at very reasonable prices. The beauty of a steamer in the photo above came from a trip to Mexico, and you can certainly use a bamboo steamer, like the large ones in Asian markets.
- Dried spices: Diana prefers whole spices, which you then crush as needed. You can find packages of everything from whole cloves to anatto seeds at La Superior in the produce department, near the dried chiles.
La Superior: 4940 Stockton Blvd., 451-7259; 2210 Northgate, 929-7095
La Esperanza: 5044 Franklin Blvd., 455-0215
Vinh Phat: 6105 Stockton Blvd., 424-8613
Nugget Market: 1040 Florin Rd., 395-2875; 2000 Town Center Plaza, West Sac., 375-8700
Roseville Tortilla Factory: 313 Riverside Ave., Roseville, 783-3311

Comments
Very well written post and I appreciate all of the info on where you shopped for her. It sounds like you had a grand time.
Posted by: Melly | June 18, 2008 1:04 PM
I am sooooo jealous! What a fun sounding class and what excellent ingredients to pick up!
Posted by: Garrett | June 18, 2008 5:22 PM
I read Diana's book when it came out in 1989, and I never saw a more extensive and thorough presentation of my favorite cuisine--not the Taco Bell version prevalent here in the States. I for one, think that she and my mama would have gotten along magnificamente!
Posted by: La Traductora | June 19, 2008 8:41 PM