Are you tired of cooking yet this holiday season? When I've had it with washing dishes and going to the grocery store every day, the first thing I want for take-out is a burrito. When I lived in San Francisco, I was always within a block of a great Mission-style (enormous and wrapped in foil) burrito. They came packed with your choice of rice, meat, beans, salsa, and any number of condiments. It's taken me a while to find that kind of burrito in Sacramento though.

Sure, there are some very good and more traditional burritos to be found here, but I always seem to want that comfort food of the overstuffed and juicy burrito. Greasy is better and don't skimp on the spice. So I was really happy lately to find two great resources for my fix.

The first is La Fiesta on Alhambra Boulevard, which has the closest to the Mission-style burrito I've found here. I especially like their al pastor (barbecued pork). They have awesome aguas frescas too (horchata, cantaloupe, limon). I'm also pretty fond of Juan in a Million on the far reaches of Broadway (around 58th), but it's a bit far from my house for those last-minute lunches.

The other great resource is the Burritophile site. You can find listings and reviews for burrito joints all across the country, posted by burrito freaks galore. Look up your city of choice and find a list with average review score or click on the map feature for a layout of places to go. They've got Sacramento,
Davis (only 7 places though), and virtually every other town or city you can name. There are even listings (okay, only 1 for each) in Kansas, West Virginia, and Vermont!

So don't be deprived any longer, and don't just stick to the closest place in your neighborhood. You never know when you might find a travel-worthy burrito in the least likely place.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 9:28 AM | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBacks (0)

'Tis the season to eat gingerbread--and build it into picturesque buildings dripping with sugar icicles and candy roof tiles.

Today and tomorrow, you can see Gingerbread Holidays in Old Sac, a display of handmade gingerbread houses at the Old Sacramento Schoolhouse Museum (Front and L Sts.). The display is open for viewing from 1 to 4 both days. (Free; 916-558-3912)

Or, you might want to bake up some gingerbread that you can eat. The recipe that my family has made for more than 30 years comes from Betty Crocker's Picture Cookbook (1956 edition). With the retro title of "Gingerbread Boys: Make Holidays Gayer Than Ever" (no wonder there were no gingerbread girls!), this makes a chewy-soft gingerbread cookie rather than a crisp one. We've been known to decorate ours as ballerinas, dolphins, and clowns. So gather up a bunch of cookie cutters, powdered sugar for icing (plus food coloring), and some small clean paintbrushes reserved only for food. Kids especially like this project. You just have to keep them from eating all the dough before it gets baked. My tip? Double the batch so there's enough to give, keep, and eat. Happy holidays!

Gingerbread Boys
from Betty Crocker's Picture Cookbook

Makes about 12 large "boys" (or many smaller)

1/3 cup vegetable shortening (I use the trans fat--free Crisco)
1 cup packed golden brown sugar
1 1/2 cups mollases
2/3 cup water
7cups all-purpose flour (that's about 1 3/4 pounds)
2teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Powdered sugar
Milk or water
Food coloring
Chocolate chips, dried fruit, colored sugar, sprinkles, etc., for decor

1. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or with an electric mixer, beat the shortening, sugar, and molasses until combined.

2. Stir in the water on low speed.

3. Sift together the flour, baking soda, salt, and spices and add gradually to the batter on low speed, just until combined. Divide the dough into 3 or 4 pieces and wrap in plastic wrap or waxed paper. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to a couple of days.

4. When you're ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Assemble your cookie cutters and and lightly grease baking sheets or line them with parchment paper. Roll out one package of dough at a time on a lightly floured work surface or between layers of waxed paper to about 1/4 inch thick. Cut out cookies and place them at least 3/4 inch apart on the baking sheets. (Or, if you're Betty Crocker, "Grease a cardboard gingerbread boy pattern, place on the dough, and cut around it with a sharp knife.") Press raisins, chocolate chips, or other non-sugar decorations into the dough as desired. Bake until puffy and just starting to brown around the edges, 10 to 12 minutes.

5. Use a spatula to move the cookies to wire racks to cool completely. When cool, decorate them using icing made of powdered sugar, a few drop of water or milk, and food coloring. Use sprinkles, colored sugar, mini chips, and other decorations to finish the cookies. Let them dry, then store in an airtight tin or wrap cookies individually for gifts.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 9:51 AM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

Sorry! We've been a bit busy baking cookies. But we haven't been too busy to eat!

The section of Broadway in Oak Park around 35th Street has been getting spiffed up over the last couple of years. The improvements spearheaded by Kevin Johnson (formerly of the Kings) include upgrading the beautiful theater there, the addition of a bookstore and gallery, and the arrival of Starbucks to the neighborhood. The recently opened Bicycle Kitchen is just up the street. The Sacramento Philharmonic has offices there too, and a friend who works for them went with me to Broadway Soul Food, which we'd been wanting to try for a while.

The tiny restaurant is just past a hubcab place and next to a bail bonds storefront. They're only open Thursday through Sunday, but serve lunch and dinner. Growing up a sort-of Southerner (southern Delaware), and that stint in college in North Carolina, has made me into a Southern food fanatic. And even though I avoid fried foods most of the time (onion rings excluded, see Jamie's review), I eagerly bellied up for a plate of the restaurant's highly recommended fried chicken. Note: they recommend you call ahead, because they fry it to order, which takes 20 minutes.

We headed over at noon on a Thursday and sat at one of the 5 or 6 tables covered in red and white check tablecloths. The atmosphere is very casual, with colorful paper menus, but the ubiquitous fllat-screen TV occupies one big wall in back (thankfully it was off). We ordered the fried chicken ($8.95) and smothered pork chops ($10.95)--special that day--but had to wait a bit since we couldn't get through on the phone earlier to pre-order. Each entree came with two side dishes. We chose yams, red beans and rice, macaroni and cheese, and greens. They were out of the last two, so we subbed in another red beans and some cabbage. String beans, corn, and potato salad are also offered. Other entrees include smothered steak, meat loaf, ox tails, and beef short ribs (all $8.95 to $10.95). On Fridays, you can get chitterlings, fresh catch of the day, and barbecued chicken or ribs; Sundays they have turkey with dressing.

All the tables filled up shortly after we arrived and the lone waiter said he was new at his job, but very friendly and apologetic when he forgot things. Our entrees came with cornbread muffins, which were disappointingly sweet and probably from a box. It's hard to come by a good cornbread in a restaurant these days. But the chicken and pork chops were both tender, juicy, and hot. The chicken had a mysteriously yummy flavor that we finally figured out was bacon (or pork) fat. The skin was very crispy and well browned and we got three pieces. The two chops were smothered in an oniony gravy that was a bit starchy, but flavorful. Sadly, the sides weren't fantastic--the yams were a bit too sweet, the red beans a bit too brothy. The cabbage wasn't too limp though, so that was nice.

There was more than enough food for the price and I took home a leftover chop and some sides. (The chop didn't do very well reheated, but its flavor held well.) On the way out we saw signs at the front counter for cakes and pies, although none were displayed. The cook we spoke to said she had an orange juice cake and usually had sweet potato pie and something with coconut. I'd definitely be interested in trying dessert there, since those all sounded tasty. The peach cobbler listed on the menu is apparently made with canned peaches though, since that's what the customers prefer.

So Broadway Soul Food has lots of food for the price and some of it is quite good. It's definitely worth a visit for some specialties that you don't often find in restaurants anymore--especially the fried-to-order chicken. They could cut back on the sugar in the sides in my opinion, but I know that's fairly traditional in Southern food too. Maybe that's the sort-of Northerner in me coming out?

Broadway Soul Food
3515 Broadway
916-453-8990
Thu-Sat: 11 to 8
Sun: 11 to 6

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 9:50 AM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

If you missed out on the offer earlier this week for free olive oil from Alejandro & Martin, try the link again. See the original post here.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 9:23 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Have you heard of the Small Planet Fund? Being that it is the time of giving and thanks, I feel it is important to let you know that they are now in the throes of an online fundraising event that will not only enable you to bid but win on wonderful prizes. It also gives your the opportunity to give back to a group that is doing so much for our planet, local traditions, and mankind. Founded by authors Anna Lappé and Frances Moore Lappé (Hope's Edge: The Next Diet for a Small Planet), the Fund supports courageous movements bringing to life on-the-ground, citizen-led solutions to hunger, poverty, and environmental devastation around the world. The volunteer-run Fund raises money from individual donations, book sales, and fundraising events.The auction started on the 5th and runs through the 15th so don't delay in getting a holiday gift for someone special--one that really does make a difference! Here is a link to their current auction.....Small Planet Fund Online Auction

Posted by Jennifer Cliff at 8:59 AM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

Local food blogger Elise Bauer of Simply Recipes referred her friend Alejandro to us to help him GIVE AWAY 800 bottles of olive oil. Yep, a holiday present for you or someone else and all you have to do is pay the shipping. Now this isn't a local food item, but we thought you might like the opportunity to sample a selection of four oils that you can taste against each other. (And Alejandro did used to live in San Francisco, so he was semi-local.) The boxes that Alejandro is giving away contain four 100-milliliter bottles: 1 each from Italy, Spain, Greece, and California (Central Coast). They have different flavor profiles, such as grassy, fruity, or peppery. This is a neat chance to learn more about the differences in olive oils.

Their site says, "We take great pains to baby these oils on their journey from their origins to your kitchen. We fanatically protect our oils from heat and light--two major threats to the quality of extra-virgin olive oils--and we never sell to stores for fear that our product will not be treated with sufficient care."

So go to the special Alejandro & Martin page that's been set up for you lucky readers and click away. (Each person is limited to 10 boxes, so don't get too greedy.) And while you're there, look at the Olive Oil of the Month Club and other oils that you can try. Perfect ideas for holiday gifts!

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 2:15 PM | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBacks (0)

This is a bit different from my usual "Have You Tried" posts. This isn't a single product or menu item, but a whole store!

What: Sacramento Beekeeping Supplies

Why: Not just for beekeepers, this cool store, painted on the front to look like a honeycomb, has a great supply of local honey and other bee-related goodies. You can fine many different varieties of local honey: in jars, a creamed variety, and bulk. There are multiple colors of beeswax for rolling into candles (a great gift idea), Burt's Bees products, books, bee pins, and molded beeswax candles. You can also buy bee propolis and pollen for help with allergies and skin rashes. I like to take a jar of local honey and a wooden honey dipper to friends as a host present. And my family members always get long straws full of honey as stocking stuffers. Of course, if you are into beekeeping or think you want to be, this is the place to go for information.

Where: 2110 X Street, 451-2337

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 10:11 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)

Roxy is the newest restaurant venture of Ron and Terry Gilliland whom also own Lucca. I actually have had the pleasure of dining at Roxy twice this week, once at the “test” dinner on Saturday evening and then again on Tuesday when my brother in law was in town and I actually had an answer to the on going question of “where should we eat?” Jason (brother in law) actually works with Ron in the cattle business and was eager to try Roxy as he knew that the beef was going to be top notch. And it was! Roxy currently serves certified natural Angus prime beef out of Nebraska; however, he will be sourcing locally from Lucky Dog Ranch in the near future. Actually, a good portion of his menu is sourced local which is always refreshing to see. The restaurant interior is a lovely, all be it unlikely, combination of “western meets modern”. Perhaps it is the new “east meets west”. There is music from the likes of Johnny Cash and George Strait lightly playing in the background and the two large banquets in the middle of the room are covered in rawhide. The large wooden back bar is an antique that Ron found in St. Louis, and is a perfect match to the beautiful chandelier that presides over the room. There is no question that there is a country influence, but there is also an elegance and a simplicity at Roxy that dusts off any lack of sophistication and places you right in the midst of a “fine dining” room.

Saturday Night....

Starter: BBQ chicken flatbread with cilantro and grilled onions
Entrees: Jason: Rib-eye with cheddar cheese mashed potatoes
Husband: Flat Iron Gaucho steak with enchiladas
Me: Lobster Raviolis with a meyer lemon cream sauce
Desserts: Chocolate Trio, Smores cake (literally layered like a smores with a marshmallow meringue top and graham cracker crust and dark chocolate center, and a Dr. Pepper cup cake with a dark chocolate frosting and candied walnuts.

Every element of the meal pleased me, the timing was on, our server was knowledgeable given the newness of the restaurant and the menu was diverse, fresh and innovative without any pretense. Most impressive of all was that the kitchen kicked out steaks that were fired to perfection, a talent that eludes many restaurants who have been around for years. I highly recommend Roxy for a date with your family, loved one, or a solo night out for a great steak! As always, please let me know your thoughts once you’ve dined there.

2381 Fair Oaks Blvd
(916) 489-2000

Posted by Jennifer Cliff at 4:38 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

I joined the Sacramento Epicurians group recently, just in time for their 3rd anniversary Morrocan dinner. The Epicurians is a loose group of people (over 250 belong), who meet once a month to eat at a local restaurant and socialize. This past Friday, 61 people gathered for a meal at Marrakech restaurant, just off of Arden Way.

We were all seated in the back room, which is decorated to look like a large North African tent, complete with flocked wallpaper and decorative hangings. The small, round tables skirted the room, with seating on upholstered stools, poofy beanbag-like seats, and a banquette along the wall. People on the beanbags had the best angle in relation to the table. The rest of us were rather hunched over.

The group leader had arranged a multi-course meal that was eaten almost entirely with your hands, in the traditional way. Waiters in colorful baggy trousers and pointed-toe shoes came around with warm water, which they poured out of a brass pitcher while we held our hands over a tureen to catch the water. We had fluffy hand towels to use, although I felt a bit odd using mine as a napkin too. I kept trying not to get it dirty, which is difficult when you're eating with your fingers!

The meal began with small bowls of thick and brothy harira (lentil soup). Then each table got a large salad platter, including an eggplant spread, lightly pickled carrots and green beans, cubed potatoes, a fresh tomato salsa-like salad, and crusty bread to sop up the flavorful oil. Then the dish we had been waiting for arrived: Pastilla Classique (This traditional savory pastry is made with a layer of shredded chicken topped with eggs and a lemony onion sauce, and then dusted with sweetened almonds. The whole is enclosed in tissue-thin pastry called warka
and topped by a layer of cinnamon and sugar.) It was so hot that we burned our fingers in our haste to gobble it up. Delicious! (For a homemade version of this dish, also spelled Bistilla or B'stilla, click here. The photo above shows how the top of the pastry looks when decorated.)

As if this were not already enough, the main courses (each served family-style) began to arrive:

• Chicken M'rouzia (prepared with onion, cinnamon, nutmeg and honey)
  
• Roasted Lamb with Honey
  
• Beef Shish Kabob, standing upright in a large onion half
  
• a whole, small Chicken with Preserved Lemon and Olives
  
• Vegetarian Couscous (fine semolina grains steamed and
  piled on a large platter, with vegetable stew heaped on top)
  

The couscous did come with large spoons. We figured that real Moroccans probably eat this, too, with their fingers, but the chef wanted us to actually get some of the couscous in our mouths instead of on the floor.

Somewhere in the midst of this gluttony, music began to blare and a belly dancer undulated her way into the room. She gave an impressive performance, then encouraged people to come onto the floor, where she tried to teach them how to wiggle their stuffed stomachs. Pretty funny, indeed, although some epicurians were rather successful.

The final treat was a Morrocan pastry like baklava, made of thin layers of phyllo dough stuffed with almond paste. The traditional hot, sweet, mint tea came in glasses poured dramatically by the waiters and finished off the meal.

It seems these days like I'm always pining for more vegetables in my meal, but everything we tasted was well prepared and presented (although I did find the nautically themed plates a bit odd. Going out of business sale at Long John Silver's?). It's a great dining experience for a group, and kids will especially like the part where you eat with your hands and sit on the floor.

Marrakech Moroccan Restaurant
1833 Fulton Avenue at Arden Way
916-486-1944

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 2:45 PM | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBacks (0)

Hands Off: 30 minutes

A classic bistilla is made with layers of phyllo dough encasing a fragrantly spiced meat mixture—often pigeon. You might also find whole hard-boiled eggs inside, and the top is always dusted with confectioners’ sugar and cinnamon. Since phyllo can be hard to work with, I have substituted frozen puff pastry here. This meat pie makes a very dramatic presentation, perfect for a dinner party or holiday. It is a sweet/savory balancing act that pairs well with a semi-dry white wine like Riesling.

Serves 6

1/2 cup (2 ounces) whole almonds, toasted
3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar, divided
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, divided
3 large eggs
1 pound ground turkey
1 cup diced onion
2/3 cup raisins
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon ground ginger
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
Pinch of saffron threads
One 17.3-ounce package puff pastry, thawed in the refrigerator

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. In a food processor, combine the almonds, 2 tablespoons of the sugar, and 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon. Pulse a few times so that there are still chunks of almonds for crunchiness.

3. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until blended. Take out 1 tablespoon of the eggs and put it in a small dish; set aside. To the remaining eggs, add the turkey, onion, raisins, cilantro, garlic, lemon juice, ginger, salt, pepper, coriander, and saffron. Mix thoroughly to distribute the spices without squashing the meat.

4. Unfold 1 piece of pastry, place it on the prepared pan, and roll it lightly with a rolling pin to smooth the seams. Be careful not to compress the edges. Spread 1/4 cup of the almond mixture over the center of the pastry, then top with half of the turkey mixture. Form the turkey into a log about 3 1/2 inches wide, leaving at 1-inch border at either end of the pastry. Fold 1 long side of the pastry over the turkey. Moisten the other long side with the reserved egg, then fold the other half of the pastry over and press it to seal against the moistened edge. Moisten the ends and press them together as well. Use the parchment to roll the packet, seam-side down, toward one end of the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining ingredients, making another packet and rolling it to sit at least 2 inches from the other one.

5. Use the tip of a knife to poke 3 holes in the top of each pastry. Bake the bistilla for 30 minutes, until they are puffed and brown. Combine the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar and 1 teaspoon cinnamon and sift them over the top of the rolls. Present the whole rolls and then cut each one in thirds to serve.

Posted by Ann Martin Rolke at 2:39 PM | Permalink