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Paul Martin's American Bistro Opens

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From guest poster Paul Somerhausen of Sacramento Epicureans:
Nestled behind the mega movieplex on Eureka Road in Roseville, is a new row of faux Mediterranean town homes that appear to be urban dwellings but are actually several trendy new businesses. One of these is Paul Martin’s American Bistro. They generously extended an invitation to check out their new place during their soft opening and here is what transpired during my lunch visit.

The name of the establishment is not in honor of the last Prime Minister of Canada but is in actuality the main financier Paul Martin Fleming, most famous for his PF Chang's outlets. While Mr. Fleming brought his money and resources to this project, the idea was born with Brian Bennett and Peter Serantoni. They envisioned a place where the food was truly fresh, homemade, organic, locally grown, and from sustainable farms where possible. And to enforce the point, they even make their own ice creams and infuse their vodkas in their kitchen among many other interesting touches. This restaurant is the first of what the staff promised to be many more, the second already slated to open in LA in the near future.

When you arrive at the brightly colored “town homes,” you don't suspect what awaits you inside the place. Once the doors open, a very large open room spreads deep and wide to showcase a warm and welcoming casual chic environment. It is decorated with at least a dozen shades of wood, brick wall accents, soft brown leather booths, wide soft comfortable chairs, a long elegant bar, and seven large spherical lamps with a type of flame motif. The hostess booth was manned by half a dozen staff, which I was told later was due to the fact that everyone was in to practice one last time before the real grand opening on Monday, October 29. We got seated and felt immediately welcomed by the warmth of the staff and comfort of the place. Our server, Shayleen, was very friendly and knowledgeable and introduced us to the restaurant, highlighting the philosophy and recommending several dishes. We started the meal with a Butcher’s Board, which featured some coppa salami, a separate orange and fennel infused salami (the salumi here is primarily from Oakland-based Boccalone, owned by "Next Iron Chef" competitor Chris Cosentino), thinly sliced prosciutto, aged gouda, some Laura Chenel goat cheese (also marinated with some fennel seed), and finally some Point Reyes blue cheese. It was served on a wood board with stone-ground mustard, capers, and olives. I particularly loved the orange salami, salty with a tangy finish and a sweet undertone of licorice flavor. The blue cheese was fantastic, soft in texture and strong in flavor. The only selection I did not care for was the goat cheese, which was too soft in flavor and was completely overwhelmed by the other powerful choices. Also, this dish did not come with any crackers or bread, which I thought was odd. Some warm flatbread would have complemented this perfectly.

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For the main courses, we got the Salmon on a Cedar Plank, which was served cooked to the temperature you desired, which I thought was a nice touch, and on an oval plate smothered in caramelized shallots and bacon, sautéed spinach, and a crimini mushroom jus. The generous serving of salmon was cooked perfectly, with a soft accent of the wood; the spinach on top was still crisp and not overcooked, and the flavors of the shallots and bacon added a very nice accent to the dish. The other course that we shared was the Mushroom Burger. This is a vegetarian dish, where the patty is made out of crimini, portobello, and shiitake mushrooms, then blended with some Dijon mustard and cream. This is served inside a crispy toasted bun and accompanied by a pesto aioli and onion marmalade. While it is hard to eat because it falls apart easily, your first bite is a pleasant surprise, where the mushrooms and aioli blend perfectly into a delicious meat alternative. The other highlight of this dish were the French fries that accompany it. They are amazing! Crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, the thinly cut fry is then coated in a garlic salt and rosemary mix that ensured not one fry was left on the plate. I also used the pesto aioli to dip them in and I am still salivating at the memory…

Finally for dessert we choose the Banana Cream Pie. While the presentation is very nice, this was the least impressive part of the meal. The flaky crust is coated in a thick chocolate layer that is not breakable and when I tried to cut a piece of the pie with my dessert spoon, the tip of the pie went flying off the table due to the pressure I had to apply to cut it. Thankfully I did not hit anyone! The slice was also mostly whipped cream and not enough custard and banana. While we did not dislike this dessert, it was the only underwhelming part of our meal.

I left the restaurant very encouraged. All the staff was friendly and knowledgeable, very eager to help, and seemed genuinely proud and happy to be there. I am happy to see that there are serious money and resources put into a place that sets their focus on organic, sustainable, and locally grown foods and not compromising in décor or service. With prices that range between $8 and $19 for lunch and $11 and $30 for dinner and with a fun wine list full of artisan and unusual winemakers and a comfortable upscale feel, I predict that they will do very well. If only they were closer to downtown so I could go there more often….

Paul Martin's American Bistro
1455 Eureka Road, Suite 100
Roseville
916-783-3600

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Comments

Very nice review Paulie.

Grr. After reading all the reviews, I'm so peeved about my car breaking down and not being able to go. Glad to hear it was such a great experience. I look forward to going.

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